Bio-doesel fuels

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Purepowder2000
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Bio-doesel fuels

Post by Purepowder2000 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:49 am

In this day and age I have been researching bio-diesel fuels and at first I was skepitcal. Now that I have researched I do beleive it is possible. I have found this website www.dieselsecret.com. I am waiting for some stuff in the mail from them and I have to buy about $150 worth of pumps and filters. I am first going to test it in my fathers volkswagon rabbit. If it works then I am going to use it in everything. It comes down to .45 cents a gallon and I use old vegatable oil from resturants. I checked the better business bureua and they have had only one compliant within three years. I will let you know how it works. Hope to be energy indepenadant soon!

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Tiny Crawler
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Post by Tiny Crawler » Mon Apr 09, 2007 12:22 pm

I have a co-worker that started making bio-diesel, Talked to him and he said to stay away from that site, something about them telling you to put unleaded gas in the mix. He has built his own set up and is running bio-diesel in his car, and bought a diesel generator to offset the electrical grid. Here is the web page he recommends http://localb100.com/ this is where he started, and he has spent a lot of time researching this, he has built a shed beside his house and been brewing for about 6 months now. I keep thinking the same but I have too many I-Wantta-Does on my list now. I am going to do some grading work for him and in exchange for bio-diesel.

digitup
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Post by digitup » Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:47 pm

If you get a chance try canola oil .I do work for a neighbor that deals in fats and oils by the tractor trailer load he only uses canola oil and can darn d near wean older diesels off diesel fuel and get 30% better gallon/mile economy .He even runs his new Volvo trucks on the stuff .All winter he ran a older Dodge with the 24 valve Cummins engine in it on 65% canola oil . He said it didn't start worth a darn d in the cold of winter but unbelievable fuel economy .At 2.90 a gallon it is suppose to get you at least 30% better fuel economy but I haven't tried it and don't see me trying any in the newer equipment yet either.I guess if it gets any more expensive I should start with the old Detroits they will run on anything .But I bet they will slober all over the place then .Digitup.

Purepowder2000
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bio diesel

Post by Purepowder2000 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:29 pm

Been busy. Its true about that crap secret diesel. No good, BUT THOSE WEBSITES ARE THE BEST. I ended up going with just veg oil directly into engine. new canola oil ran even better then diesel fuel. I will now get waste veg oil from resturant and let you guys know. I well just filter with 400 micron filter.

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670johndeere
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Post by 670johndeere » Sun May 13, 2007 11:05 am

STAY AWAY FROM THE DIESEL SECRET !!! All it is is snake oil. I fell for the good website, and purchased the kit. Not worth it. I use to use it in my truck, after having to take a couple of day's off of work, to work on my truck because it wouldn't run, I stopped running it. Seems to plug the filters in my fuel tank. Just stay away. Run
Diehard John Deere Man

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Tiny Crawler
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Post by Tiny Crawler » Fri May 25, 2007 6:25 am

I was talking to my buddy about our blog on biodiesel and he shared this information. Hope it helps anyone.

Tell your friends on the board to be careful using Straight Vegetable Oil (SVO) if not heated for the following reasons:
- is much higher viscosity than diesel fuel and will likely damage injector pumps, injectors.
- May not spray or atomize properly at the injector nozzle tip and cause piston ring damage as a result of spray along the cylinder wall.
- When regular vegetable oil is mixed with petroleum diesel the waxes from the diesel tend to separate and form at the bottom of your fuel tank.

If you want to run 100% vegetable oil, it is fine as long as you do the following...
- Start on Diesel or Biodiesel and run until you reach operating temperature.
- Use engine coolant to heat the vegetable oil resevoir/tank and then switch a valve to supply that 160+F vegetable oil to your injector pump.
- if you plan to shut the engine down for any length of time (more than 15 minutes) be sure to switch back to biodiesel or diesel to clear the injection system of the vegetable oil.

Take a look at this site:
http://www.frybrid.com/
http://www.frybrid.com/svo.htm

Oh and one more thing.. If you use waste vegetable oil or used vegetable oil make sure you filter down to at least 10 microns before dumping it into your tank, and make sure you don't have any water in the oil, that will kill an injector pump very quickly and standard diesel fuel water separaters will not remove that water from your oil, the water has to be cooked out or the oil allowed to settle for a couple weeks at temperatures above 90F. After settling for 2 weeks only use the top 2/3 of the oil which shouldn't have any water in it.

Running biofuels in a compression ignition engine isn't a new idea, that is what Rudolf Diesel intended his "compression ignition oil engine" (now known as a diesel) to run on. In fact if Diesel could he would roll over in his grave knowing that we had all been burning that nasty #2 oil the petroleum industry couldn't find a use for and then discovered it would run in Mr. Diesel's oil engine. Of course #2 petroleum oil was a refinery waste product that nobody knew what to do with. Amazing how a waste product turned into a valuable fuel.



The diesel engine can be fed with vegetable oils and would help considerably in the development of agriculture of the countries which use it.

The use of vegetable oils for engine fuels may seem insignificant today. But such oils may become in course of time as important as petroleum and the coal tar products of the present time.

Rudolf Diesel 1911

digitup
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Post by digitup » Wed May 30, 2007 6:40 pm

Seems those refinery people as greedy as they have found they could get top dollar for that so called by product also contributing to the scenario. But then it sure makes the other oils look more interesting .My neighbor uses used motor oil filtered through toilet paper rolls without the paper cores of all things . He then uses 20% used motor oil in the fuel in his Dodge truck .And this has to be hard on the oil viscosity that is also hard on injector pumps .[The seventy's were also very good to him ].He talks about 40 miles to the gallon but my diesel motors aren't being weaned off 100% fuel now or in the near future .I guess I will just pay the big price I at least know roughly how long my motors will last on good old #2 diesel oil .Digitup.

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Post by Lavoy » Wed May 30, 2007 9:45 pm

I would seriously question his 40MPG, I don't think used motor oil has any more BTU's per gallon than diesel fuel.
Lavoy

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wwattson
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Post by wwattson » Wed May 30, 2007 9:50 pm

I think you're on the money Lavoy. I believe #2 diesel is about 140,000 BTU per gallon and used motor oil is at best about 150,000. Not enough difference to get to 40 mpg unless you were already getting 39.
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu May 31, 2007 8:13 am

Hi,

I'd have to also be skeptical about such mileage increases from minor fuel changes without also haveing a major change in the power transmission method.

If one dumped the mechanical drive system for an electrical one, then I could see it. I.E. the drive sysem of a locomotive, where the engine power is used to run a generator and then the power is transmitted electrically to motors right ar the wheels.

In the early 1980's a few of us young (at that time) engineeers built a Chevy Luv pickup as a diesel-electric hybrid using a 20 HP diesel engine for the generator and a surplus US Navy DC electric motor to power the driveshaft. We, unfortunately, had to keep the differential, and that hurt the overall system, but it did work.

We only managed to get 45 mpg highway out of that scheme. It did do up to 60 MPG in-town, but that had a lot to do with having the batteries topped off from the AC mains before starting out. The highway mileage is much more representative, since one rapidly loses the power put into the system from the AC mains when on a trip.

One of these days, in the next year or two, I'm going to build another one. But this time I'm going to chop up the DC power at high frequency and drive much smaller AC motors and try to lose the pesky power-robbing differential gears. I'll see if I can get 80 MPG out of the next one! :)

Oh, and why not make up my own biodiesel while I'm at it. At 80 MPG, I won't need to make more than a couple gallons a day to power the thing. :)

Stan
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digitup
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Post by digitup » Thu May 31, 2007 8:40 pm

I realize that he needs that toilet paper to wipe off his BS .I ran north with a crew last winter with one of my 7.3 turbo Fords.And two Dodge 24 valve diesels of my friends. I beat them in fuel economy badly .But forgot to tell them that my thermostat was stuck just a hair from the red line . I watched that gage like crazy all the way there and back .And was carrying about 1200lbs more than them they couldnt get over how that truck got that mileage .I never told them how but a good hot motor can use a lot less fuel .When I got home I changed the thermostat and I lost nearly 4MPG on the return trip .And my new 6.4 wont get near what the old ones get in fuel economy either . Digitup.

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:07 am

Hey Digitup-

Out of curiousity, what kind of MPG were you getting on that trip?
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

digitup
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Post by digitup » Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:29 pm

I figured around 26mpg[Canadian gallon ]My new 6.4gets 22mpg but is getting better as it is seating the rings . And the driver likes to pass every thing on the road .Digitup.

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Lucky
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Deisel

Post by Lucky » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:26 am

This seems like a good place to ask this question, i.e. objective answers.

I am getting ready to buy a new, to me, diesel pickup. My budget allows me to get one that is about 3 - 5 years old. I have test driven a 2004 Ford and liked all but the low end torque. It would not break the tires loose in 4X on gravel. On that same gravel road my 1995 GM 6.5 Turbo with approx. 240K will burough four nice troughs. So I did a little research and found some disturbing news about the Ford 6.0. Anybody herehave any experience with these or the GM or Cummins.

Any input is appreciated.
Last edited by Lucky on Sun Jul 22, 2007 12:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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wwattson
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Post by wwattson » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:41 am

Stay away from the Ford 6.0. If you want to buy a Ford, go with a slightly older one with the 7.3L Powerstroke.

The GM reputation isn't much better than the new Fords. If it was me, I'd go with the Cummins.

Only my opinion. The new Ford diesels are going to end up in a huge class action deal and is pretty much regarded as a total lemon with no fix in sight.

Sad to see Ford take a commanding position in the truck market and pretty much trash their reputation on two sets of problems , the Triton gas engines blowing spark plugs out and the new diesels with a bunch of problems. It's not that tough. Check out this site for the best of all worlds. Don't think that I could ever get the numbers to work out but it would be the way I'd go if money wasn't entirely the object.

http://www.fordcummins.com/
Bill Wattson

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