JD350B General Questions

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:35 pm

the bolt is drilled straight thru yes and JD is VERY proud of those bolts just price one..... just my sure you have your nitro pills close when you do

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:06 am

Got the outside bolt off yesterday, weather permitting I'll block up the blade and remove the inside bolt. Then get the pin out... and yes the bolt is not the problem.

JT

jsal · Post by **jsal** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 7:21 am

to remove the shaft it will be necessary to have the idler supports off I am thinking

JIM

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:10 am

Yes, should be thrust plates that hold the axle in place.
Lavoy

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:26 am

I don't think it is possible to get the front idler shaft out without breaking the track. There is a lip that captures the bracket to the frame. So it seems to me that the idler and brackets need to slide out the front after you split the track. Is this how you see it?

JT

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:02 pm

I found the master pin for the right track and it has been welded in so I assume once I grind the weld off the pin should be easy to remove?

JT

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:21 pm

jthornton wrote:I found the master pin for the right track and it has been welded in so I assume once I grind the weld off the pin should be easy to remove?

JT

Usually the reason that master pins are tack welded is because they are loose in the bushing and thus move easily. Thus I would guess they will come out easy after removing the weld but you never now if there is rust and so forth. You will still probably need a small sledge and punch to tap it out.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:21 pm

Double post

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:26 pm

jthornton wrote:I don't think it is possible to get the front idler shaft out without breaking the track. There is a lip that captures the bracket to the frame. So it seems to me that the idler and brackets need to slide out the front after you split the track. Is this how you see it?

JT

I have taken off the front idler brackets from the front idler on my 2010 when I stripped one of the bolt holes. The standard procedure would be to split the track and slide the idler brackets off of the trackframe, and that is how I did it. You MIGHT be able to unbolt the idler from the brackets while still on the trackframe, but you would probably need to support the weight of the front idler to do so. It seems to me that is more trouble than it is worth to just split the track.

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:28 pm

I got the track split and out of the way and here is what I found, no bushings at all in the roller and the inside cover bolts sheared off. Everything seems to be ok other than that.

What are the bushings made of?

JT

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:56 pm

Mystery Solved! The pin was in backwards... there is a huge grease hole on the correct side. New bushings will be in Monday.

WOW! the seals are $238 EACH.

JT

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:29 pm

lavoy has the seals ..... is the bore in the idler still good? if the pin has rode on the wheel the new bushings are not going to be tight enough to stay in... on one of my 2010s (same pin and bushing) i had the idler bored out bigger and the pin turned down and had new bushings made to fit....

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:33 pm

The bore and the pin look pretty good, I'll find out Monday when the bushings come in how tight they fit. What kind of material did you get your bushings made from? If I know the material I can make them in my machine shop.

On another note, I've not been able to find what model the 6 way blade is? The bushings for the blade pivot need to be changed.

JT

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:36 pm

bronze..... took a little time but i found it 6305 on the blade model# http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt are you sure you need seals? from pics they dont look that bad ..the bellows are what usually go bad

jthornton · Post by **jthornton** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:40 am

jtrichard,

Thanks so much for finding the 6 way part number.

My seals look ok to me, I just priced them for fun while I had jdpc.deere.com open. There is a flat ring made of some fiber like material that is worn on one of them. I'm not sure what the material is or I'd replace the ring.

JT

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