Help with 2010

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Help with 2010

Post by treefort » Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:50 am

Hello all,

My 2010 crawler bogged out and stalled the last time I used it plowing snow. It then started back up and was bogging a bit, i upped the rpms a bit then it was better but then bogged out and died shortly after. And now it's sitting in my driveway and will not start. At least one of the glow plugs is faulty so I've been using starting fluid without glowplugs. I know now after reading this forum that its a big no no to use starting fluid as it could do damage, so will get the glowplugs fixed after getting it running again.

Soo, when I try to start it with starting fluid it cranks but doesn't sound like it is combusting at all. Just makes a low pitched bogging sound. Even if it was out of diesel, it should still start to run or combust a little from the starting fluid, right? I also took apart the air filter, and the oil bath looks like cooking lard(White sludge). Could this be the problem? Sorry for my ignorance, I have never worked on one before. Should I clean the sludge and fill it with engine oil? What oil should I use as I don't know what oil is currently in the engine? I've been reading my manual and looking over the forums, but would like to hear from you experts what I could be looking at in order to get this crawler up and running again. Afterwards I will fix up the glowplugs, do some greasing, etc. now that I kind of know what to do. I was at first thinking maybe it was bad fuel, or an air lock in the fuel lines, but since it doesn't even sound like it's combusting at all with starting fluid, I'm leaning towards not enough air.

Can you guys please give me some ideas where to look?

Just an FYI: I have a coolant heater, and a fresh fully charged battery, so it does crank over pretty fast.

Thank you very much. Any questions, let me know and I will get the answers for you.

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jtrichard
350 crawler
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:26 pm

YES clean the oil bath pan and fill with cheap 10/30 engine oil ( it has water in it now thats why its white) .... as for not running do you have fuel flow to the pump? and WELCOME TO OUR PLAY HOUSE :D :D
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:26 pm

Thanks for the welcome and advice Richard. I will check for fuel at the pump and clean the oil bath when I get home, then reply back with my results :)

Thanks again!

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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1883
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:50 pm

You need to put your location in your profile ...plowing snow hummm im guessing not Florida, Texas or So.Calif. :) :)
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Mon Nov 24, 2014 4:10 pm

He he you are right. I am in Northern British Columbia. Lots of snow here!

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:22 pm

It is a little strange that it won't pop off a little on starting fluid so looking at air flow is a good step. I believe the original engine oil was a diesel rated 10W-30 but many use diesel rated 15W-40 with no issues.

A few extra tips- even though it might sound like it is cranking fast I have found that a worn starter can make all the difference in the world for starting, especially cold starting. That may be something to consider if you suspect compression is low during starting. As you noted, glow plugs are critical for 2010s but another tip is the HLR disconnect lever at the floorboard near your left foot (assuming you have the HLR transmission). It disconnects the transmission from the engine and will allow it to crank much faster. You just pull up the lever until it locks (unlock and release soon after starting).

Let us know if you see any difference after that.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:38 pm

Hi guys, sorry for the late response. I emptied the fuel tank today then filled it up with fresh fuel, and put in some winter diesel conditioner in case of water or gelling. I then cleaned the oil bath and bled the fuel line up to the pump. After that, I tried starting and almost ran
A few more tries and it stayed running. I forgot to mention in my first post that I didn't have much fuel in the tank(I could see some in there but maybe an inch from the bottom). Do you guys think that maybe I didn't have enough head pressure? Or is that not an issue? Either way, if it was bad fuel, lack if air making it through the oil bath, an air lock in the fuel line, it seems good now.

Patrick, I noticed in one of your other posts you mentioned ac delco alternators that fit on the 2010s. Can you get them from Napa? Are they pretty cheap and good quality? Easy to swap over(don't need a different pulley)? My generator isn't working, and I don't really feel like troubleshooting/fixing it and/or the regulator if I can get a new built in regulator alternator for cheap from Napa!

Thanks guys again for your help. I will be back asking for more of your hard earned knowledge I'm sure.

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Tue Nov 25, 2014 11:59 pm

Oh, and I will definitely try the HLR disconnect the next time I start it, and reply back with the results :D

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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:14 am

look at pic #2 and you can see how nice a delco 10si fits http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=7806 you can also get this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1801D-ALTERNATO ... be&vxp=mtr here is napa # http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0059299902 i will post pics of the brackets i built tomorrow
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Wed Nov 26, 2014 8:39 am

Awesome, thanks Patrick.

I see that one of my glow plug wires is broken right at the glow plug. Do I have to get a new plug? It is broken so that it's flush with the cylinder. I'll try to take a pic of it after work today and upload it here.

My fuel pre filter(the glass one) is leaking through the top seal too so I am going to have to look for a new flat o-ring in town here. Pain in the butt that thing is! Once I get it fully sealed I'm going to try not to touch it again until I really have to!

Thanks!

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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1883
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
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Post by jtrichard » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:15 am

here is what you need oops that one was for gas looking for diesel one now and who is Patrick? good luck Richard :D :D
Last edited by jtrichard on Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:21 am

Oh shoot! Sorry Richard! I don't know why I keep thinking your name is Patrick. I got it down now though. Thanks Richard. You are the man.

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:46 am

I ordered one from the local John Deere shop here for $10 and it'll be here tomorrow. Costs a little more but overnight is pretty good. Thanks again for the support

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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
Posts: 1883
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:48 pm
Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:21 pm

hope you got the one for diesel i had the one for gas above there also is a screen that goes in that filter if you want to put it in assuming there is not one in it now... have you changed the 2 canister filters yet? those early ones are almost impossible to stop leaking that is why on mine i went with the case 480c spin-on filter setup (see my dozer pics)works out GREAT :D :D
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

treefort
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:15 pm
Location: Northern British Columbia

Post by treefort » Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:30 pm

Hi Richard, I just called to confirm and it is for a diesel thankfully. Believe it or not, the screen is still in there and in fairly good shape. I have not replaced the 2 filters yet, and was kind of hoping to delay that until next summer. As long as I have flow through them they should be good, no?

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