Side frame removal?

[Paul J]

Machine is a 420C. Trying to remove the bearing quills behind the steering clutches. Need seals replaced for sure, and possibly bearings also. Quills are stuck tight - looks like I'll have to remove the side frames so the inner clutch/ final drive housings can be removed.

Will I have to remove the 62 dozer blade and framework before removing the side frames? Nothing in the service manual concerning the blade (that I have found).

Thanks,
Paul J.

[gregjo1948]

Not sure on a 420. On my 1010, I can remove the final drive housing by rotating it to clear. I use a chain fall and a come along to slide it out and then rotate. I use a rod that I made to insert into 2 of the housing holes to lift and slide out with the chain fall. Then I attach the come along to the chain fall chain to rotate in order to clear. It's easier than I made it sound. gregjo1948

[vtjoe]

with my 420 I have never removed side frames for final drive service...
just as gregjo said I bent a piece of 3/8 rod into a vee shape with two one inch long stubs bent 90 degrees to fit into top two hole of the final and with proper support from above just side out and turn... be careful they are heavy

[Lavoy]

Take the rear trans cover off if you have not. Lube the quill on the clutch side with a good penetrant. Tap on the inside of the quill from the ring gear side, and often you can slowly work it out of the trans and clutch housing.
Lavoy

[Paul J]

Thanks to all for the advice. I have every part out of the inside of the FD housings, with just the bowl shaped housings still attached to the sides of the rear end.

I have the rear cover off, and have tried tapping from the inside, but so far no movement.

It's doped up pretty good with what looks like that old hard Permatex that used to be used on everything. I gave it a good dose of penetrant a couple of days ago, and I'll give it more for good measure.

Thanks again to all.

[mapaduke@yahoo.com]

If its that stuck than the best way would be to get the clutch housing off. You should be able to get the side frame off with the dozer frame on, all though it would be easier with out it there. Be sure to support the weight of the engine and center section be for you loosen any of the bolts and with a pry bar work it off the rubber cross member pads then work it forward off the clutch housing should only need to move it forward a few inches.

[Paul J]

I've kept it wet for about a week with a mixture of ATF/Acetone. Tapped it as hard as I dare - don't want to destroy the housings. I think it's time to try a torch to soften the Permatex, or whatever the hardened sealer is. Don't like using a torch after running flammable liquids all over everything, but I'm running out of ideas. I wondered about cribbing up under the nose and taking the four bolts out of both sides of the side frames, then removing the whole transaxle. That is, if I don't burn the shop down with the torch first. Gonna go out and tap some more.

I enjoy problems - had several frozen pins in the clutch assemblies and had to cut the rods to get them out. Got them all welded back and looking like new, so I'm not losing 100% of the battles.

[Paul J]

Got 'em both off! Left one was about an hour of tapping. Right one was a bugger - finally got it off after about 5 hours of tapping, twisting and threading - used Lavoy's trick of threading a couple of the flange holes. Hope I didn't ruin the quills. Bearings and races were pitted - haven't found a good bearing yet. And of course the seals were stiff and useless.

[Col_CCC]

Good job. Dont you love fixing old things sometimes.

Chris

[Paul J]

Thanks Chris - yeah, it's coming along, just painfully slow.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Everything about a crawler is slow. It is why we call em crawlers!

Stan

[Col_CCC]

Ya, with a 40c and a 420c (not to mention a few old tractors) I know things are slow sometimes.

Chris