hot brakes??

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MattE
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hot brakes??

Post by MattE » Wed Jul 17, 2013 9:51 am

I've been having steering issues lately. I'll adjust the clutches and brake bands on a 350 b and after about an hour or two of running you have to really reef on the levers to stop the track to steer and eventually it doesn't matter what you do you cant steer. The clutches are releasing fine, just the brake bands are not grabbing. Let it cool off and it will steer just fine again.

The brake bands only have about 75 hours on them, and it did not do this last year.

Any ideas?

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:50 am

sounds like you may have a oil seal leaking
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:59 am

Is the engine pulling down while you are doing this? If so, remove some freeplay, that will probably help.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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MattE
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Post by MattE » Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:03 pm

nope,

It does not lug the engine at all. Just acts like the brake bands aren't engaging

If it had oil on it why would it only act up when it was hot?

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Jul 17, 2013 3:28 pm

Odd, not sure what that would be.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:30 am

I sort of wonder if you are observing brake band glazing, especially since it is occuring when hot? This could be a cause depending on the source of the brake material- not all brake material is created equally. If you don't know what glazing is, here is a simple definition from an automotive website I grabbed:

Brake pads contain various metals and minerals that are bound together using a resin. At high temperature, this resin turns to liquid and can bleed out onto the rotor. Glazing is dangerous because it prevents normal contact between the pad and the rotor so you lose pad bite.

Unfortunatley, to know if you have glazing you would need to be able to visually inspect the brake band.
Last edited by Tigerhaze on Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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MattE
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Post by MattE » Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:35 am

That's what I was thinking. The gentleman that relined them when I had the finals apart is very good and did all of the clutches and brakes for my company. Sadly he's no longer with us or I'd ask what he used or if that is a possibility. Damn shame too, besides being a stand up guy he only charged ten bucks for a reline.

I do know that they were riveted to the bands not bonded.

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Thu Jul 18, 2013 3:15 pm

$10???? just to rivet or lining to?reline a 2010 is about $100 per side
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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MattE
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Post by MattE » Fri Jul 19, 2013 6:04 am

yep, old retired guy. He had material stockpiled from his working days. Would usually do it for free if you brought beer and hung around and BS'd.


Hell of a good deal while it lasted.

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