Possible New Owner of 1010

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Possible New Owner of 1010

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:30 am

Hey guys. I may be picking up a diesel 1010 dozer and was wondering what I should know and what to be concerned with prior to purchase. Anything weird about these machines?
The one I'm looking at hasn't run for years but ran and pushed great when it was parked according to the current owner.
I went out and looked at it this past weekend but we were unable to get it started. The diesel was rank so we drained the tank and what we could out of the pump and filters. Installed new diesel and new battery. It spun over well but wouldn't even fart. The glow plugs are getting power but I don't know if they are actually working. Didn't have any ether but tried some flammable brake clean and got some signs of life and a little smoke but that's it.
I'm going back out there with some ether and try again. I do know that ether is frowned upon but according to the owner (and the guy who owned it before him) that's how this particular machine has been started.

Overall, this machine looks pretty decent. The biggest thing that needs attention that I noticed is the left track pins and bushings--the bushings are worn clear through to the pins.
I'll post a few pics when I get home tonight.

Thanks in advance for any input.

User avatar
Tigerhaze
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 2291
Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 12:13 pm
Location: West-Central MO

Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:14 pm

Hi AC-

There are quite a number of discussion threads about the 1010s. These crawlers are not necessarily "weird", but they were the transition models between the 2-cylinder early "ag" style crawlers and the "new generation" industrial styled crawlers. Because of that, there is not as many of them out there than the 350 models which were essentially their successor.

You will find that hard parts for the diesel engines for 1010s are generally only available from Deere and fairly pricey. Some components of the undercarriage are no longer available new from any supplier, particularly the track links themselves. Parts like glow plugs are available aftermarket, and can be better than the OEM parts (e.g. the May Co. glow plugs from Deere are not as reliable as the Wellman glow plugs that Lavoy sells from this site).

It is most likely that the glow plugs are not working as using ether with them can cause severe damage. There are a lot of thread discussing how to test them. Ether is not good because on an indirect injected 1010 diesel they can damage your piston rings and precombustion chambers. It is possible that part of the reason it won't readily start is that extended ether use has impacted compression due to ring damage. You would be much better to rebuild the starter which will allow faster rotation of the engine and thus easier starting.

Pins and bushings can be replaced, but their aftermarket supply is sporadic and pricey. However there are no supply of new track links (rails) so if they are worn down you have to build up or find another used set. Lavoy (site admin) is a good source for pins and bushings.

I would guess another reason for hard/no starting is the injection pump itself. There is a thread from Jdemaris discussing how the DB pumps can go bad just from sitting without use. I would also check the fuel outlet from the tank and the vent as they can become clogged when fuel is disturbed within them (cleaning or emptying tanks).

One known issue on the 1010 and 2010 diesel engines is the seals for the deck sleeves. Over time cavitation can occur and poke holes in the sleeve or the sleeve seals get worn in their groove and can leak. This can cause antifreeze in the oil similar to a head gasket leak. The other issue is seals on the injection pump being worn allowing diesel to enter the oil pan. These are things you should look for when inspecting a 1010/2010.

There is a lot of good info on 1010s if you search for it on this site. Let us know if you have any more questions.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:46 pm

DO NOT USE ETHER!!!!! NOT on a 1010 or 2010
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:48 pm

Man, that's awesome info Tigerhaze! I'm beginning to think I may want to steer clear of this one.
The engine spins over good and fast--nothing wrong with the starter.
With everything you have told me, I'm betting this thing has suffered destroyed glow plugs and piston/chamber damage.
The oil was way over full--possibly diesel intrusion from the pump? I kinda think the pump wasn't working either. I pulled the input hose off at the filter and put my finger over the end while cranking and could not feel any draw.
This isn't looking good..... :(

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:53 pm

Some pics.

Image
Image
Image

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:55 pm

jtrichard wrote:DO NOT USE ETHER!!!!! NOT on a 1010 or 2010
Yeah, I get that now. Unfortunately, the current owner and the owner before him have been starting this thing that way for years. It's probably damaged.

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:59 pm

on the side of the pump there is a cover with 2 small screws pull that cover and see if the pump is turning when your cranking ...as for pan over full it is either diesel from the pump seals or water from the sleeve seals or froze /split block was there any anti freeze in it?
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:01 pm

ether in very small amounts can be used i have used it in my 2010 very little and later rebuilt it with no damage
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:04 pm

what kinda money we talking? and what are your plans for its use?
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:07 pm

jtrichard wrote:on the side of the pump there is a cover with 2 small screws pull that cover and see if the pump is turning when your cranking ...as for pan over full it is either diesel from the pump seals or water from the sleeve seals or froze /split block was there any anti freeze in it?
Thanks for the pump info.

Yes, it has nice green anti-freeze.

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:11 pm

jtrichard wrote:what kinda money we talking? and what are your plans for its use?
I can pick it up for $1000.00.

Just personal use on about 13 acres of steep terrain. Road maintenance and bringing firewood out every so often, and just general tinkering with it. :)

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 9:15 pm

probably worth getting if it dont work out you should run it across a scale and get your money back about 4 ton there....i would part out as much as i could before i did that thought
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

ACcrazy
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:16 am
Location: Eureka, California

Post by ACcrazy » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:01 pm

I don't think I could ever bring myself to scrap an old machine. I just don't have the heart to do that. :(

User avatar
DukeofDeere
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 437
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:12 am
Location: Hudsonville Michigan

Post by DukeofDeere » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:05 pm

6 way blade like that is worth more than 1K alone!

Duke

User avatar
jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1888
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:13 pm

i would not either unless it was parted out till there was no usable parts left i HATE to see some of the things i have seen go across a scale it makes me sick sometimes :( :shock: :x
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests