Garage Advice column.
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
It is entertaining (as long as I did not pay for it) to watch the bubbles (effervescence) to "appear" to actually penerate between a rusted nut and bolt.
Water is the cheapest, and heat applied properly seldom fails.
Save your money on the snake oil cans. Each one of them contains a smell that they know intentionally keep you hooked on them.
Water is the cheapest, and heat applied properly seldom fails.
Save your money on the snake oil cans. Each one of them contains a smell that they know intentionally keep you hooked on them.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Getting a bigger hammer is seldom the best way to take something apart or make it fit. If it isn't coming apart, stop and recheck everything to make sure you didn't miss a bolt or snap ring.......and if it isn't going back together don't force it unless it's a pressed fit! Really good way to make a new part into scrap!
Rick
Rick
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
My 60 something body isn't as strong, nimble or resilient as it once was. Neither is my crawler's. I pace myself, try to work smarter and carry a smaller load. I find that this helps me strategize better when using my machine as well, and it helps me avoid costly repairs. Of course sometimes I forget.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
broken bolts
when removing broken bolts, I find that it works even better if you weld a flat washer on first and let it cool. Then weld a nut on second. This gives 2 heating and cooling cycles and almost never fails. I have had many failed attempts when going for just the nut welded on. This also allows you to weld inside the nut as well as outside, as long as you stay low enough to still get a wrench on it.
Last edited by cat10til2 on Fri Feb 03, 2012 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JD 1010, 610 blade, winch, gas
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
Re: broken bolts
This also allows welding a larger nut on it.cat10til2 wrote:when removing broken bolts, I find that it works even better if you weld a flat washer on first and let it cool. Then weld a nut on second. This gives 2 heating and cooling cycles and almost never fails. I have had many failed attempts when going for just the nut welded on. This also allows you to weld inside the nut as well as outside, as long as you stay low wnough to still get a wrench on it.
Gus
I once saw a fellow lose his wedding band along with is finger when he hung it on the seat frame while jumping from the track to the ground. It was sickening to see and he was in real pain obviously.
57 420c 86 Ford 4600
67 350 dozer
66 350 loader
58 Oliver OC-4
48 8n Ford
49 Farmall Cub
Struck Mini-Dozer
67 350 dozer
66 350 loader
58 Oliver OC-4
48 8n Ford
49 Farmall Cub
Struck Mini-Dozer
I was always afraid of doing that very thing!!! Wow!! That's why I don't wear mine when I'm working on anything. That and I shorted mine out once! Not bad enough to hurt me other than it scared the crap out of me! My biggest issue was the knot on my head that my wife gave me for putting a mark on my wedding band!!
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
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