jd2010 pre 42000 clutch etc...gas

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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dtoots1
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jd2010 pre 42000 clutch etc...gas

Post by dtoots1 » Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:56 pm

i am back into it..!!!
ready to pull engine out to look at this clutch. pulled inspection plate and inside is clean....no critters....no debris....no shavings....and very little powders that u would expect from a bad clutch....

only thing i can think is maybe clutch was never set properly with the gauge.

what do i need to look for before i actually pull it apart??? don't know if can see the clutch facings without some disassembly.

still waiting on word about the specs on the gauge...was not able to get ahold of the fella up in oregon yet who said he had an extra. will try again once i find out just what this critter looks like inside.

by the way the clutch gauge for engine is that the same gauge for the steering clutches??

thanks for all help
dtoots1

dtoots1
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re..2010 gas ..clutch....engine is now out

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:05 pm

have the engine out on this thing now..

throwout bearing wiggles a bit so that will be replaced....

looking at clutch on engine appears there is about 1/4 inch of clutch disc ..see a bit of rust at edge of disc...some black grime....a bit of wear on the pressure fingers but cannot tell much else.

dont suppose any measurements will tell be anything on this..

sent couple pics to jt maybe he can tell something from the photos..

have not figured out all the photo options on this site.

thanks
dtoots1

dtoots1
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350 crawler
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2010 gas pressure plate info

Post by dtoots1 » Fri Nov 07, 2014 2:38 pm

o.k. now i mite begin to see the problem....

looks to me like they have changed the clutch....it now has a pressure plate that only has 3 mounting legs and does not have the full circle mounting plate.

book says that beginning with serial number 45952 they only incorporate 3 mounting pads....and that the gauge must be modified by removing 5/8 inch off the center pad off both ends of center and 1 end is removed at an angle to 5/8 inch off the center flat surface. the other end has 5/8 inch removed with only 0.156 inch removed from the original flat center. this will allow the gauge then to rest on the flywheel to adjust the fingers..

i can only assume that this pressure plate will work even tho is for a later series...original probably NLA.

and thanks a million to Ralph in Oregon i now have a loaner gauge and can make my own and modify for this set up. so now i have to make the modified one just hope this works. would've helped had book shown specs on the gauge
tho am measuring this one...no machine shop so all hand work.
so now can only hope one of u guys have gotten into this and can advise any problems.....taking an inch and a quarter off that center section makes me wonder if it will reach across the two fingers for adjustment don't look like it leaves much there.

thanks
dtoots1

dtoots1
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re...clutch

Post by dtoots1 » Sat Nov 08, 2014 11:03 am

o.k. here is results from measurements of clutch with the gauge.
it appears that have used .275of thickness of clutch with .309 visible under the pressure plate. gauge set across 2 fingers and almost sets on the mount pad bolt heads of the three mount pads. i also have space under the clip to the locking nut on the pressure plate under the fingers that measure close to .150..
inchs. fingers are just a bit worn but have plenty left. throwout has a bit of wobble in it.

it kinda appears to me that the gauge is only really good for setting the NEW clutch disc since as disc wears the fingers move closer to the throwout bearing and this leaves pressure on the fingers and less tension/pressure exerting on the clutch disc. looks like that is where the free play adjustment helps to compensate. but it does not appears u can reset with the gauge back to the original settings....or am i wrong tis kinda difficult to picture entire scenario????

now LAVOY or anyone can you tell me from these numbers that the clutch disc needs to be replaced.....also what is the original disc thickness??

the story is when it was running before it froze up engine....there was trouble shifting from/to reverse etc...to do so had to shut down shift and then start up again, as would grind the gears. just as an aside while i had it running on the jacks we did shift from/to reverse and both tracks ran and stopped with the steering brakes. i then did adjustment on the free play moving from 1 1/2 inch back to 1 inch free play which is when i lost power to the tracks both reverse and forward. so anyhow since he claimed shifting problem decided to pull engine and cheek out the clutch throwout etc...

thanks guys
dtoots1

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun Nov 09, 2014 10:16 am

No clue on measurements, no real reference to compare. To me, measurements are only half the story, spring pressure, fatigue, corrosion are also a factor.
Yes, gauge can be used to set a used pressure plate. It will bring fingers back to spec, but will not compensate for weak springs, etc.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

dtoots1
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:54 am
Location: akron, ohio

re...clutch

Post by dtoots1 » Sun Nov 09, 2014 12:59 pm

was able to get a better position to check the fingers....put a hook on the pivot point and a 12 inch crescent wrench with a block of wood for leverage on each finger takes a pretty good bit of pressure but can move each easily so are not bound up with rust. clutch/pressure plate are fairly clean had black powders but could still see the metals.

looking at the throwout bearing mechs..pedal pushes bearing straight and linkage straight...however getting to the t/o yoke and moving it by hand it does move a bit catywampus so am wonder if the pivot pins in the linkage etc could be worn and causing binding. how tight are these pivot points supposed to be???? from the straight out position the lower leg of the yoke is able to move approx. 3/8 to 1/2 inch into towards the shaft like from 6:30 to 6:35. that is the 2 piece riveted connecting link from the foot pedal shaft to the yoke it has pins at both ends and i can see it shift

dtoots1
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re..throwout brg and carrier

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:23 pm

Lavoy......here is what i have found out.....first of all....the bearing for the upgrade in jd parts book actually is too small for the carrier....it measures 2.25 inside dia. the carrier measures 2.37 o.d.

ma deere wants almost $200 for the upgraded carrier...my local bearing dealer has supplier with list of both id and od......but literally orders them from someplace in Oregon.... sounds close to you shipping direct so i mite get info and let u all know where at.

has a very large list dimensions....onliest thing i dont know if has the groove for accepting the grease from the fittings...didn't catch it to look closely at store but seem to remember that they showed to be greased fitting carrier mount throwouts....will know more when i get the part....tis a bit more xpnsive but much cheaper than the carrier from ma d....and yes my carrier is the original old style couldve probly machined it down to size cheaper as is actually a step lip for the press fit...

thanks guys
dtoots1

dtoots1
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:54 am
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pre 42000 clutch grinding noise/gas engine w/constant mesh

Post by dtoots1 » Mon Dec 01, 2014 1:03 pm

well i am back again!

engine back in after clutch adjust and new throwout bearing...looked at all linkage and everything appears to be o.k. moves good and straight...adjusted free play to 1inch.

engine running fine....however when try to move clutch in a bit gets a squeal or grinding noise....cant identify as hearing gone too....put in reverse and do not get any movement at all.....noise does stop after clutch in or out all the way.

any ideas out there....looks like pull engine again.....cant try to move it forward as in garage and close to bench and wall.

by the way the throwout brg. i got does fit the old carrier....was ordered from up in Oregon thru my local bearing dealer, as Lavoy NOR maDeere can get that particular bearing for the old carrier....cost was almost $80...but the new type carrier was almost $200 from dear old Madeere.

anyone else has that problem i wonder if getting old carrier machined down to fit the new bearing is feasible.

thanks
dtoots1

dtoots1
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:54 am
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up and moving

Post by dtoots1 » Mon Dec 15, 2014 1:23 pm

well fellers looks like we got the dozer going again!!!! sure has been a learning experience.....hats off and many thanks to jt richard for his conscientious help and consideration and all the rest who have contributed including all the helpful explanations and suggestions posted thru out the site!!!!

here is what i found out was going on with it.....the free play lock nut was pretty well rusted so i oiled er up....seems a bit too well as it kept backing off every time u applied the clutch pedal ended up back to 2 inches of free play and would not work like that......readjusted several times and did it again....last time i put pretty darn good pressure on lock nut while holding the adjustment bolt and now she works..

will be glad to get er out of my garage so can have some room to work on truck tranny....automatic and front and rear seals leaking so have more work...dont we all need that???????

anyhoooo thanks for all....

dtoots1

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