450 straight crawler hard nose removed. Now what?

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slwbid
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450 straight crawler hard nose removed. Now what?

Post by slwbid » Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:52 pm

I have removed hard nose, so as to take radiator and transmission to get them rodded out

While I have nose off, is there anything else I should do?
Stacy

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Wed Mar 23, 2016 11:44 am

If I had the nose and radiator out, I would look at replacing the fan belts and checking the water pump pulley for excessive play, at a minimum. it probably wouldn't be a bad time to replace radiator hoses and the thermostat either.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

slwbid
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hardnose removed - now how to replace fanbelt

Post by slwbid » Wed Mar 23, 2016 3:49 pm

Thanks!
My thoughts exactly about the fan belt. "Easy" I thought now that I have hard nose and radiator off.
Wrong.
They sure don't make 'em like they use to....and I sure am glad.
This is like a Chinese puzzle.

I really would like to replace the alternator belt without having to disassemble the few remaining assembled pieces of this machine.

The hydraulic pump blocks the belt from coming off. Removed the Hyd Pump, but still stymied. The shaft that connects the pump to geared/slotted pulley on front of dozer wont retract enough to get the belt out.

There is a spring loaded set of "guidance" arms?? that sort of straddle this shaft. If that were removed, then I could back out the shaft enough to get belt out. But that doe not seem easy to remove.

Manual is not a lot of help. Troubleshooting says refer to section 40-1, I think for replacing alternator belt. That section says to replace alternator. Zero help.

Help ....anybody.
Stacy

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Wed Mar 23, 2016 4:23 pm

If I remember correctly, the yoke and coupling you refer to is designed to slide on the splined shaft so that the pump could be disconnected/connected and the belts changed out. since this yoke is relatively inaccessible, they often seized on the shaft, and then changing a belt is doubly challenging. Good luck getting yours freed up and working properly. I'm sure others who own 450s currently can be more helpful. Paul
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egeor
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Post by egeor » Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:04 pm

on the 350 straight that splined coupling has a lever attached to it . when working properly the coupling can be move forward allowing one to change the belt without removing the hydraulic pump.
I would make sure it is working properly before reassembly it is a nice feature that was done away with on later models
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slwbid
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picture of yoke and Alternator Belt removal

Post by slwbid » Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:59 pm

see the attached picture, and offer advice please. I have the belt above the right side of shaft yoke now, but no room on left side. I am unsure how to move the yoke to left without breaking something.

Additionally, this "yoke" looks very worn to me, but I've no picture of a new one to compare to.

So,though I've figure out how to get the belt off (cut it), but I still need advice on how to get a new belt on in one piece (without breaking off that left yoke)

Thanks

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8we8 ... GNGVEd6Z2M
Last edited by slwbid on Wed Mar 23, 2016 9:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Stacy

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Tigerhaze
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Re: picture of yoke and Alternator Belt removal

Post by Tigerhaze » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:26 pm

slwbid wrote: (I'll have to add the pic later...after I've figured out how)
This will explain how to do it- you need to host the photos on a sharing site such as Photobucket and then link to it here.

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=3690
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

egeor
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Post by egeor » Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:13 am

The splined coupling has to come off . That coupling should move freely on the shaft.The spring keeps the coupling in place with light pressure.
You will have to use some type of puller to get the coupling off. than clean it
It should slide on both shafts freely.
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89 ford 2120 4x4

slwbid
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Changing alternator belt

Post by slwbid » Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:12 am

Thanks egear and others.
This my first pic to post. Are you able to see it?
The problem is the the yoke will not allow the splined shafts to pull ann farther away from the half of the shaft/pulley that us,attached to front of engine.

This set up looks very much like a parts picture ice seen where aever handle is used to rotate the yoke forward to gain clearance to remote belt.
But there is no handle on mine.
Not sure if it broke off or was never there.
I may try a pipe wrench on the shaft yoke is attached to to see if it will move
Stacy

slwbid
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Picture can be seen now

Post by slwbid » Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:39 am

I think some of you tried viewing the pic I attached earlier but we're probably blocked.
You should be ablessed to view now.
Sorry
Stacy

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Post by JD430C » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:59 am

Sense you have the radiator off just take the front housing off. There is only 4 bolts that hold it to the engine. The yoke and shaft should come out with the housing.

Andrew
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jsal
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Post by jsal » Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:12 pm

I believe that lever was intended for cold weather starting not for belt changes
their is not enough clearance it disengages the hydraulic pump from the engine

JIM

slwbid
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replacing alternator belt

Post by slwbid » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:57 pm

thanks for all the tips.
I was able to work the yoke forward enough for the hydro pumpshaft to clear from the dive pulley on motor, for the belt to come through.

Not sure if that was the intent of the pivoting yoke, but it worked.

Yeah!

slwbid
Stacy

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