420 with loader clutch and brake pedal common shaft

BobinIowa · Post by **BobinIowa** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 5:21 pm

This is my first question on this board although I recently found the forum and have been lurking in the weeds for a few weeks now. You folks seem to know what you are talking about so here is my problelm. We have a 420 with a 90 loader. I understand that the clutch and brake pedals share a common shaft and the clutch pedal should move independently of the brake pedal. These appear to be seized together. I understand that this is a common problem on these machines. With the application of some heat I can get the clutch to grudgingly move independent of the brake as long as I keep the brake pedal chained back. Even with lots of liquid wrench as soon as they cool off we are back to a semi seized up condition. I drove the pin out holding the brake pedal to the shaft and got it loose on the shaft. I also unbolted the clutch pedal and took the linkages loose on that side. I can get the shaft to slide to the clutch side about an eighth to a quarter inch but it seems to come up against something internally. I confess I'm an ameture at this but can I get any input as to what I'm up against here? I could use a diagram or schematic of that assembly if somebody could point me in that direction also. Sorry this got so long but any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.

Bob

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:51 pm

heat it up good and squirt ATF on it while moving it as much as you can you may have to repeat a few times to work the rust out

Bobcaterdon · Post by **Bobcaterdon** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:54 pm

Hi I have the same problem but I am not sure were you are able to apply the heat outside of the housing can you heat it inside the housing
thanks Don

BobinIowa · Post by **BobinIowa** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 5:42 am

I guess I'll try to repin the brake pedal to the shaft and try using ATF and heat and working back and forth. Can anybody tell me how far the bushing on the clutch pedal goes into the housing? I'm guessing that I'll have to apply the heat on the clutch pedal side. Thanks again for the replies.

Bob

JimAnderson · Post by **JimAnderson** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:56 am

Bob,
The clutch pedal bushing extends about four inches into the housing.
It cannot be removed from the out side.You might get lucky and free up the two pedals with heat and liquid wrench.If these don't work then
you will have split the trans and torque tube to get at the parts that are locked together.Yes this is a common problem and with luck you might get the pedals to work like they should.Luck,JimAnderson

bobnmag2 · Post by **bobnmag2** » Sat Apr 04, 2015 9:26 pm

I have the same problem with my 440 crawler. Mine were frozen together so I used wd40 and another similar penetrating oil, then I used a hammer and steel chisel and separated the two pieces that were on the same shaft. I then sat on the crawler,and pulled it back and forth until it finally moved with out to much effort. I had to keep adding penetrating il to keep it from tightening up again Now it is almost back to normal but I still have the problem of it not working properly. Others on my message board say my clutch unit inside is frozen and that I will have to drop the tracks ,etc and take it out and take it apart. I don't think I can do the job because of no experience, not enough money, and the crawler is out on a vacant lot several miles from a shop. Also Are there mechanics still around that know how to fix it? Hopefully you can loosen yours and be on your way Hope this helps you Keep in touch

DrLoch · Post by **DrLoch** » Sun Apr 05, 2015 6:33 am

jtrichard wrote:heat it up good and squirt ATF on it while moving it as much as you can you may have to repeat a few times to work the rust out

FWIW I mix acetone and ATF 50/50 for a penetrating oil. works better than anything I've ever bought.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:26 am

DrLoch wrote:
jtrichard wrote:heat it up good and squirt ATF on it while moving it as much as you can you may have to repeat a few times to work the rust out
FWIW I mix acetone and ATF 50/50 for a penetrating oil. works better than anything I've ever bought.

Hi,

That works quite well. Not quite as well as the long-gone Kendall CML. That had a small amount of nitric acid in it which really cut thru the rust. A racing buddy gave me some Mopar stuff which also works better. But, Acetone and ATF is certainly easier to get (and probably much cheaper).

The only drawback I find is one can't keep it in an oil can. It has to be in a sealed container or the acetone evaporates pretty quickly.

Stan

BobinIowa · Post by **BobinIowa** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:57 pm

I finally got back to working on the 420 today. I took everybodys suggestions here and with several sessions of heating followed by ATF we got the pedals to move independently. If anybody else is going to try this, I would suggest unhooking all the clutch and brake linkages first. In my case that also entailed removing the skid plate underneath and the footboards as well. This will give you a lot more throw on both pedals for working them against one another. The crawler belongs to my 77 year old father who had his clutch pedal knee replaced this past winter. To say that he is happy is an understatement. Many thanks to everybody that offered suggestions here I don't think I would have got it without you guys.

Thanks Again

Bob

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 4:59 pm

Glad to hear you got it... ATF works wonders....... im not familiar with 420 you might look at drilling and installing zerts in any of the pivots you can get to

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420 with loader clutch and brake pedal common shaft

420 with loader clutch and brake pedal common shaft

Pedals

Got it freed up finally!!!

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