The linkage from the clutch pedal pulled the clutch arm forward.
This is the original clutch lever arm on the engine.
The clutch pedal on the tractor is going to now be behind the engine so I need to change the clutch arm so it pulls backward.
First I cut the original clutch arm off.
Then I made a sleeve that fits over the clutch shaft. This sleeve has a 3/4 inch diameter shaft sticking out with a keyway milled into it.
Next, I made a new clutch arm that fits on the shaft.
This arm extends down along side the frame so when it is pulled backwards it opens the clutch.
For the clutch pedal pivot pin, I made a mounting plate from 5/8 inch thick steel.
A 1 inch diameter shaft is pressed into this plate and welded on the the back side.
This pivot pin is then bolted onto the side of the frame.
I found an old steel roller off something, that has bronze bushings with a 1 inch diameter bore.
This is going to be the base for the clutch pedal.
Because the steering is mounted on this side, I don't have as much room to work with as I did on the other side with the brakes.
This shows the clearance with the steering arm all the way back.
Also note, I welded a steel plug in the end of the foot pad support. There will be a brace from it to the pivot pin.
Here is the finished clutch pedal.
The pedal is mounted and the linkage is made between the clutch pedal and the clutch arm.
A plate is bolted on the end of the foot pad support and the end of the pivot pin.
This supports the end of the pin and keeps the clutch pedal from sliding off.
A view of the linkage from the top.
Here is a view from the seat.
The new rear brake bands came in so I started working on the brake levers.
The shaft for levers goes thru a hole in the back of the axle housing. The arm on the brake side will be welded on but the arm on the other side needs to be able to come off so the shaft can be removed in case I ever have to work on the bull gears.
I bought a universal pulley/sprocket hub from TSC. I also got two "half moon" keys that fit the hub.
The hub was long enough that I could cut it in two and then I turned the outside diameter down to fit the clearance on the axle housing.
Then I use a side key-cutter and milled a slot into each shaft for the keys.
the arms have been welded on the outside of the shafts and the keyed hubs are mounted on the inside of the shafts.
Then I made up two arms for each side. One arm goes up for the brake cable to attach to and the other goes down and has a screw at the bottom.
This screw is to adjust how far the arm will open up the brake band.
Here are the finished brake shafts and brake arms.
the brake arms are mounted in place and I welded a bracket on top of the axle housing to hold the brake cable housing.
As a reminder, this is the shifter handle that was on the engine.
The shifting levers went forward and came up between the seats on the EzGo utility cart.
The lever on the left is for shifting the 3-speed transmission and the other lever is for shifting the high/low transmission.
I cut the shifter off at the first bend so that left about 1-1/2 inch of shift lever sticking up from the transmission.
Using a piece of 1 inch steel bar, I made a sleeve that fit over the shifter stub.
This sleeve is welded to the shifter thru holes that were drilled in the sides.
Then I cut off part of the old shifter lever and welded it to the sleeve.
I'm using a parking brake handle off and old truck from back in the 30's.
Two angle brackets are welded to the frame for the brake handle to bolt too.
I was thinking of mounting a brake drum on the drive shaft for the parking brake but there just isn't enough room.
So I'm going to have the parking brake handle operate both of the rear brake levers.
This it the jack shaft for the parking brake. The jack shaft tube is split into 3 sections.
The levers are welded on the tubes and connecting rods made for operating the rear brakes.
Here is the completed jack shaft with a rod from the center lever going to the parking brake handle.
Here is a close up photo of the parking brake jack shaft.
The parking brake has to be designed so that each rear brake can work independently and still have the parking brake handle pull both at the same time.
The center lever has a arm across the back that contacts a lever sticking up from the operating tube for both sides.
When the parking brake handle is pulled back, it pulls this center lever forward and the cross arm pulls both brake levers.
The cross arm pivots at the center to allow even pressure on both brake levers.
With the cross arm being behind the levers on the tubes, each brake can be operated independently and the lever on the tube just moves forward away from the cross arm.
Here is how it looks all primed and mounted back in place.
A side view of the parking brake handle and linkage with the foot pad mounted back on.
This engine originally had a generator mounted down under the right cylinder head.
I want to use an alternator but I can't mount it where the generator was because the front tire would hit it when turning sharply.
So I'm making a bracket that will mount the alternator up on top of the engine.
Here I have the bracket arms made and bolted to the engine and I'm lining up the alternator to tack weld the alternator bracket to the arms.
The front upper and lower bracket arms fasten on with the timing cover bolts.
I had to weld a mounting bracket to the engine block for the rear bracket arm to mount too.
the finished mounting bracket.
The fan shroud had to be cut out to fit around the alternator bracket. Most of the bracket is hidden by the shroud.
These four pieces of angle are cut to build the battery box.
Holding the pieces together with a 90 degree clamp for welding.
The battery box is finished welded.
This is the underside of the battery box with all the mounting brackets welded on.
The battery box is mounted over the rear axle.
Here is how it looks with the battery.
the U-joint needs to have a cover over it.
I had changed my mind and decided not to use the steering column support that I had built because it made it haed to get on and off the tractor.
So I cut it off about 1/2 inch above the height of the U-joint.
The steel tube will be used later to run electrical wire up thru it and have the wire protected from the spinning U-joint.
then I made up a steel cover that will be welded onto the bracket.
Here's how it looks mounted in place.
