Possible New Owner of 1010

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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gregjo1948
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Post by gregjo1948 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:11 am

Working glow plugs are a must. You also should have a fuel primer located on the dash which is needed for these hard starting 1010/2010 diesels also. I hold my glow plugs on for 2-3 minutes, 2 pumps with the primer, and start cranking. If it doesn't start firing in 5-6 revolutions I give it a very light mist of starting fluid while it is cranking over. So far I don't believe I've damaged anything. When it fires up, it sputters and smokes for a few minutes, then smoothes out,clears up and runs great. This proceedure is for colder weather starts and in the summer a minute on plugs and one prime works. At working temp., none of this foreplay is needed. I can't see how you can get hurt at $1000.00. gregjo1948
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Fri Feb 21, 2014 8:15 am

Hi,

Glow plugs are resistors, so checking them is easy with an ohmmeter. Just pull the power lead off and measure the resistance between the power terminal and ground.

Now, what it ought to read, I don't know as that varies by plug make and type. Dozens of ohms to a couple hundred, I would expect. However, they fail open, so that would read in the millions of ohms, and then you know to stick a fork in it, because it is done! ;)

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside manual blade
Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside manual blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Also Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

ACcrazy
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Post by ACcrazy » Fri Feb 21, 2014 11:14 am

I really appreciate all your input guys, it's great. :D

Fortunately the owner has a service manual and parts manual so should be able to find specs for the glow plugs.

Where is the VIN tag located? I looked around when I was there but didn't come up with anything. I'd like to figure out what year this thing is.

whiteclipse16
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Post by whiteclipse16 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 11:52 am

Good luck AC. The guys are right, I'd love to have that 6-way blade. Lot of good parts there that I could use on our 1010.
It sounds like there's a good chance the injector pump is bad, same thing that happened to ours.
You should pull the drain plug on the oil pan and see if it's antifreeze or diesel in there. If it's antifreeze you will be looking at a min. of $1000 to rebuild her. New deck is $700 then all the other seals and misc. parts.

One thing that's odd, are the grousers that worn or are those street pads for a loader, it's hard to tell.
Ben

Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Fri Feb 21, 2014 11:58 am

I would go for it; you really can't get hurt price-wise unless you have significant loading and transport costs.

I would not get overly concerned about the ether issue; I used it sparingly in the past before I learned what damage it can cause and before my starter was rebuilt and new glow plugs installed. However I do avoid using it now as if your glow plugs work and you use ether, you can wreck it.

As for glow plugs (and I know that Stan is a Electrical Engineer so I am in no way contradicting what he says), but I know in the past Jdemaris mentioned that a simple resistance test doesn't always catch a bad glow plug and that you really need to test amp draw right when they are engaged. Feel free to read through his thread on that. To be honest with a machine this old and cheap where glow plugs clearly didn't work I would just order new Wellman glowplugs from Lavoy and be done with it- they are not too bad price wise.

You may or may not have a primer pump; my 2010 did not but I have since bought one. There are a number of discussion thread about that.

I'd like to look at the undercarriage- I can't see the sprockets too well and the front idlers look worn. However the grousers though worn or a triple bar loader pad (it looks to me to be grousers) wouldn't be too hard on turf areas and there is still a lot of travel on the adjuster so you either have good pins and bushings or they took a link out of each side. You may want to count how many links you have and let us know. The rock guards and sprocket shields are still there which is nice.

I am not positive about 1010s, but on 2010s the serial number plate is either on the right side of the engine block (or the left side bellhousing just behind the engine, although I don't think that is the case on a 1010). It could be the engine was switched out and it is no longer there, but not having it is not a big obstacle to getting correct parts.
Last edited by Tigerhaze on Fri Feb 21, 2014 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

ACcrazy
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Post by ACcrazy » Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:54 pm

Right on guys!

I believe the the tracks are street pads--originally. Someone has welded on some square stock to act as small grousers.

I'll get some more detailed pics when I go back out there. :)

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:46 pm

Hi,

If the glow plug is closed when cold, but opens when it heats up, then you need to watch the current. Otherwise, the current draw will be relative to the resistance.

Not that it really any more difficult to stick your meter probes on the feed wire and the plug tip than it is to stick them between the plug tip and the block.

Just make sure to pull your hot probe from the Volts Ohms Milliamps socket and stick it into the high current socket on the meter. Failure to do that will result in at least a blown fuse inside the meter (or sometimes a cooked meter).....

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside manual blade
Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside manual blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Also Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Fri Feb 21, 2014 3:00 pm

it is a very early 1010 60/61 it has the injector lines that go over the rocker cover.... as Tiger said the ser# is/was on the right side of the engine block kinda below the gen. and forward of the oil filter ...if gone there is a flat spot with 4 small holes for the pins that held it on and con-caved in between the pin holes and yes those are street pads that have had a bar welded to the center... i would say it is quite possible that it is one link short on each side as you said the bushings are wore through but front idler is not that far forward
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Fri Feb 21, 2014 3:52 pm

I forgot that AC mentioned that a bushing was worn through, so yeah the tracks are probably short a link which also explains why the sprocket teeth looked a little sharp to me and the front idler wear. Even so, from what I could see the links themselves looked like they still had a little bit of meat left and the loader pads still had the bars. My loader pads are almost flat at this point,

In any case, a dozer with loader pads isn't nearly as bad on the crawler or on the turf as a loader with grousers.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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JD40c
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Post by JD40c » Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:37 am

If you really want a 1010 and have storage space, buy this one and consider using it for parts when you find another 1010. Might be able to put a good one together for cheap.

$1k is pretty cheap for that much machine.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller

ACcrazy
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Post by ACcrazy » Sat Mar 15, 2014 3:16 pm

Well, I rode my dual-sport bike down and paid for the machine. :) It still doesn't run but it'll get pushed onto the truck via small excavator. A friend is going to transport it for me. He works for a tool and equipment rental place and said when he delivers a machine down by where mine is he'll bring it back.
I found where the ID tag is supposed to be and found exactly what jtrichard said I'd find.
I counted the track plates and came up with 36.
There's a number on the transmission case--it's 13922--if that makes a difference with anything.
Took a couple pics of the sprockets--will upload shortly.

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gregjo1948
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Post by gregjo1948 » Sat Mar 15, 2014 4:55 pm

If you're not going to buy it, where's it at? I'd be interested if it's not too far away. gregjo1948
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford

ACcrazy
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Post by ACcrazy » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:12 am

I did buy it. :)

Here's a few random pics. I took one of the other sprocket too I thought but it looks just like this one.

Image
Image
Image

ACcrazy
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Post by ACcrazy » Tue Apr 08, 2014 8:35 am

Finally got 'er home.

Image
Image
Image

I tried to get it lit but no dice. I could get it to act like it wanted to take off on starting fluid but it just wouldn't go.
Gonna try bleeding the fuel system and see what that gets me.

Can the fuel pump go bad from sitting?

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:44 am

yes fuel can go bad takes a long time unlike gas and DONT use starting fluid
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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