350 B Starving for fuel

[jdemaris]

If I do pull the pump, I'll rebuild it my self to save the $$$.
I looked on the JD parts site and it looks like I will need kit # AR34612, (it looks to be seals & gaskets). Is there anything else that I should replace when I tear into the pump. What books / manuals are there for rebuilding the pump? I have a Roosa Master JDB331AL2405, 2500 pump.

I've used many of the aftermarket kits and see no differende in quality. I wouldn't be suprised if Stanadyne and Spaco get their parts from the same sources. I've bought a lot of OEM Stanadyne parts that came from Europe, just as Spaco does. A new so-called "rebuild kit" like you see on Ebay sells new for $12-$14. The Ebay prices are high (as they usually are). I suggest you buy your new parts from US Diesel instead of Ebay.

I regard the word "rebuild" as applied to injection pumps to be a bit silly. For $300 - you cannot get a true rebuild. What you get is a pump that gets maybe $30 in new parts and an hour'or two of labor involved. A tractor/auto engine that gets renewed when rebuilt. Injection pumps routinely get taken apart, cleaned, resealed and few minor hard parts installed. Most major parts are used as-is with no renewal process. When major parts ARE needed, price goes WAY up.

Usually a JDB pump gets . . . a $12 seal kit, a $7 pilot tube, a $12 pump-blade kit, and a $6 housing-regulator-valve. That's about it. In some cases a new $8 metering valve. Someone with experience can take part and put back together in one hour. I certainly can. No special tools needed for cablibration either, Max fuel delivery is set with a 2" inside micrometer. Timing advance can be set on a running engine with a $7 timing-window (if needed).

Kits come in different levels of content. None are "rebuild" kits though.

Deere still sells the pump tech manual - SM-2045. It is also available many places for free by download in a PDF file.

I don't know what your skill level is. The JDB pump is basically just two hydraulic pumps inside one box . . . with an added flyweight governor and a swinging gate valve for throttle. Nothing high tech. Just a lot of stuff crammed into one container. If you can take an automotive carb apart and fix it, you can probably do the same with the JDB injection pump.

I don't know what your problem is. Have you actually run it with NO fitting in top of the pump at all? If you have and it still quits - then you've got an internal fuel flow problem that should be easy to see when apart. My guess is that the low-pressure rotary pump (in back) is worn out. It has four steel spring-loaded vanes and is a high wear item for today's thin low-lube fuels. Its job is to act an an internal fuel pump and feed low pressure fuel to the other high-pressure piston-pump for injection. The US Military stopped using the standard steel blades and use the Stanadyne "Arctic" kit with specially hard blades.

I'm just guessing - but if it starts and quits even with NO fitting at all on top - it's likely worn out pump vanes or a linkage problem on top (to the metering valve). The metering valve is what makes it accelerate, and also shut-off. It's just a simple gate-valve that that swings back and forth. You can see it and operate it by hand when the top cover is off.

[Mark K]

Thank you, jdemaris, for all of the helpful info.

The new lifter pump finally came in late yesterday afternoon. Today I installed the new starter (what a difference) and new lifter fuel pump. Bled fuel filters, fuel line and injector lines. The tractor started right up ran a minute or so and then shut off. Looks like the bad lifter pump was not my only problem.

I removed the check valve and the return line from the injection pump and the tractor ran, with the fuel just coming out the injection pump return port. I bled each injector and as I opened each injector line I heard the corresponding cylinder stop firing and then return to firing when I closed up each line, (my cylinders all have compression).

I then blew out the return with compressed air. The return is clear. I reinstalled the check valve and the return valve on the injection pump. The tractor started right up, but shut off after about 5-10 seconds. I removed the check valve and return line again and then started the tractor. The tractor runs without the check valve or return line attached. I then reinstalled the check valve and return line with the tractor running and the tractor soon stalled.


jdemaris wrote:
Usually a JDB pump gets . . . a $12 seal kit, a $7 pilot tube, a $12 pump-blade kit, and a $6 housing-regulator-valve. That's about it. In some cases a new $8 metering valve. Someone with experience can take part and put back together in one hour. I certainly can. No special tools needed for cablibration either, Max fuel delivery is set with a 2" inside micrometer. Timing advance can be set on a running engine with a $7 timing-window (if needed).

Is the list above everything that I may need to fix the IJ pump? I'm in the process of building a new shop right now and I need to get this tractor running. The excavator dug the foundation hole today 60' x40' building, I now have a mountain of dirt to move / grade as well as many large rocks and all of the stumps to move. I don't have much time as winter is beginning
to set in. I found the tech manual SM-2045 on line but was not able to print it, I'll just pay and download it from Deere.

As far as my skill level. I rebuilt my reverser, hydrostatic transmission, on my JD 755 tractor. The drive shaft had the end sheared off, and I needed to replace it, so I replaced all of the seals and bearings while I had it disassembled on the bench. That had a hydraulic motor and a pump, it was very easy to work on. I do all of the work on my equipement and trucks from routine maintenance to complete rebuilds, so I'm confident that I can fix the pump.


Thank you for any help or suggestions,

Mark

[Mark K]

Today I pulled the injector pump. When I removed the timing cover/window from the pump, I found the cavity packed solid with "mouse turds". I need to get the dozer running asap, so I'm picking up a "rebuilt" pump in the morning and with any luck, by lunch time I will be pushing dirt.

[Mark K]

I installed the new injection pump today and the tractor runs fantastic.
Thank you all for the help.

Mark