JD350B General Questions

[jthornton]

I did the steering adjustment yesterday but the guy that replaced the clutches and brake bands replaced the brake adjustment bolt with a regular bolt with two lock washers under the head. If I can get a new adjustment bolt can I change it from the top if I'm careful?

Thanks
JT

[Lavoy]

Only thing I can think of is there might be a spring in there around the bolt. It might be under enough tension that it won't fall out.
Lavoy

[jthornton]

Thanks for the heads up Lavoy, I see on the parts breakout of the brake linkage assembly a spring and a spacer. Time to get an endoscope I think.

I can also see that the lever the brake actuator bolt presses on is badly worn out. I wonder if I can get that shaft out and rebuild the lever?

Thanks
JT

[Lavoy]

Might be tough from the top.
Lavoy

[jthornton]

I got some corn head grease and a pistol type grease gun. All of the zerk fittings took grease except the right front track idler. I removed the zerk fitting and it passes grease fine. Any suggestions how to proceed?

Thanks
JT

[Lavoy]

That's odd, I have never had a roller or idler not take grease. Dig in a little ways with a piece of wire and make sure there is no obstruction.
Lavoy

[jthornton]

I put an object in and it goes about 4" then hits the bottom of the hole. When I tried to grease it again it took one stroke then stopped. So I assume I just replaced the grease I took out with my wire. I assume the shaft is cross drilled... any more ideas?

JT

[Lavoy]

You will feel resistance when full, make sure to stop there, or you will blow out the seal.
Lavoy

[jthornton]

I guess the likelihood of 1 of 14 being full after the 350 has sit around for a few years is remote but possible. Kinda hard for me to take the chance... how hard is it to remove the pin?

JT

[jthornton]

So I figured I'd take the bolt out to see if it is clogged and I put an 18" breaker bar on a socket and she didn't budge. How much force can I expect to put on the bolt? Do I need to take the weight off the front roller before trying to remove the bolt? Or do I need to drag out the impact wrench?



Thanks
JT

[north country dozer]

Not a dozer mechanic by any means, but my trick for pipe threads and flange bolts is always trying to brake it in the tightening position first rather than loosening... sounds odd but its a good old mechanics trick. Once it budges a hair towards tighten position, it should loosen easier... again though, maybe not the case with a grease fitting... I am just a dumb plumber anyways

[jtrichard]

JT pulling that bolt out wont get you any farther that you have been by pulling the Zerk it will take at least a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a cheater to break that bolt lose ....you would have to pull the bolts out of each end of the axle/pin and then back the adjuster off and push the wheel forward just a smidge then pull the outer arm and the pull the axle out and see whats going on

[jthornton]

Thanks jtrichard,

That's the info I need.

JT

[jsal]

Had the same problem on my 350 bought a hammer type grease joint rejuvenator from TSC you put oil in it and strike with a hammer did not work immediately but after using machine a few hours I was able to push grease into the shaft .

JIM

[jthornton]

Is the bolt just drilled through or is it cross drilled?

At the risk of damaging the seal I might try the hammer tool if it proves too difficult to remove the shaft. But being the way I am I got to try and fix it right the first time.

JT