The good news:
Rydahls brake company called, my brake bands are ready.
The bad news:
Värm-dal (JD tractors) called to say that the metal discs for the steering
T 20717 T was no longer available one at the time, but only as a kit, and that kit was expensive.
The no news at all:
The friend of the friend has asked Lesjöfors about making springs for me, no reply from there yet though.
Lavoy, do you sell the metal discs one and one? Price?
If i should fail at getting springs, what is your price for a steering pressure plate?
JD 450 in Sweden
Hello, unfortunatley Lesjöfors could not help me with the springs after all.
I am trying to locate parts in Germany with some help since i don`t speak German.
I guess i will have to be patient a while longer.
Thought i would share pictures of another crawler with you, it is a machine i helped my father in law fix up.
It is not a John Deere but i hope it is all right anyway.
Might i ask what kind of oil i should use in the differential/brake housing of this Oliver?
[/img]
I am trying to locate parts in Germany with some help since i don`t speak German.
I guess i will have to be patient a while longer.
Thought i would share pictures of another crawler with you, it is a machine i helped my father in law fix up.
It is not a John Deere but i hope it is all right anyway.
Might i ask what kind of oil i should use in the differential/brake housing of this Oliver?
[/img]Ulf the Swede
-
jdemaris
Don't use GL5 oil
Worst thing you can do is to put modern GL5 type gear oil, or any other oil that has EP additives. The phosphorus and zinc will plug your brake-bands up - fast. The transaxle in your crawler was made by Clark and is real touchy with the wrong oil. Same Clark transaxle is used in some Bombardiers, Case, Terractacs, etc. Use non-degergent straight-grade motor oil in the transaxle. 30 or 40W is used in mostly warm weather, and 20W if real cold. Make sure it's non-detergent.
Bet your crawler is awful fast in 1st gear. Oliver offered an aux. transmission kit it makes it run like a different machine. Night-and-day difference. Put the aux into it and it will have a 1st gear like a Deere 420.
Without the aux it runs 2 MPH in 1st, and with the aux it can run as slow as .6 MPH.
With the Ford Model A 3 speed transmission installed as an auxillary unit, ground speeds
at full throttle are as follows:
No aux: 1st - 2.01 m.p.h., 2nd - 3.19 m.p.h., 3rd - 5.24 m.p.h., Rev. - 2.33 m.p.h.
With three speed aux:
Range 1: 1st - .64 m.p.h., 2nd - 1.02 m.p.h., 3rd - 1.68 m.p.h., Rev. - .74 m.p.h.
Range 2: 1st - 1.08 m.p.h., 2nd - 1.72 m.p.h., 3rd - 2.83 m.p.h., Rev. - 1.26 m.p.h.
Range 3: 1st - 2.01 m.p.h., 2nd - 3.19 m.p.h., 3rd - 5.24 m.p.h., Rev. - 2.33 m.p.h.
Range Rev.: 1st - .53 rev. m.p.h., 2nd - .85 rev. m.p.h., 3rd - 1.4 rev. m.p.h., Rev. - .62
Bet your crawler is awful fast in 1st gear. Oliver offered an aux. transmission kit it makes it run like a different machine. Night-and-day difference. Put the aux into it and it will have a 1st gear like a Deere 420.
Without the aux it runs 2 MPH in 1st, and with the aux it can run as slow as .6 MPH.
With the Ford Model A 3 speed transmission installed as an auxillary unit, ground speeds
at full throttle are as follows:
No aux: 1st - 2.01 m.p.h., 2nd - 3.19 m.p.h., 3rd - 5.24 m.p.h., Rev. - 2.33 m.p.h.
With three speed aux:
Range 1: 1st - .64 m.p.h., 2nd - 1.02 m.p.h., 3rd - 1.68 m.p.h., Rev. - .74 m.p.h.
Range 2: 1st - 1.08 m.p.h., 2nd - 1.72 m.p.h., 3rd - 2.83 m.p.h., Rev. - 1.26 m.p.h.
Range 3: 1st - 2.01 m.p.h., 2nd - 3.19 m.p.h., 3rd - 5.24 m.p.h., Rev. - 2.33 m.p.h.
Range Rev.: 1st - .53 rev. m.p.h., 2nd - .85 rev. m.p.h., 3rd - 1.4 rev. m.p.h., Rev. - .62
[/img]-
jdemaris
That is the same gearbox that's in the photo I posted. Like I said, it's a Clark transaxle.
In regard to oil. I don't know any way to tell what oil you aleady have in it, but new oil in a can will say non-detergent on the label if that is what it is.
Pretty common oil at farm supply stores for older tractors.
In regard to oil. I don't know any way to tell what oil you aleady have in it, but new oil in a can will say non-detergent on the label if that is what it is.
Pretty common oil at farm supply stores for older tractors.
I wonderd about new oils, sorry if i was unclear.
I can´t say that i have seen detergents mentioned on the label of any oilbottle that i can remember, i guess that those have detergents and that i should look for a bottle with a label that spicifies non detergent.
We have installed new brake bands with some sort of metal fibres instead of the original ones that i belive were cotton based, if that makes any difference when it comes to oil choice?
I can´t say that i have seen detergents mentioned on the label of any oilbottle that i can remember, i guess that those have detergents and that i should look for a bottle with a label that spicifies non detergent.
We have installed new brake bands with some sort of metal fibres instead of the original ones that i belive were cotton based, if that makes any difference when it comes to oil choice?
Ulf the Swede
-
jdemaris
Now adays, most engine oils are detergent and non-detergent versions are the odd-balls. So, labels that say anything about detergency are rare. Look for the label that states "non-degergent."
In regard to your linings that differ from OEM? I don't know. The original bands worked very well and were long lasting. Just tend to plug up easy with any EP additives. They also unplug fast, if you remove the wrong oil and put the correct stuff in. With the EP additives, they slip and don't grab.
With alternative linings like you've got? Try it and see, I guess. I know several people that installed Ford Model T transmission super-duty Kevlar bands and there was no gain. They did not work as well as the original style. The orignals are still available and don't cost very much, so I personally have never found reason to bother with anything else. The differentials tend to fall apart long before the OEM bands wear out.
In regard to your linings that differ from OEM? I don't know. The original bands worked very well and were long lasting. Just tend to plug up easy with any EP additives. They also unplug fast, if you remove the wrong oil and put the correct stuff in. With the EP additives, they slip and don't grab.
With alternative linings like you've got? Try it and see, I guess. I know several people that installed Ford Model T transmission super-duty Kevlar bands and there was no gain. They did not work as well as the original style. The orignals are still available and don't cost very much, so I personally have never found reason to bother with anything else. The differentials tend to fall apart long before the OEM bands wear out.
-
jdemaris
From the OEM Cletrac HG manual. Non-detergent SAE 30W or 40W motor oil is basically the same thing as GL1 90W gear oil. Different number systems for the same viscosity. Both are the same viscosity and both based on pure mineral oil with some anti-foaming ingredients added only. Where I live, it's easier to find it in the motor oil classification since all the NAPA stores, and also all the Tractor Supply stores have it. GL1 sold as "gear oil" has become a special order item in most stores around here - even though it is the same thing as the motor oils.
I have been asking around about non detergent oils localy, but no luck so far.
I called Castrol Sweden, but they said that they do not have such oils any more.
I also called Agrol oils, they did not have any suitable motoroils, but they said that any 80W-90 GL 5 transmission oil should work fine, since they don`t have any detergents, only motoroils and ATF oils have detergents according to them.
What do you think?
PS. jdemaris, you asked about what injectionpump i have on my 450 a while back and i said i could take a picture of it, i haven`t forgotten, it`s just that the loader is in the way now, and i can`t start the machine because i have no fueltank on it.
I called Castrol Sweden, but they said that they do not have such oils any more.
I also called Agrol oils, they did not have any suitable motoroils, but they said that any 80W-90 GL 5 transmission oil should work fine, since they don`t have any detergents, only motoroils and ATF oils have detergents according to them.
What do you think?
PS. jdemaris, you asked about what injectionpump i have on my 450 a while back and i said i could take a picture of it, i haven`t forgotten, it`s just that the loader is in the way now, and i can`t start the machine because i have no fueltank on it.
Ulf the Swede
-
jdemaris
No, you do not want GL-5.
It is NO good for your Cletrac. The detergent aspect is not the issue, it's the EP (extreme pressure) additives that GL5 oil has that plug up the steering brake bands - mostly the zinc and phosphorus.D557017 wrote:I . . . they said that any 80W-90 GL 5 transmission oil should work fine, since they don`t have any detergents, only motoroils and ATF oils have detergents according to them.
What do you think?
The reason why I mentioned non-detergent motor oils is not because they lack detergents. It's more because such oils are usually plain SAE oil with no additives - detergents or EP additives.
Like Lavoy mentioned earlier - you can also buy the same under the gear-lube rating as GL1. GL-1 gearlube is basically the same thing as non-detergent 30 weight motor oil.
Since you have a Castrol dealer nearby, just ask for Castrol ST90 or whatever they call it in your country.
"Castrol ST Gear Oil SAE 90 is a high quality straight mineral gear
oil which complies to the API GL-1"
I was not aware what EP was, but now i do so thank you for the education.
Called Castrol again but the ST 90 oil is not sold in Sweden.
I found a transmission oil locally though, not singelgrade (80W-90) but it is GL-1 and it said non EP on the label, what do you think?
http://www.medelsta.lt/pdf/Statoil_Gear ... 80W-90.pdf
No word about the JD parts yet
Called Castrol again but the ST 90 oil is not sold in Sweden.
I found a transmission oil locally though, not singelgrade (80W-90) but it is GL-1 and it said non EP on the label, what do you think?
http://www.medelsta.lt/pdf/Statoil_Gear ... 80W-90.pdf
No word about the JD parts yet
Ulf the Swede
Hello everybody. Since there were no objections we got that oil for the Oliver.
Now back to John Deere, because finally i have a machine that steers both right and left
I newer got ahold of any springs, but with some help i found a used pressure plate (not here in Sweden though) and took the best parts from that and the best parts from my old plate and made them into one.
The undercarrdige is in bad shape and so is the backhoe, would have been a good opportunity to replace the undercarridge when i was fixing the steering/brake system but due to financial reasons (as allways) it will have to wait, instead the backhoe will be next.
I don`t suppose undercarrige parts would fit from any other crawler that might be more common in my corner of the world like a caterpillar IH or something else?
I made new wear strips for the front idler ( i think it`s called?) when i replaced the track tensioning seals
jdemaris, here is the picture i promised you.
Ulf from Sunne in Sweden
Now back to John Deere, because finally i have a machine that steers both right and left
I newer got ahold of any springs, but with some help i found a used pressure plate (not here in Sweden though) and took the best parts from that and the best parts from my old plate and made them into one.
The undercarrdige is in bad shape and so is the backhoe, would have been a good opportunity to replace the undercarridge when i was fixing the steering/brake system but due to financial reasons (as allways) it will have to wait, instead the backhoe will be next.
I don`t suppose undercarrige parts would fit from any other crawler that might be more common in my corner of the world like a caterpillar IH or something else?
I made new wear strips for the front idler ( i think it`s called?) when i replaced the track tensioning seals
jdemaris, here is the picture i promised you.
Ulf from Sunne in Sweden
Ulf the Swede
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 64 guests