Chain saw fuel tank cleaning

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed Dec 11, 2013 4:49 pm

Hi:
To keep it simple., I inherited a Jonsered 52e chainsaw that had gas left in it so long that the paint lining peeled. I was able to get most of the paint out, but there is a lot of corrosion left behind. I added some xylene and washers and shook to loosed any remaining paint and corrosion, and dumped out the loose bits. I wire brushed the dry tank as best I could, but don't really like the results. I've bought a new felt fuel filter, and fuel lines, and rebuilt the carb.

Any thoughts on other things I can do to clean up the tank better?

I read about fuel tank re-sealers that use multiple coats of isocyanate binders to coat the tank, but would like to get the insides smoother first.

What have others of you done in this situation? Thanks. Paul

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Dec 11, 2013 5:28 pm

If you can take the tank off, take it to a good rad shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner, that really takes the gunk out. My guy in town will even seal the tanks for me after he cleans them.
Lavoy

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Dec 11, 2013 5:53 pm

I have also had good luck with radiator shops cleaning and repairing fuel tanks; however the ones I know will only take diesel fuel tanks. I assume something with their insurance prohibits them from working on gasoline fuel tanks as they mentioned the safety issues to me.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:39 pm

Thanks for the ideas, but the tank is an integral part of the saw's aluminum casting, so no simple tank removal possible. I'd prefer not to split the casting since it means a full dis-assembly involving the cylinder barrel, head, and crankshaft, etc.

Other ideas?

johnHD · Post by **johnHD** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:38 pm

paul,

depending on what kind of terms you are on with the better half, you might try a handfull of 1 inch drywall screws in the tank. put the cap on and wrap it up in a blanket with packing tape then toss in the clothes dryer on air dry for an hour or two. (laundry mat at 2 am might be a better idea)

if you prefer domestic bliss, you could try what an associate did and bungie corded a motorcycle tank with screws in it to the rear wheel of his lawn tractor on jacks to rotate.

john

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:43 am

Thanks John: The bungee cord idea could work for me - dryer's brand new. Peace at home - priceless.
Any way, I used sheet metal screws with some kerosene and shook by hand and got some positive results, so it appears that more time shaking will be more helpful. I used a plug of clay in the fuel line and vent holes to seal up the tank. We'll see what happens. Paul

pop pop · Post by **pop pop** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:56 pm

i have done this several times using my small cement mixer , add enough sharp gravel, rocks, water and soap in the gas tank to create a thin slurry.
about 10 minutes worth did the trick each time for me.
your chainsaw will fit IN the mixer so use a blanket like suggested.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:02 pm

using my small cement mixer

Another possibility for me.

I have plenty of old blankets and a mixer. I like the way the 3/8" X 8 sheet metal screws fit in the tank with kerosene to form the abrasive/lubricating mix. One of these days I won't be working so much and can give it a try and I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks. Paul

PTO John · Post by **PTO John** » Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:26 pm

Can not remember for sure, but think I have used one of those saws. Did have a 50 cc size class Jonsered once give a splutter and then reverse rotation of the chain in the middle of a cut. Still not sure how that is possible.

Best, (or worst) memory of Jonsered saws of that era when the tank and crankcase were a single unit, was opening the gas cap and having boiling gasoline come out. One way of cleaning out the tank??

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:20 am

Hi,

A 2 stroke engine cares not which way it spins......

Stan

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:14 am

Best, (or worst) memory of Jonsered saws of that era when the tank and crankcase were a single unit, was opening the gas cap and having boiling gasoline come out. One way of cleaning out the tank??

I've used the older Jonsereds (they were of industrial quality; 90, 70, 621, 52e, etc.) since the 1970s and have cut a lot of wood with them. I can't remember one reversing direction, but I've had them "boil over" as well. I happens when the ball valve in the vent system sticks or the tank vent tube outlet gets plugged with goop. This pressurizes the fuel tank as the fuel heats up with use, resulting with released gasses when the pressure is reduced as the cap opens just like in a soda bottle. Once I learned this, I paid more attention to keeping these items clean and functioning properly; means less gas on my gloves, hands and leg.

Still have the saw tank project on hold due to other priorities.
Happy new year.
Paul

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:52 am

Assuming the tank is aluminum and one piece, try removing the fuel line and pouring lacquer thinner in there. That is nasty stuff. If it's a 2-piece tank with a gasket, I wouldn't leave it in more than 5 minutes.

digitup2 · Post by **digitup2** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:57 pm

That is Right Stan any 2 stroke can run backwards heck if you shut a Detroit Diesel off just right and give it fuel back on at just the right time they will run backwards every time .We did that with the old whiz bang motors (8 V71 TTA's that were the 475 HP version and just after going whiz would go bang!!) I had two 1981 Louisville Ford 's and just for fun years ago when we didn't know how hard it was on them till Later years I have heard how hard it was on oil pumps and the like I guess you get old and wise long after the school of hard knocks By the way Watch on some of the Johnsered's they would suck in a wood chip in the chain oil and shear off the oil pump shaft so keep real clean chain oil in them We ran several till we went to all Stihl saws.Digitup.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Fri May 23, 2014 5:47 pm

Ok, It's spring, so time to get all the small engines up to snuff. Spent an afternoon changing out fuels, tuning carbs, gapping plugs, cleaning/replacing air and fuel filters and just getting machines ready for whatever tasks come up (I hate when I need a tool and it won't start or run properly).

Anyway, I guess I've been behind the times and I'm just learning about the damage that alcohol blended gas can/will do to small engines, fuel tanks, carburetors, etc.

So now the questions:
What do you guys use to run your small engines; two strokes, four strokes, and just as importantly your gas crawlers?
Do you favor non-alcohol gas even though it has higher octane, and why or why not? What stabilizers do you prefer, and how long do you trust them to do their job?
And did I miss some other consideration? I have about 13 small engines I keep going, and after the mess with the 52e saw, I want to be proactive and avoid preventable damage if possible - it's cheaper and less annoying in the long run.

As usual, thanks in advance. Paul

JimAnderson · Post by **JimAnderson** » Fri May 23, 2014 6:09 pm

Paul,
For what its worth,I run non ethanol fuel,Stabil and octane booster
in my Stihls. Chainsaws are like racing engines and everything I read
says stay away from ethanol fuels in two stroke gas engines.Stabil and
cheap pump gas in all my tractors.I haven't had any problems with
fuel issues in any of the many gas tractors I run.Most were made to run
on low octane fuels and valve recession hasn't been a problem yet.
When mixed in the right amount(what Stabil suggests) the gas I run
seems to be good for over six months.I sniff the fuel tanks periodically
and can smell it when the gas goes bad.Hope this helps.
Luck,JimAnderson

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