450 Loader track adjustment

[JD450tl]

I don't know a lot on out these machines, but I have a 450 track loader that the tracks are loose on, probably around 2 to 2.5" of droop on top. The adjusters are all of the way out. Is it possible to take a link/pad out and make up for the slack? I'm not sure where it would be worn elsewhere. The sprockets are in good shape, so I'm in need of guidance. Thanks in advance

[77 Ford]

Yes people have "short tracked" them before by taking out a link. It is a fairly short solution to a much bigger problem.

Remember the sprocket is only 1 piece, the wear is probably everywhere else. Link pins/bushing, front idler, rollers, it all adds up.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Essentially, you are deciding to run what you have until destruction, then replacing the chains, sprockets and rollers when the adjusters hit the end next time.

Stan

[mini kahuna]

when the pins and bushings wear to the point of no more adjustment, the chain also doesn't match the pitch of the sproket anymore, this in turn causes rapid wear and you will feel the chain crunching up onto the sprocket because the two parts don't match up anymore as they revolve around.
how much do you depend on and use the machine, if you use it and plan on keeping it, plan on buying chains and rollers etc for it.

[JD450tl]

The machine probably doesn't see 100hrs a year. I'll probably take a link out and roll with it til something gives

[jtrichard]

run the tracks as lose as possible so you minimize the sprocket wear

[Lavoy]

First think to be ruined will be sprocket, the out of pitch rails will eat it fairly quickly.
Lavoy

[JD450tl]

What would be considered the correct way of fixing the issue?

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

It depends on how much wear the rail links have. They rub on the roller faces and flanges.

The bushings wear on the sprocket on the outside and the pins on the inside. And, of course, the pins wear too. So, the pin and bushing wear causes the chain to lengthen. That, in turn, changes the pitch.

If the faces of the links aren't too worn where they ride on the roller faces, and the sides of the links aren't too worn where they ride on the roller flanges....then the pins and bushings can be removed and replaced with new ones.

This is done at a track shop which has the big presses necessary to do the work.

If you catch the wear in the pins and bushings before they become too worn, you often times can use the sprockets. If not, or if the pins and bushings were already changed and so the sprocket has a lot of wear on them, then you also need new sprockets.

When the rails are worn out where they ride on the rollers, then the fix is to buy brand-new chains and either move your pads over or just buy new pads as well. Then, you also really need new sprockets. Worn sprockets on new chains will increase the wear rate on the new chains.

Often times, all the parts of the u/c are so worn, that the only good fix is to replace everything. Chains, sprockets, rollers and idlers. If you opt to yank out a link and run it, this is where you will be at when you can no longer keep the tracks on. Buying everything or turning the machine into Yard Art.

Of course, the condition of the rest of the machine coupled with the urgency of what work you need to do with it has to considered. The only option which is cheap is the one which leads to the earliest demise of the machine as far as being able to do work goes.

Stan

[Lavoy]

New pins and bushings is probably too close to the cost of new rails to bother with. Not to mention finding someone that can do it. You need to check your bottom rollers to see what shape they are in. If they are good, put new rails on it, and you are good for a long, long time at your usage.
Lavoy

[mini kahuna]

I priced out pins and bushings, using old rails vs complete new chain on 350.
by the time I found a track shop that had the tooling, paid for the pressing of new pins and bushings, it only cost another 400. for brand new berco chains.
this was about 12 years ago.
price it out both ways and see what you come up with.
trust me I know replacing undercarriage is very painful on the wallet.
do you have track problems now, when you get to the worn out point you start having fun with tracks jumping off the bottom rollers etc.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Oh, yeah. Go to turn and the chain slides off the rollers while the sprocket yanks the sides of the chains right off at the same time. Next thing you know you are driving away from your track in a slow turn as the other side still propels you.

Now, just *try* to get them to back on as easily as they popped off.....

You may need to consult the internet for extra curse words, because you will not posses nearly enough of them....

And *then* it will do it *again* in short order!

Also, I readily believe the cost of all-new rails is almost the same cost as a P&B (not to be confused with PB&J!) job.

Stan

[mini kahuna]

this is why there are not many track presses around.....
cheaper for new chains...lot less hassle.
Lavoy's in the process of helping me do my 1010 undercarriage....I can tell you from experience if you think your undercarriage is worn......it is really worn.
I have also found a ton of things wrong that you can't see until you get into it.
at least when you rebuild them you know what you have when you are done.

[Paul Buhler]

What would be considered the correct way of fixing the issue?

Depends on your cash flow. The quick fix (take out a link) will help keeping the tracks on and the machine working, but at the expense of your pins and bushings and sprockets - don't forget to factor in your anxiety level. The other solution, newer rails and sprockets, and possibly rolls and /or pads, gets costly, but means more reliability (less thrown tracks) and productivity, and more piece of mind. Top shelf is an all new undercarriage. I've taken the middle route on my 420, and feel good about the outcome. Good luck with your decision.

[77 Ford]

Stan just had to bring up PB&J....now I'm hungry thanks......