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Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:58 am

I cant seem to find the urge to go back to work on my tractor. Too many times it seems like it is ungrateful for the work that I put into it.

Sigh

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 5:50 pm

IT LIVES!!!!
err I mean
IT RUNS!

Now if only I could get into the seat. sigh, hope getting the foot step for the rear axle makes the difference.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:14 am

Congratulations. Pretty soon you'll be able to put it to work. Paul

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:25 pm

Yes it does run.

Carb needs some adjustment, it runs rich.

The squeel you hear (hiss) is a different alternator I tried, it has a bad bearing and wont charge. Looks as though I will be buying a new one from Amazon for $50 (chromed no less)

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 4:16 pm

Willy, nice!
As to the alternator, I use this kit to rebuild my 10SI alternators.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 4/10002/-1
It is not hard to do and it is cheaper then buying a new one.
Dan.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 4:54 pm

Oh well, got a replacement from NAPA Auto for $48.15

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 4:56 pm

The reasons I like original generators is that alternators charge faster, are easier to wire, readily available, etc.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Thu Apr 26, 2012 7:52 pm

Now I need to paint it. Looks like a sore grey thumb trying to hitch a ride on that pretty green tractor.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:31 am

Well I hooked up the new alternator last night when I couldnt sleep. I did not pay any attention to whether or not the alternator turned. Seems I put it together and the cooling fan was too large. Didnt that belt shriek! Changed the cooling fan and I am now proud to say I am no longer running off the battery. Ammeter held at 10+ amps, even when I turned on the lights that pull 20 amps.

Now to get the foot step in so I can get her out of the garage and get her power washed.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:31 am

I got the tractor out of the garage and over to where I could power wash it. Man was that tractor filthy! I found places where the tractor may have been painted yellow. Other places where it may have been at a tractor sales and that place painted over the older dried up grease. My friend Greg came over and looked at it, he agreed it was alot cleaner. Too bad I couldnt have cleaned it when I got it initially. Yet some places like the end bearing to the fan would not clean off. Today I will go to town and get some Dawn and a good scrub brush and soap up the tractor for another wash. This time to get the soap to soak in first.

I figure in this hobby or anyone that owns a tractor. If you dont own a good power washer, then your tractor will eventually look like $h*t

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:34 pm

Hi Willy: Have you tried "Gunk" degreaser? I bought it in a gallon container and mix it with either kerosene or diesel fuel per directions and spray it on a warm (even by the sun), dry engine and let it soak in then power wash it off. It turns the grease and oil to soap and comes off as a milky solution mixed with chunks of grease, rust, paint , etc. Sometimes it takes two or more tries to get the heavy stuff off. The trick is to have a dry machine;even a little water will reduce the effectiveness substantially. I still need to get out the scrapers,awls and other tools to get into those hidden and tough spots, but I find that this product is very helpful and pretty quick to clean up a machine.

A gallon of concentrate lasts a long time - multiple years in my case.
Good luck getting your tractor all spruced up.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:53 pm

Thanks for the thought of Gunk. Alas my NAPA doesnt sell it, I went with the purple stuff.

Granted right now my tractor is back in the garage. I have a major leak in the radiator. So it all comes back off to get that repaired.

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:23 pm

Willy,

I was a moment from raising the heavy nose piece in place on my 440 ICD when I noticed a small spray out of the top tank of the rad. That was luck. After the nose was on, I would not have seen it until it got bigger or maybe saw the water leaking.

Taking them apart again is good to understand just how they go together.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Tue May 01, 2012 4:17 am

I took my 60 for a stroll here in town. Where I live (town of Sorrento, Maine) we have a population of about 100 in the off season. In the summer this goes up to about 2500. The town has some nifty hills, one that leads away from the wharf is a good 45 degrees. The town is a peninsula, this peninsula is about 4 miles long, plenty of room for a nice long ride. So back to the story. I thought I would have some fun. I saw a vid where some one drove their tractor down a Connecticut (question location) road and they had to downshift to make a hill. So I was a little concerned that I too would have to do a clumsy gear change. Much to my pleasure I found this tractor in 6th gear still has alot of nads. Heck I was even dropping the throttle to almost idle to hear that engine bark!

Yet I discovered something that was a bit of a concern. Other than the seat being too far forward for my 6 foot 2 inch frame. The clutch has 12 inches of play in the handle. So I just took it apart this morning and here is what I found.

As you can see the half inch hole has been elongated to nine sixteenths. I figure I will drill it out to 0.625 and make a steel bushing for it. After all, it only took 60 years for it to get this bad.

Oh and as to fuel consumption? I burned about a gallon (maybe) an hour barking up and down those hills over a 3.5 hour trip (I drove some 10 miles).

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Tue May 01, 2012 5:59 am

Today's gas will go bad in an old 2 popper before you burn it all.

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