350b loader grouser bars

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jtb51b
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350b loader grouser bars

Post by jtb51b » Fri May 06, 2016 3:59 pm

I have searched and cant seem to find an appropriate answer. My 350 pads are worn out, the bolt heads (new rails) stick up higher than the grouser bars. Mine is a loader, and therefor has the triple grouser pads. I would like to add more height to the triple bars. My plan is .500 square stock cut into 12" lengths and weld 3 per pad. I understand its a TON of welding, but I have time on my hands. I believe this will take me at or just above the original height. Anyone see any problems with this plan? Will I be adding undue stress on my driveline? I have been using the machine for a year or so on the farm and it does great, except on anything slick then I can only move straight no steering allowed. Even on dry ground steering on a leaf covered hillside is an issue..

Thanks,
Jason
JD 350B Loader (unknown serial number)

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Fri May 06, 2016 4:05 pm

At half an inch you won't hurt a thing. If you never really run it on concrete, you could do the front and back grouser, that will give you a little more traction on loose surface.
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jtb51b
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Post by jtb51b » Fri May 06, 2016 6:59 pm

Never runs on hard surfaces.. Only time is will see concrete is when it comes into the shop to be repaired. In reality it sees a LOT of time running around in the woods or turning a manure pile. I will maybe start with the front and rear bars and work my way to the middle later. Thanks for the suggestion..

Jason
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Post by NWJD fan » Fri May 06, 2016 11:53 pm

Rather than welding full length strips of grouser material I caulked my loader pads using 3 inch long by 3/4 inch tall pieces of preformed grouser material purpose made for ice lugging on crawlers and it drastically improved my machines ability to get around in slippery conditions. I did every pad alternating 2 then 1 caulk. Would probably work fine doing every second pad. Did it all in 1 day with a 180 amp wire feeder and .035 flux core and all 108 caulks are still there 10 years later.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Sat May 07, 2016 5:23 am

Hi,

Weld two 1/3 length bars with a 1/3 space between them on one end grouser of each pad. Then, only one 1/3 length bar on the other end grouser of each pad. Leave the center bar alone.

That would make psudeo-snow grousers on a loader, give you more grip, and save you a lot of welding.

Now....is this a Silly or a Smart idea?? :P

Stan
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Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Sat May 07, 2016 8:34 am

I like Lavoy's idea. By running the grouser stock full length, the pads will be stiffened somewhat and stay flatter longer. Maybe a short piece between the two longs over the rails will give some additional side- hill bite. Not sure that the "longs" need to be welded full length to work and stay on. Could always go back and finish if it looked like it was needed. Another two cents. Good luck.
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jtb51b
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Post by jtb51b » Sat May 07, 2016 8:56 am

All good suggestions. Rather than weld full length I planned to weld the front of each bar 4" on each end and the back 4" in the center. IT appears someone has tried this repair on this machine once before but they welded rebar on a FEW pads and only one bar per pad. THey have long since worn off. They appear to have been welded the way I had envisioned myself doing it and they did not break off, but worn away over the years. I considered rebar but I can buy square stock for about the same money and it would be a little stiffer and maybe hold the pads flatter, longer.


Thanks for all the ideas, I plan to do this while I have it in my buddies shop replacing the left side steering clutch. Its not completely shot but I hypothesize that having the left side slipping more causes undue stress on the right side since I lean more on it. Maybe I am wrong but I am hoping to get some additional life from the right side once the left is doing its share. I also believe I am going to go with semi metallic clutches on my machine due to the heat and humidity here in the south. My machine with its power steering is extremely easy to steer so I dont forsee any issues there.

Jason
JD 350B Loader (unknown serial number)

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Post by HodgieMoggy » Mon May 16, 2016 7:40 am

This is what I did on my 555 as I was working in softer clay soil. They worked extremely well.
http://s667.photobucket.com/user/Hodgie ... k%20Loader
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Post by NWJD fan » Mon May 16, 2016 9:59 pm

I did the same as Hodgiemoggy on my 350 loader except that my caulks were not as tall and all were same length and yes it does work very well in greasy and icy conditions and as Stan mentioned, much less welding.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Tue May 17, 2016 6:23 am

Hi,

Even less welding than I was envisioning. I was thinking to do three caulks per pad, as opposed to two then one on every other pad. Same pattern, though.

Actually, the every other pad scheme is exactly what they did on the snow pads.

Come to think on it, my snow pad grousers are worn such that I can only barely make out the pattern these days. I might want to think on building them back up myself.... ;)

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Post by HodgieMoggy » Tue May 17, 2016 7:41 am

I used the manufactured grouser bars and a box of 5/32 7018 welding rod cost for everything was under $200 plus my time of course.
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