450B problem

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LeonardL
2010 crawler
2010 crawler
Posts: 560
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:11 pm
Location: Missouri

Re: 450B problem

Post by LeonardL » Fri Jul 31, 2020 8:05 am

If you have sent your pump out to be rebuilt, then the rebuilder should send you the seals when they return your pump. Most rebuilders will install the pump flange o-ring before they send it back to you. I have had a couple of places that just sent the o-ring and I had to put it on. Make sure it is on the pump because if you don't then you get an oil leak around the flange. I learned that the hard way as a young and very green mechanic. So I got the added experience of pulling a pump all over again.
It is a good idea to have a couple of extra cup seals just in case you do tear one. I usually get mine from Deere but only because they happen to be handy and my son is a mechanic with them. I have also bought them through our local NAPA store from Stanadyne. E-bay and Amazon also have them but be careful of getting the Chinese seals. Remember you get what you pay for. Make sure you are getting true Stanadyne seals. You might even ask Lavoy here on the site first as he sells parts and may have the seals in stock.
40 years working on JD 350s and other equipment.

timmtnman
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun May 15, 2016 3:44 pm
Location: Sylva NC

Re: 450B problem

Post by timmtnman » Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:36 pm

Thanks guys, I got the pump pulled off today and getting it ready to send off. Looking inside half way down looks like the seal is half way missing. Guess that is what's broke down. So when I reinstall the pump and the timing Mark's are lined up, it should be in time correct. Or is there more to it than that.

User avatar
LeonardL
2010 crawler
2010 crawler
Posts: 560
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:11 pm
Location: Missouri

Re: 450B problem

Post by LeonardL » Sun Aug 02, 2020 9:44 am

Yes, as long as you line everything back up you should be good to go. There will be a "Dot" on the end of the shaft that correlates with a "Dot" on the inside of the pump. The pump shaft has a flat or rectangle shaped tang (male) that fits into a slot (female) inside the pump. The two dots should be pretty obvious when you look at them. When you line your two marks at the timing window on the pump your two dots should also line up.
With the timing pin in the flywheel, you want to make sure your two lines are still in line across with each other before you tighten it down. I think this has been mentioned but this is why the bolt holes on the pump flange are slotted so you can turn it a bit to make those two lines line up. Do this before you hook your injector lines back or it can make it hard to turn the pump. ( Personal preference ) Once you've done that and have your flange bolts or nuts tightened down you can pull your pin and proceed from there.
Some mechanics I've worked with like to install the pump but leave it slightly loose and fit all of the lines to it but also leave them loose. Then tweak your pump to get the timing lines to line up and tighten it down. Then tighten all the lines up as you bleed them. Either way is okay and I have also done them this way. As I said before I prefer to have all of the lines out of my way and then fit them back to the pump.
And... Just an FYI... You can turn your pump by inserting a large flat blade screw driver or some tool that will fit inside the slot on the inside of your pump. Just make sure what ever tool you use is clean before you put it inside the pump and be careful not to scratch the brass bushing. Most rebuilders will have the two lines pretty close and all you have to do is install the pump and then turn it a bit to line the lines.
40 years working on JD 350s and other equipment.

timmtnman
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun May 15, 2016 3:44 pm
Location: Sylva NC

Re: 450B problem

Post by timmtnman » Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:50 pm

Thanks LeonardL, going to send the pump off tomorrow and they said they are 2 to 3 weeks out.

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