2010 diesel starter issue

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 6:09 am

Now that the weather has turned colder I have a problem with the starter on the 2010 diesel loader--sometimes the Bendix does not engage and grinds. I thought with the solenoid setup that the electric to the starter could not come on until the Bendix was engaged. How can I check this and is there anything I can do other than replacing the solenoid? Thanks

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:29 am

I can't directly answer your question about in-frame testing, but are you sure the Bendix isn't engaging? Is it possible instead that some of the teeth on your flywheel are chewed up and when you happen to stop on that spot when you restart it is grinding? I guess that may not be the issue if this only happened once it got colder.

I personally would pull the starter out so it could be bench tested and then you could see whether it is truly a Bendix issue or not, and that would also allow you to observe the flywheel teeth for wear. It is not all that difficult to remove (other than the lower bolt) but is heavy.

It may be wise to have a rebuild anyhow if you are having solenoid problems. Usually the starter windings and brushes themselves are also pretty worn. You will also find that if the starter is fairly old that having a rebuild will make a BIG difference in starting a 2010 diesel. Ask me how I know

whiteclipse16 · Post by **whiteclipse16** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:32 am

When you hit your start button/ turn the key the electric energizes the solenoid. When the solenoid energizes/ pulls in, it provides all the power the battery has directly to the starter, this makes the starter spin. When the starter spins it causes the bendix to move (in or out depending on the starter) and engage the flywheel.
There are multiple possibilities to your problem:
1: Weak battery - due to the cold the battery is weaker, thus not spinning the starter fast enough to engage the bendix fully.
2: Bad battery cables - bad cables or connections will lead to the starter not getting the full power from the battery, thus making the starter spin slower
3: Bad solenoid - terminals inside the solenoid could be worn, not letting the full power of the battery to pass to the starter.
4: Bad Starter Armature and/or brushes
5: Bendix shaft dirty/gummy - will cause the bendix to not slide freely
6: Bad gear on the bendix
7: Bad spot in the flywheel.

The most likely issue is 6 or 7 and the fact that it's cold making your battery weaker has made the issue more prominent.

I'd check your battery and connections first. Then as Tiger said, pull the starter off. Good luck.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:45 am

Good point Ben- I had neglected the battery/battery cable angle but with the colder weather that is a potentially significant issue. One thing about batteries- when testing them it is best to load test them rather than a simple voltage test. I have found many batteries that appear good for voltage when checked with a multimeter at rest but that fail when checked with a load tester. Load testers can run the range of costs, but I know that Harbor Freight has a relatively inexpensive one that can be found on sale as low as $20.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 12:22 pm

Hi,

My load tester is a digital meter with a Min/Max recording mode. Hook to battery terminals and run the starter. Then, hook to starter lug and test again. Nine volts under load is the line. Above that, OK, below that need to address an issue.

This way, I know what shape the battery is in and also the cables and connections.

I bet there is sticky old lube on the starter shaft which gets thicker when cold coupled with a loss of power from the battery. Both tend to occur as the temperature drops.....

Stan

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:15 pm

THE DELCO starter drive IS pushed into the flywheel ring gear by the solenoid BUT it is spring loaded see pic here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Drive-9 ... e0&vxp=mtr if there is not enough angle on the teeth on the ring gear or the drive teeth OR the starter shaft is dry and gummy then it will power the starter without the drive meshed in the ring gear ./.. i would pull the starter do a tune up on it ( new drive, brushes, bushings ,especially the center bushing)

vailvalley59 · Post by **vailvalley59** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:54 pm

Thanks for the info--I have had the starter off several times early on in the rebuild--I am correct that it cannot be removed unless the fuel filters are taken off first?? The solenoid was filled with some sort of fine sand and the gasket was in bad shape--will take it off again and check the angle on the end of small pinion gear. Some where I read that the gasket thickness on the solenoid could be a factor in this problem. Was the web address you sent me for the correct Bendix ?? My starter has the number of Delco 1107863 on it. thanks again--by the way the 820 loader took eight gallons of oil to fill it up.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:42 pm

just a pic of a drive probably NOT the right one ..just to show the spring.......if you have early 2010 YES filters have to come not sure on late.. that is one of the reasons a put a 580 case filter on my 2010

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 10:29 am

Yes, the filter housing has to be moved but the filters may not have to be disconnected. At least on my 2010 loader (mine is early (pre-42,000)serial number) I was able to unbolt the housing and move the filter housing just high enough out o0f the way to not disconnect the lines or filters themselves.

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