Works in progress

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:44 pm

Finally got some pics of the toys. I know the D is not a crawler but I could only imagine what a tank that would be if Deere made a crawler out of it. The D was bought early spring 07 and is currently waiting on a new head. My brother and I did not plan on buying anything else for a while (cause I am just finishing college and he is getting married and a year or so) but i happened to see this little gem sitting behind a fence at a boat yard. Well the short story is that we called the # in the window and found out that the building was in foreclosure and the new owner was taking over that week. So about a week later we were driving home with this 1950 JD MC with a wagner loader. The engine was out of it and has been mag'ed for cracks and the crank has been turned. All new gaskets and other various parts came with the crawler. I also have some vintage ads that coame with it too. All in all we did think we did too bad for 1600. THe undercarrage shows very little wear and the brakes work pretty good. Let me know what you think.[/img]

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:49 pm

Hi,

Looks like a couple nice projects there.

Just in case you don't already know, that MC has the early Lindeman track pads on it, and they're on backwards. Well, I can't see the right side pads in those shots, so that side might be on correctly with the 'grouser' part to the rear as viewed on the top side. The left side is backwards, though and I bet so are the rights. You might want to turn the rails around at some point during the rebuilding process. Those style pads tend to get torn up when run backwards....

Stan

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:55 pm

Yea, that was one of the first things I asked the gerat knowledge of JD Crawlers. And the right side is on backwards too. The plan is to flip the tracks before the engine is finished up and I take her for the initial test run.

NNAATZ · Post by **NNAATZ** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:23 am

I had one of these MC's with a gearmatic blade, it was real fun. Your's is all ready in better shape than mine was after i got it going

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:24 pm

I WANT THOSE PADS, WOWOWOWOWOWOW.
Lavoy

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:49 pm

Those are the 10 inch, is there any way to find out if that track size is correct for the crawler. is it true that these tracks also fit the lindeman crawlers or the just look alike.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:10 am

MC's could have either 10", 12", or 14" pads, as well as snow pads in a couple of those sizes.
Yes the pads are the same as the BO Lindeman, and they should be, that is the correct pad for the MC. The flat pad did not come out until the 40, although you will see MC's and Lindemans with 40 style pads on them, it is not correct.
The pads you have are the original style that use a special carriage bolt. In later years, a replacement pad came out that was noticeably thicker and heavier, and used a hex bolt instead of the carriage bolt.
I really like the looks of a nice tall set of BO/MC pads like that, really stands out nice.
One thing you may not have known, but with the 10" pads, you can turn the deep dish sprockets in, and have a crawler that is only 4' wide to the outside of the pads.
Lavoy

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:34 am

Ok we were wondering if it was possible to to narrow the the track width. Thanks

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:19 pm

I was looking up close at this picture the other day and noticed that these pads have the regular hex bolts in them. I know Lavoy was saying that aftermarket pads had plain hex bolts in them, so does that make these aftermarket or are they factory style pads that somebody replaced the carrige bolts with hex bolts. Also what is going to be the best way to turn the tracks around (cause I don't want to bend any of the pads with them being on backwards) without "spliting" the tracks. And finally can I just turn them around and put them back on the side they came off of or do they have to be exchanged side for side. As always thanks or all the excellent information!!!

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:05 am

If the pads you have are the ones with round holes, they are not aftermarket, just are the later pads. They are also thicker than the carraige bolt pads as well.
It is difficult at best to pull a track off without splitting it, is there any particular reason that you don't want to split it?
Tracks can go back on the side they came off of, no need to swap side to side.
Lavoy

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:28 am

From what I have read on the fourm it sounds like is is difficult to split the track unless you have the special tooling and a press. I may just be confused on what I am reading but I just don't want to damage the tracks in any way. Part of my problem is I just need to break down and but the MC manual suppliment.f

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:06 pm

I don't know about the MC, but generally there is a master pin that is retained by a C-clip that can be driven out with a hammer or sledgehammer (if you're lucky). It will look a little different than the other pins. You may have to look close to see the difference and maybe get some of the dirt off of them to tell.

I've been really lucky with my master pins in that I only needed to use a small sledgehammer without the use of torches or a press.

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 5:27 pm

In the event that I may damage the pin (Either with the sledge or my air-hammer) is that pin available, or is it something I could turn out on the lathe. This really kinda sucks being up here at college and the crawler is at home, I am getting a major itch to work on it. The majority of my Thanksgiving break is getting devoted to putting the "new" engine we bought off e-bay in (as long as we are ahead with harvesting our corn and beans). With all the great information everyone on the site has given me should make fairly easy work or this project.

wwattson · Post by **wwattson** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:44 pm

You know it depends on where you're going to school as to supporting your crawler habit. If you're going to Michigan State, they should let you keep it in your dorm room. If you're at Michigan Tech, you'd be the coolest guy on campus if you just brought it up to the UP to commute to class.

The pins are pretty hard and would require that you turn them out and then have them induction hardened to Rockwell C 55 - 60 range. I'm pretty sure that Lavoy can help you out with replacements and I'm guessing they're in the $35 - $40 range. There's plenty of posts on here about removing pins and if there's anything I learned, it's plenty of heat on both links and give it heck. If it's not moving, you probably need more heat.

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:17 pm

Well here at Ferris State they would have no problems with me driving the old crawler or D to the bar or class (aside from tearing the hell out out of the street) but I have no way of trailering it, plus my brother (co-owner) probably would not be tickeled about me doing all kinds of work on it without him. But this being my last year of school, I will have some time to get the crawler and the D back in the field. Hopefully I will have some pics of the crawler on it's maiden voyage after Thanksgiving with the tracks facing the correct direction.

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