Kemp 440 Project questions?

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jeff Kemp
420 crawler
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Location: Carleton, MI

Kemp 440 Project questions?

Post by jeff Kemp » Sat Apr 12, 2008 6:14 pm

I got my finals off and apart today. I found that the inner seal was gone and it leaked gear lube into the clutches and brake band. The brake band was down to the rivets. Is there anyone who sells these redone?

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Does anyone have any ideas how to get that pilot bearing out?

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The inside of the clutch drum was full of gear lube from that seal being bad.

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These fiber clutches were coated with gear lube. Other than that they look pretty good. Do you guys think I should use them or buy new?

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Does anyone know what the thickness of the steel plates should be? What about the pressure plate? I am considering buying new also. Other than the bearings and seals being gone everything else looked ok. The bull gear in the final had some wear on a couple teeth from the bearings being gone but it still looks usable. I don't plan on running a business with it anyhow. Any input would be great. :lol:

RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:46 pm

Sand blast steel disc this will draw most oil out of disk --i have sand blasted fiber disc and had them work --dry sand blast will draw oil out of disc--- if this is not for commerical use this will save you a bunch of money and get you back to your project as for brake band this must be replaced and i'm sure Lavoy has them in stock (I have covered them with Comet household cleaner and let them set for a few days this will also dry the oil) have fun Randy

jeff Kemp
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Carleton, MI

Post by jeff Kemp » Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:33 pm

Thanks for the advice I will try those tips.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:53 am

My personal opinion is it is not possible to remove oil from fiber discs. I cleaned a set once that was spotless and dry. Put the crawler together and two hours later, the clutch gave up. I pulled it apart while the clutch was still hot, and the oil was weeping out of the discs as they got hot. That was the last time I ever reused a fiber disc, I don't like pulling finals that much, and discs are not that expensive, especially if you are going own the crawler for a while. Fix it right, and you are likely done for your lifetime, unless you are using it commercially.
Lavoy

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hunter41mag
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Post by hunter41mag » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:36 am

I agree with Lavoy not to put the oil soaked fiber disc's back in. If you do within a year you will be pulling the final drive off to do it right.
To pull the pilot bearing they (Snap-On, OTC, etc) make a slide hammer with adjustable jaws that will make it easy to remove.
Lavoy should have all the parts you will need (also replace your pressure plate). Also make sure to get the clutch finger height setting gauge and to have a set of 440 JD manuals (service & parts). If you search the posts on this site someone offers the manuals on a cd and also you will find the thicknesses for the disc.
Don
Eastern PA
440IC (1960)

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Mon Apr 14, 2008 1:18 pm

Hi,

I'll add to the advice to *never* reuse oil soaked fiber discs.

I've experienced the same as Lavoy - they grow hot in use and the heat pumps the oil out to the surfaces.

I learned this twice, actually. I figured after the first 'weep out' that was the end of it, re-cleaned them and re-instelled them. Only to have it occur again.

That's when I found out that brand-new fiber discs from the Deere dealer were very cheap indeed! :P

Later!

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 14, 2008 1:36 pm

If you don't have a slide hammer or pilot bearing puller, get a bolt or dowel, or piece of shaft that is the same diameter as the hole. Fill the cavity behind the bearing completely with grease. Put the bolt or whatever in the hole, and hit it with a hammer. You will need to refill the cavity a couple of times, but eventually you will blow the bearing out of the hole.
If the seal or shield pops off the outside of the bearing, then you are out of luck doing it that way, just as well get a torch.
Lavoy

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Tiny Crawler
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Post by Tiny Crawler » Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:19 am

Lavoy,
Oil seal leaked on mine as well,

Do you agree with Sand blasting the metal Disks? I have mine apart now and they mostly rusty not real deep, and was thinking of havening them re-faced? and check the tolerance as stated in the SM, but thought it best to buy new ones and not mess with it.

ouch$$$ since I have both sides apart, "Just do it" and re-bearing, Seal, Disk, Plate, Bushings etc. while I have it off now and make everything like new. and maybe next year, start on the under carriage, My rollers look shoot, any suggesting there as well, I have a parts machine with rollers but haven't gotten to look at their condition yet.

thanks tiny.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:48 am

If the discs are perfectly sound, and all you are doing is cleaning surface rust off, it should be fine. If they are pitted deeply or really rusty, then I would not do it, steel discs are not that expensive.
Lavoy

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hunter41mag
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Post by hunter41mag » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:39 am

Jeff,

In looking at your original post pictures it looks like the battery is not retained properly. I would make sure to have that taken care of before your next time out with it. If not the battery posts may contact the bottom of the gas tank when you go over a bump and cause an unwanted thermal event.
When that happens there is no way to stop it and you will lose a good crawler and anything around it.
Don
Eastern PA
440IC (1960)

jeff Kemp
420 crawler
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Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:06 pm
Location: Carleton, MI

Post by jeff Kemp » Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:35 am

I havn't done much with it since the 1st day I brought it home. I will see how it is bolted in there. Thanks for the heads up.

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