I really need help getting my starter to work!

[jtrichard]

If you put power to the "s" ter. with the solenoid on the bench with no "slug" in the center you will get a spark and nothing more no click no sound ....its a electro magnet it has to have the slug to push the switch in the cap end

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Sparks indicate current. So, the coil works from the sound of it. That won't do a lot of good if it can't move the shaft, though.

Stan

[jtrichard]

Thanks Stan. Just for clarification, my 350B is a diesel. I checked a solenoid on Thursday (not the one in the tractor) by using jumper cables and the tractor battery. Negative was connected to the solenoid case and I applied the positive to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Got a small spark at the "S" terminal but no solenoid action. Same with the big lug at the bottom. Same when positive was applied at the same time to both the big lug at the bottom and the "S" terminal. I assume the solenoid is bad.
.

Hi Stan i agree 100% i was just trying to point out that he is thinking the one on the bench is bad as there was no "action" for lack of a better word

[GRWeldon]

Stan and JT,

Thank you so much for your help. I have the solenoid that came off the old (bad) starter. When testing on the bench as Stan pointed out, I did just get a little spark. When I check the resistance as instructed, the measurement was between .6 ohms and 7 ohms... very low.

When I removed and checked the solenoid that came on the new starter, the ohms reading fluctuated wildly (digital meter) in the mega-ohm range indicating an open coil as y'all have instructed.

I called Filterpro (where I got the starter) and told them that the starter came with a DOA solenoid. They weren't willing to replace it for free since I received the starter back in January, but the replacement was only $21 and they agreed not to charge shipping. Should be here any day.

I'm hoping that when I install it, the ole' girl will crank. If not, back to troubleshooting the wiring.

BTW, is there anything that I could have done to kill the coil? I did accidentally ground some terminals with a wrench once when I thought the battery was disconnected and it was not (scary with a high-amp system)...

[jtrichard]

I doubt you did anything that could fry the solenoid

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

No, that would not have hurt the coil. In use, you put 12v on it. Probably a cracked solder connection internally.

Stan

[GRWeldon]

I am so discouraged. I put the new solenoid on last night (after checking the resistance of the coil) and when I hit the start button.... nothing.

I'm really at a loss. I don't know where to go from here. This is why I stay away from things of an electrical nature.

Please let me take the time to explain where things are now...
-----

No gauges are installed at all except for the ammeter.

The neutral safety switch is bypassed.

The circuit breaker is bad so it has been bypassed. I think it was for the benefit of the cigar lighter which isn't connected.

The push button switch works (continuity between the terminals when pressed)

The ignition switch works (continuity between Battery and Start terminals when key is turned to the right).

The white wire goes from the ignition switch Start terminal to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (Positive for continuity between ignition switch and solenoid). There is also the wire that goes to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump that is attached to the white wire at the switch.

The battery terminal of the ignition switch has battery voltage coming from the ammeter. The terminal of the ammeter that goes to the ignition switch is red. The other terminal of the ammeter has a black wire. I can't remember where exactly it goes at the moment, but according to the wiring diagram it is the correct color and is hooked up correctly. It obviously carries battery voltage.

The starter solenoid has battery voltage coming from the battery via the large red cable and is hooked to the large terminal at the 12 o'clock position on the solenoid. There is another smaller wire attached to this large terminal and I can't remember where it goes at the moment, but according to the wiring diagram it is correct. The lower larger lug goes to the starter motor itself.

Would somebody be so kind as to fill in the blanks for me and possibly tell me why the starter won't turn over unless jumped? If you have any idea where I might get some professional help (not for me... for the tractor!) in the central Alabama area I'll probably have to go that route...

Thanks y'all.

[jthornton]

If the starter cranks when you jump it out but not with the key, start at the key switch with your multi-meter and find the break in the circuit. It's all about divide and conquer, find the point that 12v + is and keep looking for the place it stops.

12v + -------| |-------- Coil Start terminal---- coil windings---- ground

The | | is for the key switch.

JT

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I wish we were closer. I would come help. It has to be a case of a break in the circuit somewhere.

There are only two circuits. One from batt to key switch to safety switch to solenoid coil to ground (skinny wires) The other from batt to solenoid switching contacts to starter windings to ground (fat wires).

Stan

[johnwesley]

Don't know if this is your problem, but I have a tractor that would not start without jumping the terminals. Always showed 12v to the start term.Finally replaced the wire between the ignition and start term,no more problems.

[jthornton]

Yes, a meter can show voltage even on a wire that can not pass any amperage. In plain English there can be a bad spot that limits current to the point that there is not enough to pull in the solenoid even if you can read 12v with a meter.

JT

[GRWeldon]

I'm not even getting any "clicks", but I will certainly keep this in mind. I'm sure it is something relatively simple but I can't grasp it.

[jthornton]

If you can jump from the battery cable to the start terminal on the solenoid and she cranks then the problem lies in the wires from the battery through the start switch to the start terminal. I've see wires that are broken in two but the insulation still holds them together and they metered out fine but would not carry any current because of the break. It's simple enough to change the wire from the key switch or starter button to the starter solenoid. Try jumping around each wire to see if it works.

JT

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

One thing about reading voltage on a wire which cannot pass current. As soon as you put a load onto it, the fault will cause the voltage to drop to near zero.

This is a great troubleshooting tool.

I just had that happen with a bad switch for outdoor floodlights. They would not come on, yet there was 119 volts present to the fixture. Of course, this fool figured the sockets themselves had gone Hi Resistance internally and replaced the unit. Still no light, though, and the bulbs read OK on the ohmmeter. So, back to the meter and, gee, voltage dropped to 18v at the wire nut connection with the bulbs (the load in this case) in place. Fault was in the switch.

Stan

[GRWeldon]

Well, after speaking on the phone with jtrichard and jumping out what I thought was the "S" terminal with the main battery cable, nothing happens. Richard tells me that my solenoid is bad and explains why. After hearing the explanation, I mention that neither terminal on the solenoid was labeled. I asked if it would damage anything if I jump out the other terminal to the battery cable and he told me to try it.

She cranked over! I then proceeded to change the white wire from the terminal closest to the engine, where all other solenoids I've seen have the "S" terminal to the other terminal. Then I turned on the key, pressed the button and she started up immediately!

Such a simple problem has kept me from running for months. Who would have thought? Anyway, if any of you end up with a geared starter made by Wilson, the "S" terminal is on the outside, not the inside!

I'm just really pleased to have the old girl back!