58, 420 update

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Sat May 17, 2014 8:12 am

good morning to you all, hope you all are well.
I haven't been on for a while, between that work thing

and the crawler I have been pretty busy.

the left and right side rollerframe, crossmember cap bolts, frame bolts and roller bolts are all done. grade 8 w/nylocks, and antisieze.

I am now officially a pro with the hot wrench, you were correct Lavoy, they would never have moved without it. did not snap one.

hydraulic pump, broken bolts, and leaks, fixed.

I am now in the process of cutting out the 1/4" plates some bonehead welded over the 14" snow pad openings.

right side is almost ready to re-hang track.

I have been reading up on the adjusting process in section 145 (steering lever free travel & brake band adjustment.
not quite sure on the part that says, engage wrench on throw out bearing cap screw, I am assuming that means loosen.
with steering lever against stop, slide throw out bearing outward to contact clutch fingers, I am assuming that means so the bolt will slide in that channel on the throw out bearing housing, and am I suppose to do that with my hand? and hold it in that position while I measure the lever free travel? I am probably making it harder that it is, but don't want to mess up

as with the brake band adjustment, the brake band adjusting nut is kinda rusty, and wont budge

is there a socket for that, or maybe someone has fabbed one, the biggest flat tip I have wont move that funky nut.
any and all input is greatly appreciated guys, thanks again, you are awesome!

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Wed May 21, 2014 4:14 pm

You may be past this point by now but since no one has answered, I will. You need a 1/2" socket on about 15+inches of extension. Tape the socket onto the extension and, if you use more than one extension, tape the sections together. Sure beats trying to fish out a socket! Loosen the TO setscrew (1/2" socket on bolt - short threads - not too much) and, using the extension and the bung hole for leverage, push the TO until it contacts the fingers. Finger-tighten the bolt. Now pull the clutch handle out to the free travel distance and no more. GENTLY return the handle home and tighten the bolt without sliding the TO bearing. Recheck free travel. Alternatively, you can hold the clutch handle at the free travel distance while you tighten the bolt with your free hand.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed May 21, 2014 7:46 pm

Soak the brake adjusting nut with some penetrant, I have had it work on a couple occasions. If you use a small brazing tip in an acetylene torch, you can sometimes get some heat on the nut and get it to loosen up.
No special tool, just a flat blade screwdriver and lots of swear words.

Lavoy

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Sun Aug 30, 2015 4:54 pm

hello to all, it's been a while.
my crawler is at the property in Idaho, i have been playing, when I am there.
she runs like a top, thank you to all of you for your help.
Lavoy, I am still working on the brake band adjuster nut's, I might just pull it apart and have them re-lined, then I can soak those buggers rite.
I do have a question on the hydraulic leak that I cant seem to get completely stopped.
it was originally flowing heavy out of the single remote control valve discharge line, brass nut, reservoir opening. I removed the control valve, split the base, the snap ring was broken, and someone put a new style black o-ring on top of the original cork seal, installed new cork seal, snap ring, re-assembled control valve, noticed that the control valve bracket hole was not lined up with reservoir very good, bracket bent back to line up correctly. re-installed control valve. it is hard to feel when tite is not too tite when you are titening that brass nut with a huge open/box 1"1/8 wrench

anyhow... it leaks a lot less! any suggestions on my next trick to make it stop? thank you in advance,i could have never come this far without this site anfd you guys

btw Lavoy, I spent the summer on my uncle Arlis Hubers farm in Hannover N.D. when I was 14, harrowing corn on an "A" Johnny popper. good times

lot's of family in N.D. you live in a great state.
thanks again. Shanon.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:23 pm

If you are still considering re-lining your brake bands, I recently found that pulling my final drive took more time to worry about than to actually remove. This would also give you good access to the brake band adjuster - pull one cotter pin and the retaining pin and the brake band will slide out of the housing.
Take a look at this thread and my pictures to get an idea of what's involved. I relined the brake bands myself ( page 2). Not very difficult and from your other comments, well within your skill set. Good luck. Paul

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... hp?t=10160

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 3:58 pm

Thanks Paul,
I really appreciate the tip, im all over it😉
Do you have any advice on the hyd leak issue?
Im thinking about pulling the valve again & running a bead of silicone around the base where the tube comes out, then some pipe dope on the tank threads, for that brass nut. The problem is, i cant see where its leaking from, one, or both😁

Thanks again,
Shanon.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 5:45 pm

Sorry, no opinion on your hydraulic leak - I have one of my own to figure out on the valve body. I have had good luck with Teflon tape and boiler goop on the tapered threaded connections at the cylinders.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Aug 31, 2015 6:52 pm

Should be no need for anything on the tank nut, just make sure the sleeve is in there and not bad shape. There should be an o-ring between the flare on the tube and the bottom casting of the valve, and when assembled, it should put pressure on there enough so it does not leak. Check to see that the tube is not bent, the flare is good shape, and/or o-ring in correct position.
Lavoy

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:21 am

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 11:07 am

Maybe go to a larger section o-ring in the same diameter?
Lavoy

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 1:22 pm

Ok, i understand where your going with that.
The cork o-ring is from Pape' machinery, J.D. Industrial
Parts supply. I will order another one, match it to the next size up cat o-ring, fatter that is. I will also try to find the next size up cork o-ring.
Gettn pretty good @ R&R, eventually ill git er😉
Thanks Lavoy

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 8:25 pm

Stack them would be another option. If the flare on the end of the return tube is relaxed any, it may not put the proper pressure on the o-ring.
Lavoy

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Wed Sep 02, 2015 6:48 am

Thanks Lavoy,
Keep those good ideas coming, im going to try them all until it stops leaking completely.

theshanmand1! · Post by **theshanmand1!** » Sat May 28, 2016 7:57 pm

hello to all, its been a while.

Lavoy,
I stacked the single remote pickup tube cork O-rings,
no more leaky leaky! you are the man!

she pushed 2' of frozen snow in feb. @ the cabin like it wasn't even there!
next project is the turning brakes.

thanks again for all of your help, you guys are the best!

Lavoy, Stan, Paul, Duke, Possum,

Sincerely, Shanon.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon May 30, 2016 1:02 am

Glad to help.
Lavoy

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