Knocking down trees with a crawler

[BKahler]

One of the many reasons I bought (am buying actually) a crawler was to help clear some of our land of trees. Most of the trees in question are 4" to 12" pine trees. Very tall with most of the branches up high.

What is the proper procedure and precautions for knocking down trees like these?

Thanks,

Brad

[Lavoy]

Be really careful, if the tree comes over backwards on you, you will get squashed. I don't think that you are going to be tipping that size of tree over with these crawlers.
Lavoy

[JD40c]

The few times I've done it, I run the blade perpendicular to the direction I want the tree to follow, on the opposite side of the tree from where I'll be pushing. They tip over a lot easier like that. Another way is to cut the tree down with a saw, but leave 4 or 5 feet of trunk left, and chain to the top of that. It gives a lot of leverage.

[Als-your-pal]

From experence i would say to cut them off..a pine is one of the strongest root systems of any tree...u also can't be sure how week the top is by looking at it...trust me its a real shitty feeling to be sitting there with a top falling on you and no place to run..

hope this help!!
don't want to see anyone hurt..
cheers Al

[BKahler]

I have been wondering about that. I had been thinking og felling the trees with a chain saw and then using the crawler to uproot the stumps. If the crawler won't do this I'll use my Case 530CK backhoe.

One way or another I'll get the land cleared!

Thanks for all the tips,

Brad

[JD40c]

If you have access to a good backhoe, that'd be the easiest way by far. The power from the bucket curl alone would tear out a lot of roots. Then use the dozer to push the stumps around.

[Jimmy in NC]

I don't think I'd tackle anything that big with a little crawler. Most of the time I'm pushing little trees out though I find if I can dig just a little arround it, put the blade in and disrupt the soil all arround and cut some roots, it comes out much easier.

Jimmy

[pjl]

I basically bought my crawler for similar reasons. I use my 1010c to level a pathway in for my 410 backhoe. Your hoe should dispense of those stumps quite easily, then regrade with the crawler.
PJL

[zahnje]

Taking trees down with these crawlers is especially dangerous. With no ROPS cab or overhead protection a loose or dead branch falling can ruin the rest of your day. At least wear a hard hat. It will help some on the small stuff. On the big stuff that could come down it may make your undertakers job a little easier. It's not a " no brainer" with a chainsaw either. There's alot of energy stored up in those trees. It is hard ot get it to work for you. I dig around the rootball opposite the side of the tree that has the most branches. Preferrably on the uphill side. Then push up high and get ready to back away 'cause the upturning root ball you don't want underneath you!

JimZ.

[Little John]

Interesting use of a crawler loader. I've pushed over trees after setting the bucket against them, setting brake, dismounting and then cutting partially through the tree, and then remounting the seat and pushing over the tree. Works find with some care. One time I especially remember was when I notched the tree in the normal, no kick back, manner. After pushing the tree right off of the stump, it was 'giddy up go' to regain control of it and get the tree's center of gravity back in front of the bucket and not on my side of it. Fortunately, I'd cut it low enough that I could continue to push it 'til it 'stuck' in the ground on the other side of the stump and still the stump didn't hang up on the skid pan. All went well and I quickly learned, and am not soon to forget, to make the lower cut on the tractor side of the tree ! The 440 is not very forgiving to dumb mistakes like that, what with all of the bucket arms pointing right to the operators chest ! Be CAREFUL, Mora

[lastchancegarage]

What I've found works pretty well for downing tress is to attach some beefy rope as high on the tree as possible then to the crawler long enough to miss the crawler when it comes down. About halfway between crawler and tree I'll loop the rope around a sizable piece of cut tree for weight. Pull the crawler so it suspends the cut tree section. Then start digging the roots on the opposite side of the tree. Once you've cut enough of the roots, the weight helps to start the tree in the right direction. The nice part about leaving the tree whole is there's no stumping when you're done seeing as the tree rips the ball out when it comes down. Of course this is for a one man operation. It's also geared to dropping bigger trees than what you're encountering. Concept should be the same either way. If you have someone on the crawler you could leave out the weight on the rope and just signal when you want the crawler to pull. Good luck.

[Little John]

LastChance...That is a good idea, using a 'weight' on the pull rope. Never even thought about that !! Duh..., live and learn!! I've pulled some down too, but not with John...with the Ford 4000. John always allowed me to push on the tree and lock the brakes to hold pressure on it. The ford brakes are a different story and I always just pulled and shut it down until cutting was done enough to pull it over...then restart and pull. I seem to like keeping the ford on level terrain, but John will handle my slopes fine. My situation lets me leave the stumps in place normally. Thanks for the tip...Mora

[lastchancegarage]

Little John, As I stated, "...for a one man operation". That's usually how it goes around here. Just make sure the rope is long enough in case the weight brings the tree down all at once and you can't get to your other machine. Tough way to lose sheet metal, especially when you have to watch it in SLOW MOTION! You're lucky not having to stump afterwards. I've done the cutting down and stumping afterwards and that sucks. After I tried letting the tree rip the roots out, I'll never go back to the old method. Just remember, there's always a better mousetrap! Good luck.

Scott

[lastchancegarage]

One more thing I kind of glossed over was the "...attach some beefy rope as high on the tree as possible..." I don't like climbing that high in the trees to set the rope. What I've had good luck doing is using one of my kids starter fishing poles with a small lead weight, I'll cast over a limb about 30 to 35 feet up. The pole is only about 2.5 ft so it's pretty easy to aim. Then I attach some lightweight nylon cord (try to use slippery nylon, parachute cord snags on the bark too much) to the weight and reel it back over. With the other end of the nylon cord attached to the beefy rope I just pull it over, make a slip knot, pass the other end of the beefy rope through it and run it up to the limb. You'd be amazed how much additional torque you can put on the root systems by placing the rope that much higher. Hope this helps.

[Little John]

LastChance, I know what you mean about 'solo'...kids gone here now too. But, it is nice not to wonder if they stayed where you said, when the action starts. The rope attachment at height is a key ingredient for sure. I've so far climbed or laddered up when using a rope to pull. That is one reason I like the push method. I have thought of the fishin' pole/casting method but not tried it. Glad to hear it works, may try it on a dead oak next month. Ladders and dead trees don't mix well here. I also thought that a bow and arrow could be a method to get over a high limb/fork. May have to dig out my old lemon wood 25lb long bow and try it. Thanks and bye for now.