hauling the 40C

homer · Post by **homer** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:25 pm

Finally sold my house in VA & moving to TX. Going to haul my 40C to its new home. My question is how is the best way to secure the crawler to the trailer. From what I have been reading, since the crawler weighs less the 10000lbs, it is not technically heavy equipment, but should be secured as such anyway. The way I understand the manual is I need 2 chains in front and 2 in the rear to secure it to the trailer. Of course meeting requirements for load ratings etc. My intended route is VA, TN, AR, then TX.

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:39 pm

I believe technically that is correct. Given that the breaking strength of one 5/16" grade 70 chain is higher than the total weight of the crawler, I think you will be just fine with two chains. I don't travel that long of distances, especially not any more, but I have never been stopped for only having one chain on each end.
Lavoy

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:52 pm

Say what? 10,000 pounds for a 40? My 420 is only 4500 pounds. Have you an extra tractor on yours?

Chain is rated for torque by size of link. Sorry I dont remember the ratings That Western Express tried to drill into my brain for commercial loading.

Looking it up on Mcmaster Carr the average 3/8" chain will give you 2650 pounds. By law you are required 1 chain / strap per 8 feet with minimum of 2 shains / straps per load. So even if it was only 6 feet of load your required 2 chains / straps. So (2) 3/8" chain are 5300 pounds of torque combined. I recomend you use ratchet binders (one binder per chain). Remember to recheck your load after the first ten minuntes of travel (yes the tightest load will loosen). Also check the tension anywhere you stop. Please make sure those trailer brakes are working. Have safety chains and the breakaway box. We really dont want to read about you on the news.

When your ready to head out it would not hurt to visit a CAT scale at a truck stop. The scales that the police use are not certified and if you get stopped and you dont have proof, they love to go after the uninformed. If you can, get an empty weight before you load, that way you know (lol if I am wrong) the truth.
Yes you can be stopped and they can hit you on the tractor. I talked to a trooper (dieselbear on Truckersreport.com) and he said if that tractor has had any use past or future for earning money you fall into the authority of commercial police. Fun huh? Dont declare that the truck. trailer. or tractor will be used for hire in any way or means.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

homer · Post by **homer** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:58 am

I think from what I've read the 40C is around 4000 lbs base weight. Took the truck & empty trailer across the CAT scales yesterday to get my empty weight.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:39 am

New tractor companies prefer cloth straps. Reason? Chain will chew your paint off, straps will polish the paint. Be sure you dont have any cuts in the sides of your straps that you use.

Should there be a scale house you should be able to drive by. Only go in if they flag you in or pull you over.

How big of a pickup are you pulling this with? Half ton is sufficient.

homer · Post by **homer** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 1:02 pm

I have used both straps and chain in the past; no shiny paint on it yet.

Will be towing with my F-350 SRW.

townlineterry · Post by **townlineterry** » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:16 pm

You can check out the North American Cargo Securement Standard, which is the fancy name for the the DOT regulations. the gist of it is this. You need a four point securement. a chain and binder at each corner of the machine. Minumum chain is 70 proof, it will have a 7 or a 70 embossed on it. Chains must be INSIDE the bumperrail of the trailer.

Your towing vehicle will have Gross Combination Weight specified by manufacture. The GCW is the weight of the truck, trailer and cargo. If your total weight exceeds the GCW your illegal.

5/16 chain is rated for 4700 working load limiit, the should be strong enough, ratchet binders are better that lver binders.

A point about the DOT, some of these guys can be real jerks, most of them are not. They are doing a necessary job, keeping things safe for you as well as everybody else on the road. You don't have to kiss their butts, but if you treat them with courtesy and don't try pulling a fast one they will usually be fair with you

homer · Post by **homer** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:42 am

Thanks for the input. I had found that manual online and had pretty much came to the same conclusion. Really appreciate the second opinion from a more knowledgeable source. I have made the trip a few times with a large u-Haul, but never towed my trailer that far. Now all I have to do is find some old crawler guys in the Austin area to talk shop.

pop pop · Post by **pop pop** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:01 am

hi homer, don't forget the trailers brakes. seems like their priceless when you get into a puckering situation, haah,,,

homer · Post by **homer** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 5:58 am

So true - having them inspected & adjusted tomorrow. Also getting a weight distributing hitch - trying to be safer and legal.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:51 pm

Willyr wrote:Should there be a scale house you should be able to drive by. Only go in if they flag you in or pull you over.

This depends on the state- for instance in my home state of MO any truck licensed for greater than 18,000 pounds (regardless of load at the time) must stop at the weigh stations. A F350 SRW (mine is 9300 pounds GVWR) is sometimes registered for greater than 18K since GCWR could be higher depending on type of trailer towed. Mine is registed at 18K because I only tow a 4 ton trailer.

Some states (I believe in the northeast) require all trucks to pull over at weigh stations.

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hauling the 40C

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