AT36097 Seal install

[Jason37756]

I’m getting ready to do this seal for a 350C with a fluid leak at the spindle.

This will be my first repair on a C model and I’ve done several of these thru the years on the B models.

I didn’t think much about the seal install when I ordered the part, but after looking at the final drive on this wet clutch machine and looking at the parts catalog I’ve noticed there’s no external cap, that I can find on the C like there is on the B. In fact it appears the parts catalog has a B model final drive pictured. I may have ordered the wrong seal.

So my question is am I gonna be removing the final drive on the C ? The B models have the cap with a castle nut underneath and the final can stay on the dozer. And did I in fact order the wrong part?

[LeonardL]

Your seals are the same for both models. And even though the final drives are a bit different they still come apart and reassemble the same way. Personally... I pull the final drives to change these seals. But that's me. You should be able to do it the same way you did on the "B" models.

[Jim B]

From the parts book it appears the castle nut end on the wet clutch Machines (Cs and Ds) fits into a pocket that is part of the steering clutch housing, instead of the external cap. In which case you will need to pull the final drive as Leonard mentioned. Getting under it and looking it over should tell. You should plan on sealing that side of the steering clutch housing as well. The technical manual, TM1115 for the 350C should have some info.

[LeonardL]

Thanks Jim!!! I was just about to clarify that!!! I absolutely blew it on that one!!! Sorry Jason!! No excuse I just flat screwed the pooch!!

[Jim B]

Hi Leonard,

No worry on that front, I screw things up regularly. Hope you are doing well.

Jim

[Jason37756]

Thanks for the bad news fellas…

I did notice two 9/16 bolt heads where the cap would be. I wonder if those bolts hold the housing or “pocket” somehow and maybe that entire apparatus comes out together. Without seeing the pictures in the TM I’m just guessing and I wouldn’t think the drive splines or teeth would allow such a movement anyway.

Also, do you guys think they’ll be any obstructions in pulling the final drive away from the housing. Obviously on the B models and Straights you’ll have to contend with the axle shaft and a brake band that’ll stick to the drum sometimes.

I’ll have to say for a newer model 350 the C didn’t bring much to the table in terms of inspection plates…replaced with holes and a need to remove the fuel tank, hyd tank, and battery box to really see the brake and clutch works. And obviously this seal needing a full removable of the final drive. Seems like a different set of engineers forgot what their predecessors did.

Thanks

[Jason37756]

Just an update if anyone else does this repair.

AT36097 is the correct seal for basically all of the 350 crawlers

The fuel tank and either or both battery box and hydraulic reservoir will need to be removed. This is due to the clutch housing plates, which are partially located underneath these parts.

The final drive will need to be at least partially removed, but I would recommend a complete removal which allows for a more thorough inspection and install of any needed repairs.

The tech manual does give some insight and pictures to help with the process, but it can be done without it. I found that the previous owner had put a washer in wrong and was able to see witness marks to verify and then compared with the tech manual to ensure the correct installation.

Overall I would say this repair requires the same amount of labor as a standard steering clutch repair on a 350 dry clutch machine. Removing battery boxes and a fuel tank is totally uncalled for after the dry clutch machines had an easier design and way to make this same repair without a major disassembly.

That being said the wet clutch crawlers are similar to their dry clutch cousins, but are in fact a different machine so my comparison is like comparing apples to oranges even though they carry a similar model number.

I took my time and used a mini excavator to remove and set the final drive and the entire job took me about 10 hours from the first bolt to the refilling of oil and starting the machine back up…even cleaned my tools and refilled my tool boxes.

Thanks for the help…as always.