Water in transmission

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bennyt
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Water in transmission

Post by bennyt » Sun Feb 14, 2016 3:28 pm

I just purchased a JD 450 '70 model and it has water in the transmission. The service manual recommends to flush but does not say what to flush with. What do you experts use. By the way, this is a very informative board. I will probably have a lot of questions since this is my first dozer. Thanks in advance.

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DrLoch
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Post by DrLoch » Sun Feb 14, 2016 4:26 pm

What series, A, B, C...
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bennyt
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Post by bennyt » Mon Feb 15, 2016 7:10 am

It's a 450.

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:20 am

What DR meant was is it a straight 450 , 450B or 450C.... 1970 could be straight 450 or 450B ..... 450C would be 1976 and up..... If it is a "450" it is best to say its a "straight 450" stops the confusion :D :D
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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DrLoch
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Post by DrLoch » Mon Feb 15, 2016 1:12 pm

jtrichard wrote:What DR meant was is it a straight 450 , 450B or 450C.... 1970 could be straight 450 or 450B ..... 450C would be 1976 and up..... If it is a "450" it is best to say its a "straight 450" stops the confusion :D :D
Yea that's what I meant to say.......
If it's anything but a C you have dry final clutches and will need to drain everything and leave the final drive plugs open to try and get all the moisture out. Do not flush the finals with anything. While you have the plugs out you may want to wire the control handles back so the final clutches don't rust and stick to the steels.
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B Town
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Post by B Town » Mon Feb 15, 2016 1:55 pm

OP is asking about the transmission, I believe. The clutch houses did not have a common sump in the straight and B series, as stated the steering clutches should be dry. The C series can be converted to a common sump, i think some of the late C's came from the factory with common sumps, correct me if wrong.

Overall, I agree. If the is water in the steering housing- drain, tie handles back, don't put anything in there, and be very patient to let dry. I also think draining the trans and letting it dry on its own is the best. New filter, new fluid and a short cycle change. Take care, Bruce

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DrLoch
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Post by DrLoch » Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:18 am

Bruce you are correct, guess I didn't read and understand correctly. I have a C with common sumps, I can also add that it's an old age thing....
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bennyt
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Post by bennyt » Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:06 pm

Sorry for the confusion. It's a straight. I'm talking about water in the transmission fluid.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:14 pm

Hi,

The oil has additives that pick up water, so I just drain the old out and put in new. Then, change it again in short order. The oil changes color as the additives saturate, so that helps to know when to change it again.

Stan
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bennyt
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Post by bennyt » Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:08 pm

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Scottyb
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Post by Scottyb » Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:40 pm

To my surprise, I retrieved a pail of milky oil that I had put into a warm room in the basement last summer and, the water has settled out. It was fairly new oil before the water got into it and it looks good as new now. I had put it into a clear container or I might not have noticed and sent it to the recycle tank. Not sure if this always works but I will try it again next time I have milky oil.
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slwbid
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water in oil

Post by slwbid » Wed Mar 09, 2016 6:32 pm

ScottyB,
I had a similar experience with a dozer 20 years ago. It had been sitting for 5 years. I knew water was in the oil, so I drained it.
As I recall, a small amount of brackish gunk came out first, then almost pure looking water came out first. Then to my amazement, out came what looked like brand new oil. I didn't reuse it, but probably could have.

So it's true. Let a mixture of oil and water sit long enough and they totally separate.
Stacy
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