My "new to me" 2010

[RedDirt]

Thanks to all that helped me with my shopping for a Crawler Loader. I looked at 440icd's, a 1010 and this 2010 that is now mine. Great site here and lots of really nice helpful people. I hope I can help too as I learn more about the 2010.

It's a fairly orginal machine by all that I see. Looks like it was upgraded to a one wire alternator, and has an added oil pressure and ammeter guages, that don't work, I'm going to take them out or change them as the orginal guages are in good shape. The tachometer bounces around but doesn't indicate engine speed.

It has a Drott 4in1 bucket that is in good condition and works fine. It has the rippers. The teeth are off in this picture. I don't have the wedges that hold the teeth in so if someone knows a source for these I'm looking.

It's very hard starting but the glow plugs are suspect, one is open and one is low on current a bit. I'm getting 4 new ones. Then just some TLC with filters fluids and tightening a bolt here and there.

It's missing the belly pan (both of them). I see in the manual that the front pan is not optional but the larger rear pan behind the engine is optional. I'm looking for one and will likely try to put them both on.

I'm open to advice and comments. This is my first Crawler and I've owned it for only 1 day.



Thanks again.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi there-

Congrats on the 2010! I know the excitement of bringing it home for the first time and putting it to the test.

I have a few observations based on the photo:

The right track has good pads- the triple bars are not worn down like mine. It also looks like you have been lucky and the previous owner did not torch off the trackframe back towards the sprocket. It does look like you are missing the rock guards- mine is missing them too but Lavoy says they are important for trackframe rigidity. Another thing is that it looks like the adjuster is at the end of its ranger (fully forward on the tackframe near the front idler) and the track is still loose so you may be in need of track work. If you drive it loose like that, it is likely over time you will throw a track during a turn or on uneven ground.

It is really nice you have the 4 in 1 bucket and the scarifier (ripper). It does look like the scarifier is partially homemade- the scarifier tooth bar looks originally but the frame and culinders look like they were aftermarket construction or homemade. That is not a bad thing, but be aware of it. It also looks like you don't have the shanks (teeth) for the scarifier- my understanding is that they are hard to find.

Maybe Lavoy or others can confirm these observations.

[Lavoy]

I hadn't noticed the scarifier until you mentioned it, but yes I would believe it is shop built as well. Doesn't hurt a thing, might use different shanks than original, but if you have them, no problem.
Lavoy

[RedDirt]

Here is a closer view of the right front (left is similar) track. Can you tell me more about the adjustment length here? Any other experts to help me figure out what I might look to worry about or need to fix here?

On the rippers, I do have 4 shanks. I don't have the wedges I'm used to seeing to hold them in. One shank is a different model. I'll have to sort that out after I do the glow plugs and fuel system clean up and get it starting good.

Thanks.

[Lavoy]

If the wedges are like on the two cylinder stuff, you can make them from 1/2" X 1" strap. They just have a 90 degree bend on the top end, then grind a bevel on the bottom end so they are easier to slip in. The originals are hardened somewhat, but you should not have any problem making them out of plain strap.
Lavoy

[Tigerhaze]

The second picture really helps to see the undercarriage. It looks like the rails are in really good shape and the triple bar pads are as well. The rollers smee like they are in good shape as well. I would think the tracks were redone at some point.

It does look like you do have some travel left on the trackframe for the adjuster- I couldn't tell in the first pic. However it does not look like the track has been tightened in a while as evidenced by the grime on the adjusting rod. You will want to get a grease gun and adjust approx to the specs in the oeprators manual before you slip a track.

If you take a pic of the sprocket (from the edge since you have the sprocket guards on), we can tell you how good they are. Did you have the late model sprockets (can tell from the part number stamped on the sprckets)?

[RedDirt]

I cannot thank you guys enough for the insight you are providing here!

This is the right rear section. The points on the sprockets were dull and rounded. I understand pointed is bad. I compared it to pictures of what I thought a good sprocket would look like and it seemed OK.

Other things in this picture. The rear roller is a newer sealed unit without the top hat grease fitting. In total 5 of the 10 rollers are this type of sealed roller which appears to be a newer model than the one with he guard and the top hat grease fitting. At least this is what I'm thinking at this point. Your can see here that the back roller is different than the next one forward. The back roller also appears to be weaping a bit. I think this is the only one that seems a bit wet. I may be shopping for a roller.

I'm bummed about the rock guards. I didn't know about those until I read the post here. I looked in the parts catalog PC728 and there they are. It's also missing the belly pan, both front and back. I see in one of the manuals that the front pan is required, but the rear pan is optional. I may have found a used pan, maybe I can find some used rock guards. Am I correct in assuming that these lower rock guards are to protect the rollers? Maybe they were removed to replace the 5 rollers and not re-installed? Thoughts on the rock guards and thier importance and impact of them being missing?

[RedDirt]

I don't know early from late. The S/N is 38nnn range. It has the dry type air cleaner (I think this is later in the s/n range). The track pins are 1 1/8" (I think this means later). The tracks are 12" wide. Best I could track down the s/n it looks like 1963. Any other way to determine the late from early? it has right at 5000 hours on the hour meter.

According to the seller he rebuilt the engine. It had cracks in the head at three of the exahust valve seat areas and lost compression and was leaking water to the oil. He gave me the old head and it has cracks for sure. The new head is greeen so it must be from an ag tractor? I seems to run good once I get it started.

I do have one thing that is very strange. The seller says there is a dump valve that dumps the coolant when the outside temp gets to about 40F. It leaks like crazy from the left front end of the transmission cooler under the radiator. Once it warms up it is water tight and doesn't leak. I cannot find such a cold weather dump valve in any of the manuals. I'm not sure about this and it is hard to see into the area where the transmission cooler is to figure out what is up there. Anyone remove and replace a transmission cooler? Hard or critical work?

Thanks again.

[Tigerhaze]

When I refer to a late serial number 2010, I am referring to when they swithced over the undercarriage from small bushing rails (i.e. 1010 style- 1 9/16" bushing dia. and 1" pins) to large bushing rails (i.e. 350 style- 1 3/4" bushing dia. and 1 1/8" pins). The serial number change was at 42,000.

FYI, there were other changes at earlier intervals- for instance the injector system on the diesels changed at a much earlier serial number (somewhere in the 20,000s). Thus it is not cut and dry to look at one piece of a crawler and guess its serial number. Mine was lost when the engine was swapped (another drawback of early serial number 2010s).

It sounds like your crawler was retrofitted with post-42,000 sprockets and has 350 rails. It sounds like you have already figured out you have 350 rails, unless you're not sure about your measurements. The best way to tell about the sprocket is to look at the sprocket serial number- the early sprocket part number is T19007 and the late is T13294. They are embossed on the face of the sprocket- you may not be able to see with the shields on. You are very lucky if you have the later sprockets, as it makes replacing undercarriage much cheaper. If you want to swap with me, I'll give you original sprockets and rails for your serial number machine

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =2010+pins

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =2010+pins

The new rollers are sealed for life and don't get grease. if you want to swap one out now is the time while your undercarriage is new. I remember it being stated several times that the most important thing is that all the rollers on a side are same wear diameter or the rails will not ride smoothly- if you wait you may be past that point. here is some more info about roller wear.

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =2010+pins

As for rock guards, they are meant to keep rocks out of the rollers but Lavoy has stated that they are also critical to structural integrity of the track frames. Having said that, I have used mine without rock guards and haven't noticed any problems. I work in loamy soils so not a problem and have tried to keep abuse to a minimum.

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =2010+pins

As for coolant overflow, I believe my radiator has a small tube at the neck of the radiator just below the pressure cap to allow overflow when hot. I don't know about a valve though.

[jtrichard]

your chains are in great shape where is the s/n at on the the engine? look on the bell housing left side for another one it looks like the upper roller is in the center if it is then your s/n should be over 42000 if it is closer to the rear then it is before 42000 if they changed the engine you might have an early block? you need to pump some grease in the adjusters till you have about 1 inch of sag in the chain on top between the upper roller and the front idler as for the rock guards if you cant find some you can make them out of some truck (semi) frame rails you might find that most of the bolts that held the guards on are broke off i have that problem one one of my 2010s

[jtrichard]

Reddirt one more thing on the piston in the track adjuster there is a grove or line that tells you that there is no more safe adjustment left it looks like that you wont see that for a very long time

[RedDirt]

Thanks for the tip on the s/n location on the bell housing. I'll have to look at that when I get to get back to the unit in a couple of weeks. Today I did look at the left front roller (big wheel), it appears to have a date stamp in the casting of April 1964, which is later than the engine s/n indicates.

The engine s/n is on an aluminum plate, on the side of the block, on the right side just in front of the injector pump.

[jtrichard]

is the s/n tag still on the loader valve box? if so what is the number and i will see if is close to mine my 2010 is over 42000 i will have to look to see what the exact numbers are

[jtrichard]

reddirt if you can take a pic of the left side of the water pump if it has a 1/2 in copper tube going down off of it then you have a second trans cooler and the end cap might be leaking as well as the one in the rad. if not that there is only the lower rad.tank cooler just like a pass. car rad. has and you mght have to pull the rad out and fix the lower tank if you do you will most likely need the rad. mounts they sell at JD for $31 each i can tell you where to get them for $2 each

[RedDirt]

JTRichard,

Yes I have a second tublar cooler below the radiator. It is a transmission cooler according to the parts manual. The leak is only present when very cold and on the left side (looking forward) of transmission cooler.

Is this a hard unit to pull and repair?

There does not appear to be any radiator leaks, it's all well below the frame that the radiator sits on.

Thanks,