Corking a crawler, 450B

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Willie B
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Corking a crawler, 450B

Post by Willie B » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:15 pm

A local logger bought 10 350s at one purchase. He had many other John Deere crawlers and skidders. All of his got corked with alternating 2 or 1 short pieces of grouser stock. At the time I was a kid, the people who did the work are gone. What sort of steel are track pads made of? Can they be welded cold, or is preheat needed? I'm concerned it'll be a big flying saucer should I get side hill in winter. Are there better patterns to use?
An optimist is usually wrong, and doomed to disappointment. he is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, delighted to be wrong, and is well prepared.

B Town
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Post by B Town » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:15 pm

I would use weld-on grouser bar steel. There are many different shapes and sizes. I would use a fairly straight profile if I were corking. Yes, is must be preheated and I would use 7018 electrode.

Deere sold ice chaulks at one time. Screwed two on per pad. I priced them at $6.50 each. So I started saving my money to buy 128 of them. I went back to order them and Deere told me they were $450 EACH. I said per machine, per side?? No per piece!!! The counterman thought that was a like steep, but the territory Manager confirmed the supper high price. I'm exercising patience and have considered building some. Good Luck, Bruce

Willie B
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Post by Willie B » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:48 pm

If I read right they may be made of diamonds?? At the time (40 years ago) I remember conversation of the new crawlers the loggers hadn't found time to cork would inevitably end up upside down. The joke was you had to throw away your pants, would it be battery acid, or $hit?

High manganese grouser stock I've been using many years for other purposes, mostly cutting edge on buckets, was the material of choice. I've never corked a crawler, but seen the process. They welded 1/3 width pieces center of one, edges of next to control side slip.
An optimist is usually wrong, and doomed to disappointment. he is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, delighted to be wrong, and is well prepared.

B Town
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Post by B Town » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:03 pm

Willie, I'm sorry I miss read your original post. I'm not certain of the metallurgy of the pads, they definitely need pre-heat. I agree a center piece on one pad and then inner/outer edge pieces on the next pad pattern. This is the pattern Deere used in the two cylinder era of track type tractors with snow pads.

Willie B
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Post by Willie B » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:38 pm

Would the heat damage the track chain? Do they have to be unbolted to do it? Is there a better way?
An optimist is usually wrong, and doomed to disappointment. he is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, delighted to be wrong, and is well prepared.

B Town
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Post by B Town » Fri Dec 18, 2015 8:12 pm

No damage to the chain even a SALT chain. Only preheating to 300-400 degrees. The big boys will weld one lug per pad. The lug is much less than 1/3 of the width of the pad. They will alternate that lug, one on the left of center the next right side of center. I don't think one way is better or worse. One lug per pad is quicker, cheaper, and usually wore off by the end of the winter season. Only a very small wore done lump.

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Fri Dec 18, 2015 8:32 pm

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ght=caulks

Willie: here's a thread I started on this topic a few years ago. You might find it useful. Use the search feature and "caulks" to find more info too. Paul
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NWJD fan
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Corking

Post by NWJD fan » Sat Dec 19, 2015 12:55 pm

I corked my straight 350 loader with 1x3 inch grouser bar. Did every pad alternating 2 and 1 (54 corks per side) which was probably overkill. Stitched them on with a 180 amp mig welder running off a 6 kw generator with .035 flux core wire, no preheat. They are all still there 7 years later. Gets around much better than the bare triple semi grouser loader pads. Not the smoothest riding beast on firm ground though. Gouser stock was around $1.00 a piece when I bought it. 1x3 was the smallest I could get

Willie B
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Post by Willie B » Sat Dec 19, 2015 1:35 pm

I'm feeling it might be better to do it before I have a wreck. I remember my first backhoe, a JD 410. I reasoned a machine that heavy wouldn't need tire chains. I soon learned I had a seven ton hockey puck that would slide effortlessly anywhere gravity wanted it to go.
An optimist is usually wrong, and doomed to disappointment. he is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, delighted to be wrong, and is well prepared.

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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Sat Dec 19, 2015 2:54 pm

I'm just trying to understand this thread, but can anyone post a photo of their "corked" pads? So the welded grouser bar pieces go on the existing grouser bar? Or on the flat area of the pad?
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Sat Dec 19, 2015 2:59 pm

Hi,

I found out a long time ago that ice caulks are necessary in the winter on a hill. If you think a wheel tractor makes a hockey puck in the mud, you will have more fun with all those ice skates going downhill.(!)

Stan
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Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
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Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Sat Dec 19, 2015 3:02 pm

here is the type bar i used when i regrousered my 2010 http://catalog.stulzsicklessteel.com/it ... /item-1344
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

s281jim
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Post by s281jim » Sun Dec 20, 2015 11:48 am

Notmeu, it is welded to the base of the pad, perpendicular to the grouser, an attempt to curb sliding sideways on a hill

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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Sun Dec 20, 2015 12:04 pm

s281jim wrote:Notmeu, it is welded to the base of the pad, perpendicular to the grouser, an attempt to curb sliding sideways on a hill
Thanks s281jim, i was a little confused after googling corking they showed pictures and video of adding pieces to the grouser. I would of thought welding perpendicular to the grouser would of made more sense to prevent sliding sideways.
1956 JD420, gearmatic 8a winch, custom 6 way blade and FOPS.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Sun Dec 20, 2015 1:14 pm

Hi,

The issue, at least for me, was the machine rotating sideways way too easily on a hillside when plowing snow. Then, the frozen ground acts like a hockey rink and the grousers like skates - and away we go!

I went with the other option, ice caulks. They are conical studs that replace the pad bolts. They act like studs in snow tires, poking their way into the frozen tundra.

They are still on the 420c, even though they are mostly out of a job now (here in NC).

The discussion did become a little unclear there as we also got to discussing snow pads with their alternating grouser height and clearing holes.

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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