Coolant in oil on JD350C

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Tue Sep 21, 2010 3:36 am

I haven't used the crawler for a couple years, and when i checked the oil it was very milky. I am assuming (and hoping) it is only a head gasket. Is there anything tricky about pulling the head and putting in a new head gasket (if that turns out to be the problem)? I am going to put in a new thermostat. How about the exhaust manifold. Easier to remove it? If so, I will put in new bolts for that. Anything else I should know? Thanks.

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Tue Sep 21, 2010 9:30 am

Let me refine: Is there anything bear-trap-like that is different or unusual with these engines/machines that might/will bite me in the butt?
My machine sat for two years while I tried to get the reverser fixed. Now this. I am starting to move dirt in my dreams.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 21, 2010 12:59 pm

The engine in the 350 is probably one of the best engines ever produced by Deere. There should be no real gremlins as far as the engine. I would be inclined to pull the pan to diagnose the leakage instead of just gambling on the head. If it turns out it is a sleeve seal, all you head labor and gaskets will be wasted.
Lavoy

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:22 am

Thanks, Lavoy.
I have questions. I am familiar with sleeves. I have inserted them in a shop class at the local JC. I am not familiar with a "sleeve seal." Is the "sleeve seal" what I call the sleeve? What is it and what would show up in the pan that would indicate a problem with it?
The head gasket (if I don't have to disconnect the exhaust manifold and buy a bunch more gaskets) is only $56, and it looks like it might be relatively easy to lift the head and take a look at the old gasket and everything else in there, so I was planning on doing the gamble that it is the head gasket. Besides, being an old retired guy, I have the time.
Also, I would really like to look in the pan, but it would seem that I would have to drop the skid plate in order to drop the pan if I don't pull the engine. That looks tricky. What's the best way to do that?
Lots of questions that are probably pretty basic, but I appreciate the help, trying hard to learn, and promise not to ask the same questions twice.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:56 am

Belchos wrote: I am not familiar with a "sleeve seal." Is the "sleeve seal" what I call the sleeve? What is it and what would show up in the pan that would indicate a problem with it?

The sleeve seals are basically O-rings at the bottom of each sleeve. If they fail, then the result is coolant in the oil. That is why Lavoy mentioned that it may not be the head gasket causing your issue.

Usually (but not always) if a head gasket fails you will see other issues besides oil/coolant mixing such as reduction in power, etc. I would be more confident in the diagnosis of the head gasket if you saw those issues.

It doesn't hurt to have a new head gasket, so if you have the time and money to replace it first and you still have problems then you can always do the sleeve seals later. It's just more work, and you would have the extra costs for draining and refilling the fluids twice.

One thing you will want to do right away is drain out any coolant from the oil pan. You can ruin main and connecting rod bearings really quick if they sit in coolant.

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 6:04 am

Thanks
I have the head ready to come off. When Pape gets my new gasket I will get some help and lift it off. Couldn't do it myself
because I think I tore my rotator cuff, and I didn't help it any yesterday. Doctor at 9 AM.
I found Deerlely last night on Google and expedited a manual, and that will militate against some of the annoying newbie questions. The JD manual wasn't getting it so I hit Google. Also went through all the stickies. And one-hand typing sucks, so I won't bother you -- for a while at least.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:58 am

There are online parts diagrams on the Deere site- that may help yousome to understand the engine components until you get the printed manual.

CatD8RII · Post by **CatD8RII** » Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:46 pm

Not to change gears but Im pretty sure all the 350Cs have an engine oil cooler, right below the engine oil filter. Not sure if you checked that yet or not but it might not hurt. All you need to do is submerge it in a bucket of water and apply a small ammount of air to the one coolant line while blocking the other.

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Sat Sep 25, 2010 6:59 am

Some confusion now whether the "C" on the decal stands for "Crawler" rather than the sequence in the models.

Waiting for daylight out here to go down and try to figure it out once and for all. [See other thread.]

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Sep 25, 2010 10:21 am

C as far as a model number decal always refers to the series. On the 1010/2010 and older, C stands for crawler to distinguish the different tractor types available in each model. After there was no longer and ag crawler offered, the crawler got there own model number that was not shared with the wheel tractors, so the the tractor type suffix was no longer used.
Lavoy

Belchos · Post by **Belchos** » Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:17 pm

got it. turns out it is a 1967 350. either the parts guy is dyslexic or i am. i am sure he said a 1976 350.

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Coolant in oil on JD350C

Coolant in oil on JD350C

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