Skidding with a JD440IC

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jd440
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Skidding with a JD440IC

Post by jd440 » Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:51 pm

Hi,

I have a couple of acres partially treed with Douglas Fir. They range in diameter from 1.5 to 3 feet and they are about 150 feet high. I am having several falled but I need a way to skid them. I am pulling them to an area where I can bring in a portable mill or load them onto a truck - to take it to the mill.

Can anyone recommend what I should use to pull the logs with my 440IC? I can use chain, cable (wire rope), rope or straps. I have no idea which to use or what size. Also, if I break them, will they snap and hit me? :!:

I have been using a grade 30 5/16" chain and breaking it constantly. There must be something better. :(

By the way, my 440IC does not have a winch, but it does have a front-end loader. :)

Thanks,

Derek

JimAnderson
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skidding logs

Post by JimAnderson » Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:59 pm

Derek,
Three foot diameter logs and a healthy 440 will kill any 5/16 chain.
A 3/8 grade 70 will stand up much better.If your skid distance is fairly
level and short you might try chaining up to the bucket ,lift the log then
skid in reverse.Dirty logs are a pain to saw and flat skidding gets a log
loaded with crud.
Wire rope,straps or rope stretch and will recoil with amazing and deadly force.With that said I saw my dad skid a log with his 420c and
3/8 chain.He snagged a stump and broke the chain which shot twenty
feet of it under the crawler.If you dont have a cage behind the operator's
station be very careful.
These little crawlers are great to log with but a winch and log arch
make them much more practical.I saw a lot of my own timber and
use the crawlers I have only in extreme conditions.When I can ,I get
my logs to my mill with a large rubber tired tractor.It's faster and
I get the logs completely off the ground in transit.
Do what you can to get at least one end of the log off the
ground .If that isn't practical then be prepared spend some quality
time with a pressure washer to clean the logs.Be safe,JimAnderson

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spooler
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skidding

Post by spooler » Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:23 pm

I skidded logs with a 3/8 inch chain hooked to the front of my bucket. When it broke it dang near killed me..refrain from that, watch the stumps or anything else that will catch and break the chain.

3 ft. dia. and 150 ft. is way to large for you at that size it will probably pull your tracks off the ground when trying to skid the whole tree from the loader

soooo

cut them shorter..how long do you REALLY need them? 8ft? 10 ft.? 16 ft?

weld a set-up on your bucket to work as a mounting point using removable pins for a set of forks and pick-up the now shorter logs
keeps em clean to.
I have this set-up on a 420 and easily pick 20' logs 1.5 ft. and load them on my trailer for a trip to the mill. btw I also have a ROPS cage and counter wieghts including a chain box with 60' of 3/8 chain..in 10' sections and one hook on each chain

you are doing something very dangerous THINK , GO SLOW and be careful! wear a hard hat, "dont work alone" and make sure the crummy is full of gas and starts easy

SAFETY FIRST!
chuck
willow, Alaska

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Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:24 am

I skid oak, walnut, and hedge with my 2010 with no major problems. I have been using 3/8" hardened chain and the only issue is losing the cotter pin out of the chain clevis pins over time. I cut the logs to 10+' or 20+' lengths as needed; I concur that skidding a tree longer than that would be too difficult due to the extra weight and ground resistance.

I also trim off branches as they cause a lot of extra resistance; this may not be feasible for your operation but would help.

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Post by Lavoy » Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:18 am

One thing to be aware of when buying log chains is the grade of chain you are buying. Unless it something very non-critical with zero chance of someone getting hurt, don't bother with "proof coil" chain. At the very least, buy "high test". We quite buying anything but high test or Peer 7 (grade 70) on the farm many years ago.
Lavoy

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jd440
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Post by jd440 » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:52 pm

Thank you gentlemen for all your suggestions.

I am planning to cut the trees down to 12' sections, so I can have them milled to 10 ft x 2" x 6" studs for my shop walls. I'll make sure the branches are removed first before skidding.

I have been looking for a logging arch, but I have found nothing small enough. I have found several large ones but they are too big to handle with the 440. The simplest solution, as suggested, may be to skid backwards as I have grab hooks already welded to the middle of the top of the bucket. However, I will have to be careful that the chain doesn't break and snap back at me.

Speaking of chains, I will probably go with a 3/8" Grade 70 (transport)chain with a working strength of 6600 pounds and a breaking strength of 26,600 pounds. I found some good prices at my local Western Star dealer.

It has been suggested that I use 3/8" 7x19 wire rope and that it will not snap back if broken. However, it only has a breaking strength of 12000 lbs, but it is much cheaper and lighter.

I will pick up the chain on Friday and try it out over the weekend. I will let you know how it goes.

I will remember your suggestions and I will keep the motto "Safety First" close at hand.

Derek

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Post by bigfoot390 » Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:40 pm

you might want to keep your eyes out for a surplus Cable reel trailer. I got my hands on one and it make a perfect logging arch for my 420. plus the fact that it has a built in Hydraulic lift in is a bonus.
bigfoot390
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Post by digitup » Thu Jan 25, 2007 4:54 pm

3/8 grade 70 chain is the chain to use Get 1 good grade 70 chain at least if you don't like surprises We cant use any thing less on our equipment. And they don't come back broken either .I have been installing link latches also as they keep the chain from coming apart when loose or a log rolls down hill Cables are also great Knob- Bell and Clevhook cables are best but price is a bit much unless you use them every day . always remember to pull as long a log as possible or keep it from digging in and catapulting as it may hit the crawler operater.We lost an older Deere operate when the but dug in and kicked the tail of the log on top of him siting on the back of the crawler . Digitup.

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jd440
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Post by jd440 » Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:03 pm

bigfoot390

Thanks for the suggestion. The cable reel trailer looks good as a logging arch. I'll have to keep an eye out for one.

digitup

What is a link latch? You lost me there. Thanks for the warning about the log kicking back.

Derek (jd440)

digitup
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Post by digitup » Sun Jan 28, 2007 3:00 pm

It is a piece of steel that locks the link hook on any one link of the chain and you have to press the hook pin to release the hook .I guess I could send a picture of one if you want.We have to use them on all of our floats on the equipment tie down chains now in Ontario.So I just grab one off the float when I go logging on the weekends with my old 40C .It and the 450E are parked under some cedars in a bush right now .I can go places with the 40 that I cant take the newer machines It is just that light that it can go places that even a skidder cant venture into and level out the ruts where the skidder got stuck while it works . Digitup.

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Post by Trucker Dan » Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:24 pm

Inoticed you said iit was a loader,I home built a set of forks for my 1010 that attach using the pins that attach the bucket. Iwelded old hyster forks to a piece of heavy [ AND I MEAN HEAVY] steel plate, and built a kind of framework in the back with short tubes at the attaching points. I take the pins out of the bucket, take it off and attach the forks. With the forks there is almost no dragging the logs, they stay clean, and it is amazing how many logs the little 1010 can tote. I think I got a little carried away building them because they are quite heavy but I have come to the conclusion that they are virtually indestructable. I think Deere would be proud. Its just a thought but they work real good for getting logs out of the woods.

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