mid 50s to late 60s jd350 crawler
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am
- Location: northeast
i have a technical manual for a 350b. that calls for a 12 volt coil. Now weve been running this thing for 2 yrs with a 6 volt resisted coil. how can that be. Would that be the reason why there was a resistor in the harness and one in the coil. very confusing. I have ser #s for the tractor and for the motor. could you tell anything from those numbers.
tractor. sn14fc012196
engine snm41tf0115697
our mechanic has manuals, i would think that a 6 volt coil would raise a flag for him..
tractor. sn14fc012196
engine snm41tf0115697
our mechanic has manuals, i would think that a 6 volt coil would raise a flag for him..
If the book says it is a 12 volt coil, it is a 12 volt coil, no idea why someone would put a 6 volt on there.
From a 350 service manual:
The ignition resistor is connected between the coil and the ignition switch and has a resistance of 2.2 Ohm.
The resistor is connected in series with the coil, and when the engine is running, reduces voltage at the coil.
To provide a better spark when starting, the resistor is bypassed and battery voltage or approximately 10 volts is applied to the coil. This is accomplished when the starter is operating by current flowing from the "R" solenoid terminal of the starter through the resistor bypass wire to the coil.
Make sure that yours is wired this way, put in the correct coil, and make sure it is connected correctly and I think you will have solved the problem.
Lavoy
From a 350 service manual:
The ignition resistor is connected between the coil and the ignition switch and has a resistance of 2.2 Ohm.
The resistor is connected in series with the coil, and when the engine is running, reduces voltage at the coil.
To provide a better spark when starting, the resistor is bypassed and battery voltage or approximately 10 volts is applied to the coil. This is accomplished when the starter is operating by current flowing from the "R" solenoid terminal of the starter through the resistor bypass wire to the coil.
Make sure that yours is wired this way, put in the correct coil, and make sure it is connected correctly and I think you will have solved the problem.
Lavoy
Keith-
A little off your direct topic, but I thought I would share since it may help answer your question about the 6-volt coil.
I have a 1952 8N tractor that was originally 6-volt but was converted to 12-volt. The conversion mainly involved the altenator (including bracket and pulley), battery, and lights. You were also supposed to change the from a 6-volt to 12-volt coil; however you could also just stick an inline igntiion resistor to drop the voltage to 6-volt at the coil. I ran my 12-volt 8N with a 6-volt coil for quite a while this way, then switched to a 12-volt coil recently. The main disadvantage for the 6-volt coil (as I understood it) was harder starting during cold weather.
I mention this because maybe someone did a similar swap to you. It doesn't explain why it happened, as I thought the 2010s and 350s were 12-volt, but maybe someone just had a 6-volt coil handy and swapped it in to avoid buying a 12-volt coil.
A little off your direct topic, but I thought I would share since it may help answer your question about the 6-volt coil.
I have a 1952 8N tractor that was originally 6-volt but was converted to 12-volt. The conversion mainly involved the altenator (including bracket and pulley), battery, and lights. You were also supposed to change the from a 6-volt to 12-volt coil; however you could also just stick an inline igntiion resistor to drop the voltage to 6-volt at the coil. I ran my 12-volt 8N with a 6-volt coil for quite a while this way, then switched to a 12-volt coil recently. The main disadvantage for the 6-volt coil (as I understood it) was harder starting during cold weather.
I mention this because maybe someone did a similar swap to you. It doesn't explain why it happened, as I thought the 2010s and 350s were 12-volt, but maybe someone just had a 6-volt coil handy and swapped it in to avoid buying a 12-volt coil.
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am
- Location: northeast
-
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am
- Location: northeast
Well, we are up and running. Put in the new 6 volt coil that the dealer claims is the correct stock part for that machine. Started the crawler, started right up. checked the voltage at both ends of the coil. Mehanic did this, whatever that means. He found that he was getting way to much voltage gong in ant out. Remember this is a resisted coil. We then replace the once bypassed resistor that was in the new wiring harness. All measurements fell into place. Apparently they are running a 6 volt coil with 2 resistors. Why not just run a 12 volt, i dont know. Anyway, it runs perfect. with all the new parts we have install and the valve job it did not need, its like a new machine. We ran it last night pulling stumps for 2 hours without a problem. After 3 pages and months of posting, i want to say thankyou to everyone who took time to reply. Have a great day.
That machine is a 1971 build so if deere had a 6 volt coil instaled in those days I didnt know about it. And why 12 volt for the rest of the system? check the coil when running to see if it gets hot as you have it running That is a good indicator of an over capacitated coil if it gets hot.I realise that this system was like this when you got it So as it is runing now watch the coil temp .A lot of 6 volt systems that have been changed too 12 volt and the old 6 volt coil left in place .It just frys the life out of that coil even with a rectifier or two in place. Good luck.Digitup.
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- 40C crawler
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:22 am
- Location: northeast
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