350B problem

[350guy]

Hi:

I'm new here and this is my first machine. I think it is a 1968 JD 350-B crawler loader. It was working fine, now it won't make it up a hill. I filled the transmission oil. It was low. It seemed to help somewhat, but it still won't climb the hill anymore.

I really don't know anything about the machine, so please excuse any dumb questions or my lack of understanding you gurus.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[rjamesh2008]

adjust them clutches and brake bands like i was advised from this site from some of these good fellas and get a set of books ,, the service manual is good but the technical manual iss better ,, as for the parts manual ,, look for it online for free http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt
unless you want a papercopy,,, other then that good luck,, it doesnt take long to adjust then bout twenty minutes when you get both plates off taking your timeand the right tools to help,,,,,,, peace out,, the rock

[pdmech08]

350guy: Best advice, Get the manuals. You can try adjusting the steering. If the steering clutches are too tight they will slip. However if the trans. was run low on oil and the reverser clutches were slipping, they may have been damaged and may need replacement. If you have any other questions feel free to email me directly. Good Luck. Steve.

[RANDY Fay]

Steve is on the right track--I would change oil and filter---cut filter apart a see what junk is stuck in plets if it looks like ground up pennies it's not them are dollar bills o deere with new filter and oil check presure if pressure is down try shims in control valve to boost it back up (center plug in bottom of control valve under left side of reverser) if presure does not come up internal damage has been done be sure manuel transmission is in N while working on this valve don't like to hear of anyone getting hurt while working on these things have fun Randy

[jdemaris]

Hi:

I'm new here and this is my first machine. I think it is a 1968 JD 350-B crawler loader. It was working fine, now it won't make it up a hill.

You've got to find out what's actually slipping first. Have you tried putting the gear-transmission in reverse, and the hydraulic reverser also in reverse - and THEN going forward? If that makes a difference, it at least tells you there's a reverser problem. If so, check the operating pressure, open the rate-of-shift screw if necessary, and check the return spring on the clutch-pedal.

A another check is - put the gear-trans in 4th gear and lock the foot-brake. This will really make it slip for a test. Then - find a way to look in back - either at ring gear - or down inside either of the steering-clutch housings. This way, you'll know how far back power is making it when slipping.

[RANDY Fay]

It's very on lickly both steering clutches would slip exactly the same amount and not cause the loader to turn one way or the other before it stopped and as the 350 B dose not have eng clutch it sure would make ya think it would be reverser have fun Randy

[350guy]

Thank you for all the advice. One thing I did notice is that the clutch catches right at the top. I pulled the floor plates up and cleaned out the dirt, branches and acorns so I can see the controls. Is there a way to adjust the clutch? I don't see where it would be.

Also, the gear pattern is worn off so I don't know where reverse is or any other gear.

Mark

[rjamesh2008]

ok man this is on mine,,, starting on the left side bottom is 2nd gear ,,, middle forward is 3rd gear ,,, midlle bottom is 4th,,, and right forward is 1st gear ,, and right bottom is reverse gear ,, hope this helps you rocky

[rjamesh2008]

sorry for the second post ,, but you can adjust your clutches and brake bands at the same time ,, one for each side ,, look under the seat,, dont know whether you have the power assisted clutches or not on your model ,, but each side over the left and right side is a plate with 4 bolts easy access and can work with wrenches in there too ,,, if you down have the books yet,,, pm me and ill type up the procedure on how to adjust them ,, but one thing is good bout these plates are that you can see if you have any kind of moisture in there and tell whether you have seal broken between the two housing since this is a dry clutch system ,,it all should be dry ,, any oil {{{broken seal some wheres ,, either ring and pinion side or final side ,, like me right now ,, just waiting for the parts }}},but this is a good quick easy place to start before going on to the next ruling out of what can be the problem next ,, i will let you know that minus housing and quill for a final and shipping from new york to louisiana , i paying right at 900 for a complete seal and bearing kit ,, new seals forthe ring and pinion side ,, and all new steering clutch plates adn throw out bearing ,, so if you pln to go into either side this is teh cost at the present time to be completly brand new parts except for any gears or shafts that might be worn as well ,, i wish you the best of luck ,, and hit me up if you need any help from the book till you get yours,, rocky

[RANDY Fay]

Mark there is no eng. clutch-- the clutch pedal only works a hyd. dump valve if the pedel was not comming all the way back to the stop this could be you problem have fun Randy

[jdemaris]

Thank you for all the advice. One thing I did notice is that the clutch catches right at the top. I pulled the floor plates up and cleaned out the dirt, branches and acorns so I can see the controls. Is there a way to adjust the clutch? I don't see where it would be.

Also, the gear pattern is worn off so I don't know where reverse is or any other gear.

Mark

In regard to the foot pedal linkage, two things can happen that are common with 350s. Debris can get stuck in the linkage-arm that prevents the clutch-valve from closing all the way, and the big return spring hooked to it has been overstretched and too weak. Main thing to look for - is if it's travelling as far as it can - and there's no dirt or twigs stuck in there.

As far as other adjustments - besides the clutch main pressure, you've also got the rate-of-shift jet-screw that sometimes has to be opened up a bit as a machine gets worn. Also, the adjuster-bolt and nut that determines accumulators stroke-length. That is not easy to get to, but can be done from the outside if necessary. If that is out of adjustment, you won't get smooth shifts from forward to reverse. It will sort of start to shift, hang-up, and then snap-in with a jerk. We had to change it in many new Cs before they went out the door.

About reverse in your gear transmission. I'm not even sure you have it. It was left out of some of the last 350Bs made- and if it was left out, the shift quadrant won't be cut-out for it. The 1010s and 350s up to the late Bs had the hydraulic reverser as an option only - so all gear transmissions had reverse. But, then Deere made the reverser standard equipment and clutch drive was no longer available. When they did that, the removed reverse from the gear transmission. That's why Cs don't have it.