440 icd falling apart

[emichaelhaynes]

started stripping the right side so i can redo the steering clutches and final drive bearings and seals and other goodies...

the first job was splitting the chain. after all the horror stories this one was pretty simple since someone used a one inch bolt for the master pin. A little help from my good friend Mr. Victor 100 and...


seems i'm in luck. all five bottom rollers are in great shape, ditto the upper idler. the front idler... well, uh, looks like i'll be making some more bushings and maybe turning a shaft down.


the next job was to pull the track frame. seems that of the eight bolts holding the front crossmember to the track frames only three remain, the other five having been broken off long ago. those three remaining bolts are all on the left side by the way...

that outer clamp is actually loose in case you're wondering


just before it started pouring rain...


just how far we're gonna go this time around...


stay tuned
michael

[lastchancegarage]

Mike,
How tough was it to remove that right frame? Did you have to heat the front crossbar mount at all? I've seen some pretty intense rigs for removing the rear crossbar but you did it with a puller. Had the frame been off that you know of before you got the machine? My front crossbar had broken bolts also. I hope mine comes off like yours. Good luck with the rest of the project.

Scott

p.s. Nice pair of housings...want to get rid of them????

[emichaelhaynes]

Scott,

The original title of this post was "440 icd falling apart". Thats how easy it was. The most difficult part was removing the master "pin". As mentioned above it was a one inch bolt with a one inch nut that had been cross drilled and locked with a five-sixteenths bolt and nut. Used a rosebud to heat each part up to orange-yellow. A sixteen pound sledge did the final "pin" extraction.

The track frame hasn't been off for awhile judging by how badly the clamp bolts had eroded. Both cross member sockets were full of northwest clay which this time of year is as hard as warm butter. Heat would have turned that clay into stone.

Still got the left side to go. Success is a measure of persistence more than anything else.

The money shot...


Whats wrong with this picture? Notice something missing? Like teeth?


And this pic? It's a little tough to tell if you're not familiar with it. There used to be a pilot that rides in a bearing in the output shaft on the end of this shaft. Guess where it is now.


About that shaft... Got a spare one at home. Odd thing is the pilot is undercut where it joins the shaft. Looks like a designated weak spot. Got a feeling the left side is broken as well. Was thinking about drilling it and inserting a hardened dowel till I saw that. Provided I could find a fifteen millimeter dowel. Now I think I'll turn the dowel as well.

stay tuned,
michael

[Lavoy]

Looks like you have some of the optional "toothless" fiber discs.
Lavoy

[emichaelhaynes]

moving right along...

Final installment in my "strip the right side saga". As you can see I did get the steering clutch housing off. Almost talked myself out of it but after making such a noble statement 'bout being persistent...



Can I interest anyone in a slightly used vintage housing?



The secret to removing the housing is (not necessarily in order)...

1) remove the quill
2) remove the studs
3) if you got an 831 loader and that last bolt is protruding, back it off.

At this point the only thing holding the housing is two dowels. One good snatch will get it.

sleeve? what !#@!$ sleeve?
michael

[emichaelhaynes]

Not nearly as bad as I thought. The bushing that used to reside in the bore nearest the camera is actually down in the middle. Somebody should have put a spacer in there to prevent this situation. There's nothing in the parts catalog so nobody but Deere is to blame. I'll make a single bushing to span the entire width of the hub. Have no idea how much grease is wasted filling the void in the middle of the hub. No point in finding out.



michael

[Lavoy]

The bushing is supposed to be a fairly tight press fit, that is why no spacer. Not sure if you could build the indside of the hub up and rebore it.
Lavoy

[emichaelhaynes]

No need to build up the hub, its round with no sign of wear. It may or may not be oversize, I'll turn a new bushing to fit. Oddly enough, the shaft has some scoring in the middle, the section that rode in the bushing shows minor wear, and the section that rode in the unbushed bore has some corrosion but no wear.

michael

[frozendozer]

iam working on replacing my clutch, and iam at the point of having mine hanging as well. However mine wasnt as loose as your may have been. I broke off the head of one bolt. I tapped it with a hammer...lightly, and there is no moment. I think i got all the bolts off, but want to check if I need to remove the skidd plate and get at bolts there? Is there any bolts back there.

I think i see some in your pic, but iam not sure if those are holes for bolts.

Any advice you can give me is appreciated, i am a rookie.

[emichaelhaynes]

if you're referring to having the final drive hanging...

There are two bolts underneath the clutch housing. They are threaded into the final drive housing so nothing shows from outside. If you have the rear skid plate (lucky dog) you'll need to drop it to get at them. Or at least that's what I hear (not a lucky dog by any means).

I am glad to say that I'm up and running for these past two weeks after having rebuilt both sides and replacing the hydraulic valve and repacking the boom cylinders. Wife is tickled pink that it's finally earning it's keep.

Sad to say I gotta take the right side back off so that I can among other things retrieve a half inch socket.

I'll post more pics when I can catch my breath...

michael

[frozendozer]

ive made progress.

after taking off the back skidd plate, and removing the two bolts off from the back, the final drive came off nice and easy.

Right away I could see that the brake band was broken, with a piece of linkage broken, as well as the brake band.

The throw out bearing seemed to have packed it in tho, with the retaining cap screww being shorn off the bearing carrier, how ever the stud is still there.. It looked like it had been repaired before, as i could see where someone had tried to repair the cam by welding a small amount on the ends of the slots.

the clutch seemed to be in good shape, all the steel plates snd fiber disks seemed like new.

Iam making a list of things i need to get, and its starting to look like this.

break band
carrier bearing (if i cant remove the boken retaining bolt).

MY question however is,,,,
why would the brake band break, it was boken in three pieces, as well as breaking some linkaga?

if the bearing careeer were to break off the stude, would that make it impossible for the clutch to work?

can you explain how the clutch cam and carrer bearing work?

Can you point me to some one that sells that kinda stuff?


thanks in advance

[Lavoy]

At least some of the parts are listed on the parts page of the main site, if you don't see what you need, or need used parts, just call or e-mail.
Lavoy

[emichaelhaynes]

frozendozer,

don't usually get in till after eleven. thought somebody else would have chimed in by now. but i'll do what i can...

don't have a clue about the broken brake band. not clear on what you're trying say about the rest. one picture could clear it all up.

sounds like you need a parts manual. brad kahler is a member of this site that will sell you a cd or two chock full of manuals for most of the two cylinder crawlers. if you just want specific manuals try jdtechinfo.com.

as for how it works...

there's three pairs of cups with a ball bearing between each pair. three cups are fixed in place on the large casting every rides in the other three are in the cam. as the cam is rotated the ball bearings roll from the center of the cups toward the edges and the cam moves outward.

Lavoy sells new, used, and repro parts (how are the floorboards doing?). Crawler Heaven has it if he doesn't. As a last resort take a wheel barrow full of cash to your local yellow box er, John Deere dealer. Ebay is a good source if you know what you're looking for (get that parts manual) but you're gonna have to compete with me and every one else on the planet for the more popular items.

thats about all my brain can handle right now
michael

[Lavoy]

The footrests are cut and broke, need to finish dimplling them and prime.
Lavoy

[frozendozer]

here's some pics from my tear down, the side i thought was a clutch problem was actually a seal failure on the final drives. the result was that all the gear oil got spread over the clutch disk and brake band.

The clutch disks all look real good, after i cleaned the grease off, and iam wondering about re-using them. Would it be ok? should i replace with new?.

I know Ive got it tore down and could replace everything, but i cant really spend money where its not needed, any advice would be much appreciated.

iam trying to figure how to send a pic