Broken Bolt/Stud removal

[Little John]

I'd not heard of this one yet, nor have I tried it. It is similar to the welding of an oversize nut on a projecting piece.
For a stud or bolt broken off down in the threaded hole:
Select a piece of pipe that will fit (slide)into the threaded base material, down to the broken piece.
Weld, inside of the pipe, ...the pipe wall to the stud. How much do you fill the pipe with weld ?? I don't know. But, the next thing to do, tells me you weld a bunch.
Turn the pipe out with a pipe wrench, (and the broken piece too, hopefully.)
This could work well where you could soak the broken piece for awhile, maybe with a small hole drilled along the threads.
Gettin' ready for a bunch of rusty bolts here and am listen' for all kinds of help.

[Lavoy]

Normally when they talk about this, they mean copper pipe, not steel. Copper is has a thinner wall thickness, and will not weld to, it is just to protect the threads. Just as well fill it to the full diameter if you are doing it this way, the more surface area, the more torque it will stand.
You will have a lot better results if you drill the center out of the old bolt, and them plug weld it back shut. When the weld cools, it will shrink and relieve the tension against the walls of the hole.
What I use if it is a deep break is a rod called Super Missle Weld, also have had it in another brand and they called it High Alloy 400. It is a high elongation stainless steel with a flux that will not blow through. If you are careful, stand the rod on end in the hole keeping it dead center and let it burn. The stainless piles up in a column, the flux flows outward and surrounds the column so the weld does not touch the threads. Be careful, if you point the rod at the side, it will weld the stud in the hole, and you are SOL. The key is flowing molten metal does not adhere as long is the arc is not there to make it penetrate. I have done the same thing with a wire welder on 440 final cases in big holes. Let the weld pile up and flow out against the case, just make sure to always keep the gun vertical and never point the arc towards the side or again you are SOL other than drilling it out.
Regardless of the method, I always weld all the way to the surface, then set a not on the weld column and weld it on as well. Let it cool, and then start on it gently with the smallest impact wrench you have so the vibration can work.
Lavoy

[Little John]

Lavoy, Thank you for a very valuable reply. I will certainly have to 'practice' this prior to use.

[lastchancegarage]

Lavoy,
What have you done for horizontal bolts when they break? Is the 'drill them out and plug weld them' about the only option? I've never heard of that 'super missile weld' rod you spoke of but would like to try it. Just another 'tool' for the tool box. Thanks for the info.

Scott

[Lavoy]

I have used copper pipe in that instance because I was afraid I would get the arc into the threads. If the bolt broke off flush, then no it is no problem. You can try an easy out, but for me they have always been a waste of time unless it was a brand new bolt that twisted off.
One time I had a different brand of rod, I believe they called it High Alloy 500. If you can't find them locally, let me know, I can get you some here. They aren't cheap, but well worth the investment if it saves an otherwise junk casting.
Lavoy

[lastchancegarage]

Thanks for the insight. I'm sure when I go to break this thing down something's bound to snap off. Probably right around the finals. It's good to have a few backup plans as options before scrapping anything. I'll see what's available around here as far as the super missile and the high alloy 500. There's a couple of welding supply houses in the industrial park where I work. Someone should have something. Thanks again for the info.

Scott