Case 580 drive train parts sources?

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Jack-the-Ripper
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Case 580 drive train parts sources?

Post by Jack-the-Ripper » Mon Mar 28, 2016 12:37 pm

I have the trans-axle removed and will need to replace a couple of transmission gears. I suspect I may also need some shuttle parts as well. Anyone know of any good sources of new or used transmission parts for Case Backhoe-Loaders?
JD450C (Jack the Ripper), JD450B (Jill the Wench), KomatsuPC120 (Ursa, The Big Dipper), Case580E (Ida Hoe), International 4400 Dump Truck

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Mar 28, 2016 1:08 pm

his is the only one i know of on the west coast http://www.experiencedtractorparts.com/

also search Ebay and allofcraigslist/adhuntr
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Post by Lavoy » Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:07 pm

I can get some new aftermarket parts most likely.
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yellowcrawler
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Post by yellowcrawler » Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:42 pm

I have a Case 580D backhoe and I used Tractorstuff in Indiana a few years ago, he has a lot of used parts. Was an excellent person to work with. website www.e-backhoeparts.com
1960 440 ICD with 602 blade
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1960 440 ICD with 831 bucket, center throttle

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Jack-the-Ripper
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Case 580 Parts

Post by Jack-the-Ripper » Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:30 pm

Thanks all for the suggestions. I may still need them.

After the usual searches I ended up accessing the Case national site after selecting a local dealer in Sacramento. You get exploded views of all parts with availability and prices. So far I've bought mostly seals, 4 brake disks, and a 1-2 gear, none of which yield well to reuse. The transaxle reassembly is going surprisingly well however I didn't find the broken gear or floating piece of metal I had suspected of locking up my drive train. I fear I'll have to disassemble the shuttle (automatic forward-reverse transmission) next, but I'm also intending to stop a bunch of leaks so I'll probably pull the engine-shuttle next.

Its a lot of work but this 80s vintage backhoe should be as good as new in a lot of ways for the rest of my uses for it.
JD450C (Jack the Ripper), JD450B (Jill the Wench), KomatsuPC120 (Ursa, The Big Dipper), Case580E (Ida Hoe), International 4400 Dump Truck

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Apr 18, 2016 12:11 am

You never said what had happened ..........Broken belleville spring in the shuttle allows it to try to be in forward and reverse at the same-time....... I have had this happen on mine before

http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-580C-L ... rtdiagrams ......... ITEM 12 ........

Also I believe when i rebuild mine Chuck (experienced tractor sold us a kit for 350 dozer ) (CASE) as they use ALL metallic clutch disc's where the 580c uses some fiber disc ....You can Check that out
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Jack-the-Ripper
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What Happened?

Post by Jack-the-Ripper » Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:24 pm

Good point.

Originally I had some incidents where either the drive train didn't engage, or it was locked up when placed in forward or reverse, and finally released with a loud clunk. I thought the transaxle dipstick looked frothy and assumed I had water in it. Due to a mental lapse I didn't realize that the shuttle and the gear box are separate and there was little chance of water getting to the latter. Also historically I've had incidents of "jerking while driving" that I often (wishfully) associated with being in 4wd while on pavement (as the lever tended to default to 4wd and I had taken to holding it in 2wd with a bungee). But it also jerked in 2wd occasionally so I began to think I had a free gear tooth floating around the transaxle, which led me to disassemble it.

There was no water, and no large bits of metal, but lots of gear tooth edge wear on 1st-2nd gear, which I have replaced. There was a metallic patina on the oil when the light angle was right. Obviously that 5 gallons of 90 wt. was replaced.

I did find the right brake both rusted and oily - clearly not working, as confirmed by the scary twist while backing off the tilt trailer and braking.

The left brake was dry but jammed with brake "dust." I carefully neutralized what I assumed was asbestos residue, cleaned the chamber and replaced all four discs on both sides.

The right side also houses the axle lock which is a splined cap that engages the ends of two concentric shafts with a small oil seal between. I had previously tried to fix the oily brake in the machine and with no reasonable way to extract the old seal I just drove the new one in over it.

As with the wrenches that fall into our dozer clutch/brake housings (I found 4 which proved not to be a record on this site) I found three seals between these shafts. (I had established reasonable assurance that my previously added seal was in fact riding on a smooth spot and not on the splines!).

With this complete rebuild I removed all the old seals an replaced them with one new one (which appeared very small and weak considering how important that seal is for reliable braking). Of course the shaft at the seal location is not perfectly polished so I wondered if it wouldn't have been wise to put two or three new ones back in. I needed the machine so I opted for just the one in had. (Man I hate these decisions.)

The transaxle went back in, not without a few nuisance incidents, but age and creative inspiration solved them all.

Another reason I was willing to remove the rear axle is that there are many many oil leaks on this 80s vintage machine, so much so that I cannot operate on sidewalks and driveways here in the city.

The engine/shuttle/hydraulic systems still leak profusely, as well as a leak in the inside of the tower that serves to hold the front bucket and to act as a reservoir for the 15 gallons of hydraulic fluid. JB Weld has not stopped it and it is really only accessible with the engine removed. So as time permits I will remove the engine/shuttle, fix all the leaks, and prophilacticaly disassemble and rebuild the shuttle hoping to find a broken washer or something more indicative of my symptoms (which should test my mechanical ability a bit more)(btw, thanks for that tip). I won't get to this for awhile because of other commitments for the tractor.

Note: I have to mention as a post script that there is a bizarre instruction in the $400+ Case Manual (actually a poor reproduction with its many photos almost unreadable): while disassembling the gear box you must create a spacer and place it between the gears of the input shaft. A section of a one inch steel pipe coupling properly cut was perfect (as it sits over the splined shaft). You then "push" (per the manual) the shaft, from within the axle/differential housing, through the gears and out the front (thankfully there was good instructions for removing a snap ring first). Of course we garage mechanics interpret "push" to mean "beat with a large hammer." No amount of large hammers would budge the shaft which was being extracted through its rear tapered roller bearing's inner race. It was so solid that I thought maybe it was time to remove my "wedge" (which carries the force through the gears to the front of the cast transaxle housing). Aha, some movement, and then, ugh, solid again. Inspection revealed that I had merely mashed to smithereens the bearing's rollers and cage into the large 4th gear; thus the requirement for the custom spacer. Of course the manual neglected to explain why I was using the spacer and what would happen if I didn't. Rhetorically, why do manuals always give cautionary instructions without explaining why, and what to do if you screw up?

Moving on, even after replacing the spacer, there was no way to get this shaft into a hydraulic press, and my little one-ton bottle jack wouldn't work horizontally (seems it has before, maybe the jacking piston needs to be on the bottom which wasn't possible here). What could I rent? I recalled having a small hydraulic ram with my electrician's hole punch set, which is built to pull, but maybe …. ? I found with a combination stack of bolts, washers, hex sockets, and the help of another pair of hands, and a lot of jiggling and false attempts, I was able to push the shaft out of the bearing. It was all now obvious, after it was done and the bearing already ruined.

As much as I hated to spend the money, I pressed out (banged) the outer race and replaced it along with the new set of rollers. It was clear I needed to bang in (oops "set") the new race before replacing the large gear and shaft with all the other gears, into the trans. With effort and more juggling/jiggling, I got the shaft and gears in, only to realize that I had forgotten to replace the rear bearing rollers, the same ones which needed the large gear removed before they could come out, and that I was going to remember. Fortunately this roller could be inserted into their race with all the input shaft gears in place. (Ya get to win some times, don't ya?)

Thanks for the inquiry, JT, and the heads up about the washer. Hopefully I'll find some positive cause for my drive problems. I'll report on the front half when I get into it.

Meanwhile there's still a little 450C with a left drive (wet clutch) that doesn't engage but does have a puddle of oil under that area. Since I have previously done an extensive rebuild on my 450B, there's not much pressure to get to that problem.
JD450C (Jack the Ripper), JD450B (Jill the Wench), KomatsuPC120 (Ursa, The Big Dipper), Case580E (Ida Hoe), International 4400 Dump Truck

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