Welding Track Frames

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squarede
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Welding Track Frames

Post by squarede » Fri May 23, 2008 4:50 pm

Can anyone give a recomendation for welding rod to use to repair a crack in the track frames on my 350 dozer?
I have a Lincoln AC arc welder and I don't know much about welding but like to try.
Thanks for the advice.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Fri May 23, 2008 7:55 pm

Probably 7018, although I don't think 6013 or 6011 would hurt a thing. Vee the crack out a bit, surface welding over a crack usually does not do any good.
Lavoy

squarede
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Post by squarede » Fri May 23, 2008 10:38 pm

Lavoy,
Thanks for the reply.
That's about what my plan was, to grind it out, start with a 6011 and then cover with a 7018.
It probably wont be beautiful, but I'm pretty handy with a grinder!

jdemaris

Re: Welding Track Frames

Post by jdemaris » Sat May 24, 2008 6:20 am

squarede wrote:Can anyone give a recomendation for welding rod to use to repair a crack in the track frames on my 350 dozer?
I have a Lincoln AC arc welder and I don't know much about welding but like to try.
Thanks for the advice.
Deere Company told us to use 7018 for all track frame structural repairs, and a variety of hard-surfacing rods over the 7018 in areas where metal needed to be built up. It's all we used in our shop and never had any problems with bad-welds. Track frames are not made from mild steel - thus the need for 7018. The same rod works well with cast-steel parts like the cross-bar the holds the track-frames.

Later 350s - e.g. 350Cs wear something awful because the track-frames float and we spent the bulk of most winters just welding up 350 track-frames and cross-bars.

7018 is a low-hydrogen, medium penetrating rod. So, it doens't work well unless stored in a dry area; it soaks up moisture something awful and then does not weld very well. Also, since it's a medium-penetrating rod - it won't work well in very thin areas (if you have any). For thin metal areas - we used high-deposit, low-penetrating rod rated for high-alloy steels and cast steels. It's sold under many different names but the weld-bead looks like stainless-steel when done. Last stuff I bought was called "Weldalloy." It's not cheap, but is one of best for welding high-alloy steels or dis-similar metals.

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wwattson
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Post by wwattson » Sat May 24, 2008 6:53 am

I just welded the piece of track frame Lavoy sent me onto the front of the right side frame. I ground a vee on both pieces and welded it with 7018. It turned out really good and I doubt you'll be able to see the repair once I'm done.

I started using 7018 when I was welding some 1045 medium carbon steel and I like it much better than the 6011. It produces a much smoother bead without the spatter you get with 6011. The low hydrogen of the 7018 makes it a better choice if it is a higher carbon content steel. Preheat doesn't hurt either.
Bill Wattson

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Post by brettjones » Sat May 24, 2008 11:12 am

So for those of use using MIG, what wire is recommended?
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch

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Fitter274
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Post by Fitter274 » Sat May 31, 2008 10:17 am

When using an AC arc welder, you should use welding rods designated for AC or AC/DC. There is a 7018 rod just for AC, I think its 7018-ac. Just my 2 cents worth. Brian :wink:

jdemaris

Post by jdemaris » Sat May 31, 2008 11:06 am

Fitter274 wrote:When using an AC arc welder, you should use welding rods designated for AC or AC/DC. There is a 7018 rod just for AC, I think its 7018-ac. Just my 2 cents worth. Brian :wink:
7018 is an AC/DC rod - not a dedicated AC rod. It does NOT work well with several low-voltage AC welders and is primarily designed for high-voltage AC welding and DC reverse-polaritly welding. When it becomes slightly contaminated with moiseture, the DC makes a noticeable difference.

I don't know the specs with all the welders - but in our shop - the best welds came from our Lincoln with reverse-polarity DC. On AC - our Deere and Lincoln worked OK, and our Century AC welder made very poor welds with 7018.

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Post by OneWelder » Sat Jun 07, 2008 5:40 pm

Actually you are both right- The traditional 7018 is as jdemaris stated-but
in recent years -they also came out with an ac version quite often refered to as Easy Start.
Also 6010 & 6011 are sometimes right and some times wrong ,when used as a root bead- it depends on makeup of the rod and the material.
A very small dia. rod or backup bar is a safer approach when exact comp. is unknown
try to keep your arc gap same as rod dia.

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Update

Post by squarede » Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:29 am

Thanks for all the replies to my post. i learned a lot.
I ending using 6013 for the first passes -it was easier for me to weld vertical with. I finished off with 7018. It took a long time and a lot of rod, but it's been a couple of weeks of logging since the repair and it seems to be holding quite well.
Now on to my next welding project -rebuilding the blade.

jdemaris

Post by jdemaris » Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:58 am

OneWelder wrote:Actually you are both right- The traditional 7018 is as jdemaris stated-but
in recent years -they also came out with an ac version quite often refered to as Easy Start.
The AWS E7018 is just that - and nothing more - as far as I know and have read in AWS tables. Made for AC or DC-reverse polarity.

But, over the years - AWS has allowed many more designations added to the end - e.g. H, HR, M, etc. And several companies add their own code to the name. So, it gets complicated.

That being said - as far as I know - E7018 only means one thing. Now - buy E7018-1, E-7018-HR, E-7018-H, etc. - and - you've got a variation.

And, then there's E8018, E9018, E11018, etc. etc.

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