350B steering clutch R&R

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:27 am

I have decided to take the plunge and repair the steering clutch/brake on my crawler by myself. I'm not a stranger to overhauling tractors, but this will be the first time I've dug into one of these. I reckon I'll be having a lot of questions. I've got the operator's, parts and tech manual and am about to start.
My first question is about parts; what is the best source for clutch disks, brake band etc? Someone on eBay sells a kit for a little over $600. That's probably a third of what you'd pay Deere. Are these kits okay? Are there other sources? I don't notice our host advertising 350 parts, but I haven't called to ask.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:50 pm

I would talk to the administrator of the site (Lavoy) first. He is a parts supplier and even with shipping is very competitive with aftermarket sources.

One thing about EBay sources- some of the clutch discs being sold on there are not of high quality and are brittle. be careful if you go that route.

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 1:36 pm

I will try to get the thing torn apart this weekend and then give Lavoy a call. With all the labor and time involved I'd hate to use poor quality parts.

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:28 am

Give me your opinion on this sprocket.

I don't have anything around to compare it to. If it were yours would you replace it while you had it off?

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:33 am

Hi !

Check this link : http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... 1&start=15

it will help , if you need more pics and or info feel free to ask !
I've done both of mine .

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:42 am

To me it looks as if I have about half as much tooth as you do.

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:17 pm

Next question, does the seat assembly have to come off to replace the steering clutch? The book makes it look like it does but Andre's post doesn't.

440 iron popper · Post by **440 iron popper** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:06 pm

About the parts source question: Lavoy!

I'm in Quebec city, Canada and even with the shipping added he has better prices than anyone else on most of things. A lot of parts on these old machines come from aftermarket brand. Some are good some are cheap. Lavoy's stuff is very good quality. I'm pretty shure John Deere sells the same thing with a 200% profit... I need 3 springs worth 63$ each availaible at John Deere only, no aftermarket cross reference...

No They aren't gold plated!

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:00 am

nosoup4u wrote:Next question, does the seat assembly have to come off to replace the steering clutch? The book makes it look like it does but Andre's post doesn't.

can you elaborate about the seat I'm not sure I understand properly what as to come off !

if it is the bearing seat than no if it still good leave it there .

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:01 am

440 iron popper wrote:About the parts source question: Lavoy!

I'm in Quebec city, Canada and even with the shipping added he has better prices than anyone else on most of things. A lot of parts on these old machines come from aftermarket brand. Some are good some are cheap. Lavoy's stuff is very good quality. I'm pretty shure John Deere sells the same thing with a 200% profit... I need 3 springs worth 63$ each availaible at John Deere only, no aftermarket cross reference... No They aren't gold plated!

for spring let me know we have a spring manufacturer in Granby and some times they can help .

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:25 am

I meant the seat that you sit on and the whole assembly, fuel tank, battery box etc. I've talked to Lavoy and he said that it isn't necessary. That's good because I'd then have to also remove the ROPS.

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:05 am

We get springs made up locally that are about 1/3 heavier, still cheaper than deere and much more agressive clamping action.

You could remove the final drive and clutch with out removing the side boxes and fuel tank, but i would at a minimum recommending the offending sides battery box or oil tank box as it does speed up the process and gives you more room to work.

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:36 am

nosoup4u wrote:I meant the seat that you sit on and the whole assembly, fuel tank, battery box etc. I've talked to Lavoy and he said that it isn't necessary. That's good because I'd then have to also remove the ROPS.

seat need to be removed to get to the top cover of the clutch assembly ! ( sorry for the bad understanding) . I wonder why Lavoy said no , how can you get to those covers ??

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:54 pm

I said battery box, hyd tank, and fuel tank did not need to be removed, guess I never thought about the seat itself, but that is only 4 bolts.
Lavoy

nosoup4u · Post by **nosoup4u** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:45 am

What do you think of the sprocket? I would say there is maybe 1/16th inch play in each link. The rollers measure worn about .070 inch from the round side to flat side.

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