350c injector pump question

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 9:22 am

i had to replace the two umbrella seals on the injector pump shaft on my 350c... my injector pump is the one that the shaft stays with the gear.. i never took any of the gears apart or any of that , i just slid my pump back and replaced the seals...but my question is... that shaft that goes in the pump has like a flat end on it that i gess drives the pump, how do i time the shaft to the pump.. or is there such thing..im gessing it would be a deal were its eather 180 out or its right...being i never took any of the timeing gears or any of that out...am i correct,, any help...

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 12:05 pm

anyone have a answear... iv been trying to work on this lil by lil every day after work.. id like to get her to run and put some track chains on..lol

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 12:24 pm

On the end of your shaft, where the flat end is, you will find a "Dot". Then look inside your pump and you should see a mating slot that this flat end goes into. There should be another "Dot" down at the bottom of this slot. You want to line the two dots together on installation. You line the pump to the shaft. do not turn your engine! You can turn the pump if need be by inserting a wide blade screw driver into the slot.
Did you install the timing pin in the flywheel before you pulled your pump? If not then we need to instruct you further. But for now get the pump back on with the two corresponding dots.

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:13 pm

no i never took any of the gears or what not out.. ill i did was un bolt pump and slid it off the shaft replaced two seals and sliped it back on carfully so the seals did not flip over... and i never see any dots and the pump slid right on by hand with lil movement each way... so if its wrong then its 180 degree out and dozer wont run... right

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:16 pm

also.. this is off subject but is that dozer just a 12v system.. i see were it takes two batterys .. are those linked together to become 24v or is it just positive to positive and negative to negative to give more cca

vestor_guy · Post by **vestor_guy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:56 pm

The batteries are in parallel and it is a 12v system.

If you follow the cables on any system with two batteries, a parallel system will have the two negatives connected and the two positives connected. It just increases the CCA. I always just use one battery with the most CCA. If it is cold enough that one battery wont start the crawler, a block heater should be used. Also, if you use a block heater and one battery wont start the tractor, it is cold enough to spend most of the time in the house.

A series 24v system will have one of the negative posts connected to a positive post which makes the cells all in one line and produces 24 volts.

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:20 pm

thanks i knew what the 12 and 24v were but dident know if this unit was 12v or 24v.. being iv been piceing it together from boxes for the last 2 years i dont have all the cables and what not.. so thats why i asked..... now if i can get it to start and run id have her wooped..... this stupid pump has me confused..

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:54 pm

if you did NOT turn any thing just bolt the pump back up and it will be fine try to match where the bolts were at and if you want then you can check and see if the timing is dead on with the window in the pump

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:00 pm

how do i check and what window

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:10 pm

If you didn't turn anything then you will most likely be okay. Like the other post said, as long as you try and get it back where it was originally.
Your electrical system is 12 volts. Some machines came with dual batteries mainly for cold weather starting. If you are in a cold climate that is up to you if you want to keep it. Warmer climates can use a single 12 volt battery as long as you get one with several cranking amps. I don't recall the exact sizes but I always try to use a common heavy truck battery. Here in MO we have always got along fine with the single battery set up. North MO being the exception where they are in a colder zone.
The window being referred to on your injector pump is the timing window on the side of the pump. Held on by two small counter sunk screws in most cases but yours may have a couple of very small cap screws.
Your static timing is set through this window by aligning a timing mark on the governor housing and the block portion of the pump.
If you do not have a Tech Manual, I highly recommend you purchase one. It will have all of this information in it and will save you a ton of heart ache. You can also search the archives on this site and get most of this information as it has been covered several times.

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:45 am

ok so i understand the timeing window on the pump.. but my books dont show how i make sure my engine is in time... i see the lil plate with window on clutch housing... and i see the pin goes in the threaded hole when u have it in time.. but question is.. i see 2 holes in the flywheel that the pin can go in... so can someone step me threw the wole timeing proess please

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350c injector pump question

350c injector pump question

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