engine rebuild/bigger engine?

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rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:25 pm

i went out and got the serial number but part of it is kinda hard to read, its either 228418T or 228478T and the T may be a J.

i have the john deere 350 crawler tractor and crawler loader service manual, inside the latest date on it is 74 but when i ordered it online it was supposed to be for a 75. it all looks to match up so far when comparing it to my 350.

i dont have a precise measuring device but using my measuring tape on the pistons i get a diameter of 3-13/16", and on top of the pistons is stamped L2330.


my crank showed up today and its coated with that black paint/oil stuff should i/do i need to take it in and have it cleaned and does it need to be balanced by a machine shop? or can i clean it up in the shop with my parts cleaner tub?

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:36 pm

looks like my engine is the smaller 152
The 3152 engine is part of the 300 Series John Deere Engines manufactured in Saran, France and in Dubuque in Iowa, USA. For serial numbers more that 154766, the liner o rings are fixed in the engine block. This is a 3 cylinder engine, with a bore of 3.86 inches (98mm), and a piston pin diameter of 1.185 inches (30mm).
The engine block will have casting numbers of R53240, R55100, R72967, and T32339, and the connecting rods will have casting numbers of T20007 or R81410.
The 3164 engine is part of the 300 Series John Deere Engines manufactured in Saran, France and in Dubuque in Iowa, USA. For serial numbers less that 179601, the liner o rings are fixed on the liner. This is a 3 cylinder engine, with a bore of 4.02 inches (102 mm), and a piston pin diameter of 1.185 inches (30mm).

i have the r55100 number cast into the block


does this look correct to you guys?

its great being able to get some real world feed back from you guys that know about these crawlers, thanks again :D


edit; now im kinda curious if it would be possible to buy a cylinder liner/sleeve kit for a 164 and install it into my 152 converting it into a 164, hmmmm :lol: or even a 179 and put a turbo on it :lol:

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:14 pm

anyone got any comments on getting my new crank shaft balanced or is it good to go?

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jtrichard
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:25 pm

it should be good to go ....where did you get it? never heard of having to get one balanced its not a dragster turning 12000 RPM
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:41 pm

the reason i ask is my old crank has some holes drilled into part of it that looks like it was done for balancing, my new one does not have any sign of anything done to it machining wise for balancing.


i ordered it from griggs lawn and tractor, showed up a couple days after i ordered which was pretty cool. i sent an email to them about balancing it, waiting for their reply.

http://www.griggslawnandtractor.com/ser ... bly/Detail

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LeonardL
350 crawler
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:11 pm
Location: Missouri

Post by LeonardL » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:51 pm

If your crank came from Deere then it should not need balancing.
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:17 pm

Ed from griggs lawn and tractor said the same as you both, its good to go in no machine shop needed.

he also said this on cleaning the gunk off the crank
you can use brake cleaner or some have used wd40 to remove the rust preventative, it will take some elbow grease also, if you use brake cleaner please coat after cleaning with some oil and wipe off excess to keep from rusting before install, this is critical in my neck of the woods because of humidity
thank you again for your input

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jtrichard
350 crawler
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Location: Joshua Tree CA

Post by jtrichard » Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:27 pm

the crank is coated with cosmoline.... lacquer thinner would work very good to clean it with or mineral spirits or kerosene and yes smear some oil on it afterwards
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:16 pm

got the engine put back in yesterday and she fired up good, put a couple hrs on it today and all seems good, i checked the oil about 4 times :lol:

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scampr
440 crawler
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Location: south/central NH

Post by scampr » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:42 pm

Is the power more like you expected or not? just curious??
scampr 440icd, 350B, 47 Farmall H, 55 Farmall cub and ashamed to have a Kabota too

rockslayer16
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Post by rockslayer16 » Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:10 pm

no unfortunately it did not gain any power, i am most likely going to throw a t3 turbo on it with an external electric oil pump and reservoir. it can be done for about 350$ including a new turbo, that is doing the work myself of course which would include fabricating the exhaust to accept the turbo.

im not looking to sled pull with it, just need a tiny bit more power mostly for going up the steep grades, she pushes great going down them :lol:

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