help once again

[ronnk]

It has been a while since I have posted. there was a couple health issues that are now handled and it time to take care of the health issues with my little green girl. She has not been started for a year and prior to that did have existing starting issues. It is a 420c sn 80808 4 roller donot know the blade brand but it is a beefy sucker. Now here is where we stand:

It has been coverted to 12V with a generator and ballast resister. I have 12V to the battery side of the distributer and using the screw driver test she sparks across the points. The points were gapped to 24 thou. When I try to check for spark at the plugs there is none. Now to the gas side.

I have drained glass bowl, pulled the plug on the carberator and drained bowl, there seems to bee plenty of flow, put gas dryer in the gas tank.

When we turn her over it will flood if choke is left out and if ether is sprayed into the carb she will not even let out a bark.

Question since it is 12V does she need different points, cap and roter, we put in new plugs a year ago. I know this starting stuff is beating a dead horse but I am truely confused.

Ron

[jtrichard]

pics and a wiring diagram would help a lot ......if you have 12 volt to the dist someting wong should only be about 6v

[ronnk]

Sorry about the delay but I only get to work on her once a week if time allows and weather cooperates. I am trying to get her started so we can move into the garage and have longer bonding moments.
So I took the lid off and found a surprise. They had added a 12V coil that says no external resister required. Then why would they wire an external in line with the on switch and the coil? I would like to wire direct to the coil and not use the external resister. Am I correct?? Could this be the problem??

Ron

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Yup. If the coil has an internal resistor, and you add an external one, no spark. Pull out the external one and try again.

They flood oh-so-easy. The sequence is to pull the starter, let it turn over a couple revs, then pull the choke. As soon as it pops, push the choke half way back in. Err on the side of leaning it out rather than be too rich. They flood oh-so-easy.....

Stan

[ronnk]

First thank you Stan for the help SHE IS ALIVE

As suggested i removed the extra resistor and for now wired the two ends together ( she has had to many architects designing her wiring we wiil have to fix this). We then had spark but she still would not start. I checked the plugs and they were dry even when the carb was flooded. So dipping back inthe archives of youth we had a MC first and later a 420 that we had to place our hand over the carb inlet and crank the motor over and fire in the hole. I did the same here and fire in the hole. Could some explain this, there is plenty of vacumm when the hand cover up is performed to get gas to the cylinders??

Next The infamous drive test. I live in the northwest rain forest we get 12 feet of rain a year and the little girl had been in that weather for a year. Put her in reverse away we go pull a steering lever and still going straight. My heart fell on top of the tranny. but finally the clutch packs did break loose. So I put down my conveyer belting in the garage and she now parked there for serios bonding. So the second question has any one sprayed break clean down on the clutch pack to try and clean them in place??

Next the air adjustment jet on the carb had to be screwed in almost all the way to level out the idle. Is this normal??. It does not seem right.

Thanks
Ron

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Hmmmm. Choke not enough to start, but hand helps. Idle air screw all the way in. Sounds like an air leak after the carb.

Stan

[ronnk]

back again

I have to agree it is getting air from somewhere. If I spray carb cleaner or WD40 around the intake and that is the location the crack or bad gasket, the idle should raise?? right

Ron

[original possum]

Believe it or not, you can get enough air leakage around the throttle butterfly shaft to give you these symptoms. You should replace the shaft, packing, plug (cap?), and bushings, although replacing the shaft and the packing (with retainer) may get you by. Replacing the bushings requires a reamer.

[yellowcrawler]

I had similar carburetor problem because I had not sealed around the venturi properly when I rebuilt the carburetor. It sucked air through the vent. Sealed the venturi with non hardening Permatex which solved the problem.