moving a machine.

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brettjones
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moving a machine.

Post by brettjones » Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:43 pm

My 1010c sat all summer and will not start. I'd like to move it into the shop before snow starts falling.

I was thinking of removing the outside blade and moving it out of the way, then towing it via chain to the shop door (60-80 feet away). Getting it into the shop has left me scratching my head. It's not a drive through building.

I could possibly fab something so I could push the machine into the shop. I have a Fisher minute mount on my ton truck. Maybe a push bar/face that slides into the frame receiver?

How have you people moved non running crawlers around?
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:20 pm

Usually I use another crawler, but they will two fairly well. If you get the crawler lined up in a straight line with the shop, you can put a piece of timber between the front or rear of the crawler and you plow mount and push it it. Another trick is to put a log chain through a section of pipe, you can push this way too.
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brettjones
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Post by brettjones » Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:54 pm

When I poured the floor for this building I was planning on setting a substantial concrete anchor point into the earth at the wall opposite the bay door. Something I could use to winch in cars, trucks, etc. In the rush to get the building up I skipped it.

Kicking myself now.........
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:04 pm

I thought the same thing, never got it done either, although I think a foot square plate anchored with 1/2" or better anchors would still stand the stress.
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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:52 am

brettjones wrote:When I poured the floor for this building I was planning on setting a substantial concrete anchor point into the earth at the wall opposite the bay door. Something I could use to winch in cars, trucks, etc.
I am in the process of planning my machine shed.....thanks for the good idea!
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

brettjones
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Post by brettjones » Thu Nov 08, 2007 4:15 pm

That's a good idea Lavoy.

I'm hesitant to drill into the floor due to the radiant tubing in it. I have access to a thermal imaging camera so I could map the tubing and drill around it, but I'm still worried I'd fracture the concrete and bust a tube.

I will be doing an addition on the back wall of the shop at some point. I'll do the anchor in that floor and run a heavy chain through the wall.

As to moving the 1010, I'll be doing it next Monday. I'm sure I'll pull something out of my hat and get it done.
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Nov 08, 2007 5:05 pm

Not worth the risk of breaking the tubing, that is for sure.
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FarmLife
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Post by FarmLife » Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:40 pm

Depending on the size of your building and the size of your door you can pull it in as far as you can with a small tractor or whatever else can move it. Then push the dozer in as close to the wall as possible and drive the tractor out behind it. Now if you are working in a single bay this would be difficult but a doubel bay you should be able to work something out. With your MC we were able to push it with the bumper on the small tractor into the shop.
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Davie Sprocket
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Post by Davie Sprocket » Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:44 pm

My 57, moved it with pinch bars, wow was that a lot of work, pulled it off the trailer with a come along. Than pinched each track back and forth into the yard. Not recommended but possible.

Dave

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BKahler
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Post by BKahler » Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:11 pm

Well this may not be the best idea in the world but if you're going to be building an add on to the back of the shop why not open a small hole in the wall and use a log chain or cable to pull it into the shop and then patch the hole until you finally add on?

Just a thought.

Brad

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Post by JR » Fri Nov 09, 2007 4:15 pm

Try getting it up on some round logs or pipes. the friction will go away and any small vehicle will push it. Make sure to hook a chain on so it dosen't roll away from you and you now have a drive through garage.
JR

brettjones
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Post by brettjones » Sat Nov 10, 2007 12:45 am

It's a good sized building (38x40) with a 10' tall X 12' wide bay door on the left side of the gable end. Like most shops it's full of stuff (welders, tool boxes, a couple of lathes, a mill, stuff, etc, etc, etc) and a future project car ('78 Datsun z car). There's plenty of room to dig into the 1010 once it's in, but not enough to get around it with the tow rig ('86 GMC 4x4 dually ton).

Once it's in front of the bay door, it's going to have to be a pushing job. I'm going to try and keep it simple and use the plow on the GMC to push it in. I have a winch on the 1010 to push against, so I'll just pad the contact points with some timbers and see how it works. I just need to push squarely to spare the plow blade and frame.
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mailtrain@usadatanet.net
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moving a machine

Post by mailtrain@usadatanet.net » Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:59 pm

Hi Brett I had a problem moving my 430c, not in to a building off the trailer and 200 ft. The slickest thing is two pieces of the plastic mowboard that is used on the snowplows that the highway depts use.Slides nice on grass,frozen ground and wont hurt concrete might leave an orange stain. It worked for me. Dean

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DiggerLarry
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Post by DiggerLarry » Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:33 am

I have the same setup, one door. I have an old wagon tounge with another hitch (flat barstock) welded on the wagon end of it. I can hitch two together and SAFELY push or pull the dead one any where. You could make one yourself from a piece of 1 1/2x2 or 2x3 sq. tubing about 4 ft long with some barstock welded to the ends and then drill a 3/4 holes for the hitch pins. It's one of the best tools I have.
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brettjones
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Post by brettjones » Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:03 pm

Post a picture if you could Digger. I'm not sure how this setup works.

Thanks.
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch

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