Trans cooler.

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Bobby H.
420 crawler
420 crawler
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:53 am
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS

Trans cooler.

Post by Bobby H. » Sat Feb 14, 2026 7:51 pm

I changed out the trans filter in front of the radiator and the oil is very milky. Will be checking the cooler for a leak. if the cooler is bad can a simple after market trans cooler work (air cooled) or is it recommended to go back with the water cooled one. In the automotive world there are two trains of thought. the water cooler helps get it warmed up faster but keeps it cooler when working and if you bypass the cooler in the radiator it may make it run too cold. I don't even know if I have an issue or not but trying to put info together before I step on it. Sorry I have a 1975 450c a . 450c track loader. I'm not trying to cheap out but don't know the availability of parts yet. Just rebuilt two buckt cylinders, one boom cylinder, new hoses one the frt, lower bushings on the boom, oil and filter and changed the trans filter in the nose and found Very milky oil. just trying to get ready for the next round.

Jim B
350 crawler
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Location: western Maine

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by Jim B » Sun Feb 15, 2026 6:44 am

Check out your manuals, but I believe the transmission oil cooler is mounted on the right side of the radiator and is air cooled, not coolant cooled, the same as my 450E and wheel tractors. If you have water in the transmission fluid, it is getting there a different way.

Bobby H.
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:53 am
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by Bobby H. » Mon Feb 16, 2026 9:13 am

You are absolutely correct. This is what happens to me when I don't look before opening my mouth. :( I know I had the same issue a year or two ago. flushed it out and refilled. I have not been running in water and I'm in central Texas. We have not had a lot of rain. It seems to be way to much for condensation. Anyone have any recommendations what to do after i drain, clean filters and or replace to keep this from happening again. I know I've done this several times in years that I have had this machine. Are there any recommendations as what to use to flush the system that wont hurt the clutches and or the pocket book . do I fill with fresh oil run and drain again??$$

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LeonardL
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Location: Missouri

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by LeonardL » Mon Feb 16, 2026 10:24 am

Machinery can be the absolute best water condensers. I have seen machines collect gallons of water and them not be setting for very long in the process. You being in central Texas where the humidity is nearly always high doesn't help in that respect. We have the same issue here in Missouri as we draw almost as much humidity as you do in Texas.

Storing your machine in doors and protected from the outside is always a good way to prevent this from happening. It seems that machines will be less likely to condense moisture if they are protected in a machine shed or shop. I've seen tarps used and they work but then you stand a big chance of getting rodents in your machine. They're bad enough in a machine shed but a tarp in the outdoors is just too irresistible for mice, chipmunks and rats.

The best way for you to take care of the water is to pull your drain plugs and drain the water out before you start the machine after it has sat for an extended period of time. I have tried additives over the years and none seemed to help. So if we knew our machines were going to have to set outside for a while we would park them up on blocks. That way we could get underneath them and drain the water out before we started the machines.

I would let your machine sit with the drain plugs out for a couple of days. A lot of the water that has remained will separate and find its way to the lowest point and that should be where the drain plugs are. Unfortunately there isn't much else you can do.

Some guys will flush them with diesel fuel before adding new oil but I never saw that it did much. Put your new oil in and then run the machine for a while. Then park it and after it has sat for a while check your drain plugs again to see if anymore water has settled to the bottom.

That has been my experience and I'm sure some of these other guys will disagree and have another way for you to go. I'm just passing along what has always worked for me and the guys I worked with. I hope it helps.
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.

Bobby H.
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 48
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:53 am
Location: AUSTIN, TEXAS

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by Bobby H. » Mon Feb 16, 2026 11:56 am

Thanks for the info. Yes , options are like the bottom side every one has one :lol: yes putting it on blocks is also helpful for us full figured boy. :lol: Thanks again.

Jim B
350 crawler
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:36 am
Location: western Maine

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by Jim B » Mon Feb 16, 2026 3:21 pm

Another downside to tarps is the poly tarps will hold moisture under them, at least around here.

after checking for water as Leonard mentioned, running them, long enough to get up to operating temperature and keeping it there for an extended time helps evaporate water out.

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Stan Disbrow
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Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: Trans cooler.

Post by Stan Disbrow » Wed Feb 18, 2026 7:52 am

Hi,

And, the various housings breathe. So water vapor gets in even in the pole barn. Then, the temperature drops and the vapor condenses out. The oil in the old style differential reversers were the worst when it came to having oil that bore more resemblance to The Blob than oil every Winter. Danged thing never gets warm enough to drive the water out and Winter is when the dozer gets the most use plowing.

Stan
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