440ICD Rebuild Assembly

[whiteclipse16]

The other thread was getting pretty lengthy so I figured I'd start a new one.
Finally been getting into the assembly phase. Thanks to Lavoy I have all new steering clutches and associated parts. Things are going pretty smooth, man those finals are tough to muscle around.
Enjoy

[JD440ICD2006]

Awesome progess and pics, please keep them coming!

[whiteclipse16]

Thanks 2006.
Just a note, I have the one piece drum that calls for 8 steels, 8 fibers. Lavoy informed me that some will not accept this because the pressure plate fingers won't adjust far enough.
This was true for me.
If using 8 steels, 8 fibers you start with a steel against brake drum. If all 16 won't fit you remove a steel. I removed the first steel that was against the brake drum.
The fact that there is a steel against a steel brake drum doesn't make much sense anyway.
Everything adjusted up great. It seems that the brake band is dragging on the bottom on the final that is installed. I can still spin everything, but it's kind of tight. Anyone else have this experience.

[Lavoy]

There is a tab cast into the inside of the clutch housing to hold the brake band in place. Make sure the band did not jump up on it.
Lavoy

[whiteclipse16]

I'll check the brake band and see if it jumped up on that tab.
Here are a few more pics of the other final on. Got it on and adjusted up last night.

[440 iron popper]

Nice Pics. You're making fast progress there. I see that you made a brake rod of your own. The rod kit you wanted measurements for is buried in snow for now... Yours looks better anyway . Keep posting!

[H Barnes]

Ben, is that the tail end of a midget or a sprite?

[whiteclipse16]

That would be my brothers 68 MGB.
It was a graduation present and very rough. He put a whole rear clip on, front radiator support, and a fender. I think it will turn out pretty good for one that's not professionally done.

[H Barnes]

I have two MGBs, a 70 roadster and a 74 GT, that I would like to restore. They both will have to wait until I put a new bull gear in my 420. I ran over a 6x6 post and it wedged between the track and the final casing. I heard a pop and now I notice a skip once every revolution of the drive sproket. I haven't pulled the bottom off of the final yet to confirm it or to determine how many teeth are on the gear. I am sure a bull gear will be expensive.

[digitup2]

I noticed that also that is a Midget a Sprite had no trunk .I have a 1958 buggeyed Sprite that my wife inherited from her Dad .It was a job but is now totally restored .Digitup.

[whiteclipse16]

Good luck with your bull gear fix Barnes. Most of the ones I have seen are pretty pricey. On the other hand, the small pinion gear in the final seems to be the one that breaks teeth. The bull gears seem to break the inner spline.
The MG should be a fun car when it's done but parts for it are pricey. I redid a 69 Mustang and parts were nowhere what my brother is paying for some of the same things.
I may do another car one day, but I think I'm going to stick with tractors/crawlers. I don't know that I have the patience to do body work again haha.

[whiteclipse16]

Been making progress. Sure seems slow though. Had to drill out all 4 bolts on the center cross bar on one side and make a new shim. That was not easy due to the fact that we couldn't get the side from off of the cross bars and it's extremely difficult to get the drill straight on with the holes.
The other part that's taking forever is redoing the rock guards. The wear bars were in bad shape and in places broke away from the frame. I cut all the bad spots out and welded new in.
Got the track adjusters together finally last night. Getting the correct seals was a pain. The part numbers for the rod and tube match the book but seal numbers are not correct for cross referencing.
You can see from the pics the springs need some work. The one that's apart was the worst, the nut was almost rusted in two.









I know the two adjuster tubes are different. The one on the left is from the set I bought (had to buy a set because my tubes were shot). I don't understand why, they are both the same part number and inner dimensions are the same and am told the left is off a 440 but who knows. Everything is the same except for outside diameter of the one.

[whiteclipse16]

Worked on the hour meter over the weekend. I was going to use the original meter because it still worked good, but the face was in rough shape. I located a second one that only worked intermittently, so I took both apart. I was pretty surprised at what I found. It turns out that there is a set of contacts, and when they close it applies power to the coil. When the coil has power the magnetic field moves and arm which "winds up" the meter. When this happens the contact opens and the meter counts. After about 1 min. the counter has wound down and the contact closes and it winds up again if there's power applied from the oil pressure switch. Pretty neat actually.
Anyway, I oiled up the newer meter and it is working much better now so I decided to use it. Also the contact on my original meter is burnt and worn pretty badly.

Coil and arm that "winds meter."

Contact (shown in open position). This is on my meter, badly worn.

Date stamp on my original hour meter


Rock Guards I've been working on.

[440 iron popper]

Thanks for sharing. The hour meter cannot be more mechanical . That adds originality to your rebuild. I guess very few of them works today. This is really cool.

[JD440ICD2006]

Ben,

Great pics and progress, keep them coming please!