440 Project

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440 iron popper
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440 Project

Post by 440 iron popper » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:04 pm

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My 440 parked in the yard after delivery. The paint on the blade didn't last long :lol:

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At the beginning of Fall. Back from the motocross track. I learned the machine during past weeks and found out it will need a bit of work.

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Setup to move the bull in a small garage where I'll do the inspection and rebuild.

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Tear down is going fine. This is after 2 weekends of work from running condition to this point. I found minor things to be done up to now.

When I worked with the dozer in the summer, I had trouble with steering. In the winter I was able to do 360 on both side, no trouble. I guess oil has messed up the clutches. Another thing was that I could hear a grinding noise some times while going in forward. I found out the starter spring that pull the pinion back was broken.

Main clutch throw out bearing is gone.

The reverser has been by passed with an home made coupling... I don't like that very much. I'll be looking for a better one.

Engine was running with poor performance exept for one afternoon in the summer! Before to tear the dozer down I did some testing. I had a bad voltage regulator, bad ignition switch, Wires had sometimes 5 joints not welded, hold togheter with only black tape! And the carb.... I don't think it is matched for the 440. Compression is good 131, 135. So, I eliminated electrical stuff by changing everything. I'm working on a carb that I hope will fit (tsx688 found on a parts 440 loader).

I'll have some more pics soon. Have a good Week!
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
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440 iron popper
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Post by 440 iron popper » Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:07 pm

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Engine removal. I was not shure about the method described in the manual... hook to the front stud and lift it up!! But that was it.


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That's the coupling that holds the shaft going through the reverser to the transmission input shaft... A plumbing fitting between 2 splined adapters welded together. Humm and the flatbar there is for balancing? :roll:
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 04, 2011 4:46 pm

While the Deere manual does say to lift the engine by the front stud, they are using an eyelet with female threads that keeps the stress on the stud completely vertical. I would be careful doing it the way you are, that is putting a lot of twist on only a 7/16" bolt.
Lavoy

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440 iron popper
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Post by 440 iron popper » Mon Apr 04, 2011 5:22 pm

yess you're right but I didn.t have that female eyebolt then... I'm gonna get it this week for reassembly. Stud is O.K. Engine looks more tilted in the picture than it really was!!
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
-------------------------------------------------------

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Post by Lavoy » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:54 am

I have tried to find a lift ring like they show in the manual, but never been able to find one. Guess I will have to make one.
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Post by gus » Tue Apr 05, 2011 11:35 am

Lavoy,
Got a Fastenal catalog? Recently I was looking for something and saw a "eye nut" ring. I looks like an eye bolt, but with a female threaded bottom. They came in all thread sizes any above 1/4" were rated at 850 lbs or more. Priced around $10.00 and up.

There is a "safety engineered center pull hoist ring" in the current MSG flier, but they start at around $70.00

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Post by H-D » Tue Apr 05, 2011 12:51 pm

I found this site listed on MyTractorForum (www.carbrescue.com/intro.html). The poster claimed the individual to be able to resurrect most older carburetors, including the Marvel-Schleber. I figure the flat bar on your coupler was probably intended to be a lube slinger, but then I'm not an engineer. Thanks for the detailed pictures of your work!

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Post by Lavoy » Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:56 pm

I will have to stop and check. Only ones I have been able to find were coarse thread, no fine thread, but had not checked fastenal.
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Post by gus » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:35 pm

Lavoy wrote:I will have to stop and check. Only ones I have been able to find were coarse thread, no fine thread, but had not checked fastenal.
Lavoy
Yes, I just looked in the book and they are coarse thread. Buy a size small and retap??

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Post by Lavoy » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:14 am

That is what I am thinking.
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440 iron popper
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Post by 440 iron popper » Wed Apr 06, 2011 3:27 pm

Thanks H-D for your advice.

I'm gonna check for a female eyebolt in Cat parts at the shop and let you know if get a number for it. If not, plan B as you guys said: retap one!
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
-------------------------------------------------------

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Lu47Dan
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Post by Lu47Dan » Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:49 pm

Lavoy, I had to make my lifting eye. I bought a 3/4"-10TPI forged eye and made a bushing by drilling and tapping a bolt to the correct thread for the stud. This was before I had the lathe, but I managed to do it in the drill press.
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Dan.
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!

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Post by gus » Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:46 am

Lu47Dan wrote:Lavoy, I had to make my lifting eye. I bought a 3/4"-10TPI forged eye and made a bushing by drilling and tapping a bolt to the correct thread for the stud.

I like that even better :P :P :P

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Post by Lu47Dan » Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:46 pm

gus wrote:
Lu47Dan wrote:Lavoy, I had to make my lifting eye. I bought a 3/4"-10TPI forged eye and made a bushing by drilling and tapping a bolt to the correct thread for the stud.

I like that even better :P :P :P
Gus.
I checked a half dozen places for a 7/16 ( I think ) lifting eye. It seems that they did not make one in that thread size. So I bought a 3/4" lifting eye, then used a brand new bolt and drilled and tapped it for the correct thread size. I think it took about 30 minutes to set up , drill and tap, and thread it onto the stud.
Buying the larger eye and bushing it down would be a better option than drilling a smaller eye out to 7/16" - 20TPI ( if I remember correctly) for two reasons.
A. this method does not weaken the forged eye, and B. you can make various sizes of bushings for it.
Dan.
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!

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Post by Lavoy » Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:25 pm

Some place I had found eyelets that are not bored, so you can drill and tap whatever you want. I am going to have to order one and try it.
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