Removing a broken bolt the easy way
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Deleted: I got tired of looking at my poor joke whenever I checked this thread. Paul
Last edited by Paul Buhler on Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:23 am, edited 2 times in total.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:53 pm
- Location: Columbus Ohio
Some great tips here. Someone makes a welding rod just for this purpose, Extractalloy I think it's called. I've seen my dad take out many bolts that were broken halfway down the hole, welding straight out without letting the arc touch the sides, then putting a nut at the surface and welding to that. He's good at it though.
broken bolts
another way i use quite frequently is heat red hot with a rose bud torch quench with cold water or let cool over night and have done all that have been mentioned.
jim
jim
The rods I have used for pulling studs or bolts are Supermissleweld and High Ally 400 (might be 500, can't remember). They are a high elongation stainless with a super tough flux, the arc will not blow out throw the flux if you touch the side of the hole with the rod.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
If doable, I would be inclined to pull the rest of the bolts and get the manifold off, then see if you can get at the broken stud. I normally try not to use this method out of position, but that may be more a function of my welding skills.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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