Jd 40c steering problem
Jd 40c steering problem
Hello
I got my first crawler
But when I drive straight foreword ... And pull the left steering leveler ...
The crawler will not turn ...
There are only 3 jd crawlers in Sweden and no one to ask what to do ...
Can any one help me ?
I got my first crawler
But when I drive straight foreword ... And pull the left steering leveler ...
The crawler will not turn ...
There are only 3 jd crawlers in Sweden and no one to ask what to do ...
Can any one help me ?
40c steering
if you are at all mechanically inclinated, you should take the inspection plug out and look in the hole with a good light, compare what is happening in the one that doesnt steer with the one that does steer, probably an adjustment needed??
your dozer
sounds like the right hand final drive needs adjustment what happens when you pull the right hand lever? if it turns right then left hand final is ok.....
1957 420C four roll since 1982
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
- Location: Shiner, texas
You do not say, but I assume it will only turn to the right, which means the left side clutch is not disengaging. The first thing to check is adjustment. Pull the drum bung at your left leg's calf (when sitting in the seat). Adjust the throwout bearing so that it is just barely not touching the clutch fingers when the handle is not pulled. Then try to drive it. Does the engine load up when the left lever is pulled all the way back even though it does not turn? If so, then the clutch is probably stuck - they do that is not used. You can tie the left handle back (not so far that he brake engages and the engine loads) and operate for awhile with backing up to turn left. With any luck the clutch will come free. If not, you will need to break the left track at the master pin and remove the final drive housing and then service the clutch. If you do not have a service manual then get one.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
IF the crawler stops when you pull the left lever then the LEFT clutch is fine (assuming that it turns right) and the RIGHT clutch is slipping....IF when you pull the left lever and it keeps going straight forward then the left clutch is froze/rusted up....another way to see if a steering clutch is slipping is push against (ASSUMING IT HAS A BLADE) that wont move and see if both tracks spin.....
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Are you familiar with crawler drives? They are different than tractors. No differentials, so they have to use a clutch pack on each side to remove power, then brake to halt the track.
There are two fairly common issues we tend to have with these.
Issue one is when a clutch pack will not release due to rust. Meaning they are stuck, so power is always applied. The brake will not work with power still passing thru the stuck clutch. You will keep on going straight in this case.
Issue two is when the brake is not working. If the clutch releases power, and the brake does not work, you go mostly straight but drift slowly since the track has a small amount of drag against the ground.
The stick-the-blade-against-a-big-tree trick is a good one to check clutch releasing on each side. If a clutch releases, the track stops, even if the brake is not working properly. Easy enough.
There are a series of steps to get the release of the clutch and the application of the brake correct. This does require the original Deere service manual. We don't have that data on the site as it is copyrighted by Deere, but they do still sell the manuals, so you can get one easily enough.
Stan
Are you familiar with crawler drives? They are different than tractors. No differentials, so they have to use a clutch pack on each side to remove power, then brake to halt the track.
There are two fairly common issues we tend to have with these.
Issue one is when a clutch pack will not release due to rust. Meaning they are stuck, so power is always applied. The brake will not work with power still passing thru the stuck clutch. You will keep on going straight in this case.
Issue two is when the brake is not working. If the clutch releases power, and the brake does not work, you go mostly straight but drift slowly since the track has a small amount of drag against the ground.
The stick-the-blade-against-a-big-tree trick is a good one to check clutch releasing on each side. If a clutch releases, the track stops, even if the brake is not working properly. Easy enough.
There are a series of steps to get the release of the clutch and the application of the brake correct. This does require the original Deere service manual. We don't have that data on the site as it is copyrighted by Deere, but they do still sell the manuals, so you can get one easily enough.
Stan
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