John Deere 350 Loader with Backhoe
Hello
Ya i thought it looked like a generator but im not expert so just double check. Yes there was a regulator bolted to the frame. I was impressed it said made in england because ive never seen anything ever come from that country.
Where could i get a new solenoid and starter? I really dont want to go through my JD distributor because they told me its 400 bucks for a solenoid and i dont want to pay that much just cause it has some JD name to it when there could be the exact product sold somewhere else for 300 bucks cheaper or something.
With the battery, do i need two 12v running parralel or is a single fine?
Thanks
Ya i thought it looked like a generator but im not expert so just double check. Yes there was a regulator bolted to the frame. I was impressed it said made in england because ive never seen anything ever come from that country.
Where could i get a new solenoid and starter? I really dont want to go through my JD distributor because they told me its 400 bucks for a solenoid and i dont want to pay that much just cause it has some JD name to it when there could be the exact product sold somewhere else for 300 bucks cheaper or something.
With the battery, do i need two 12v running parralel or is a single fine?
Thanks
Here is a starter (there is a phone number you can ask questions)and there others on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GEAR-REDUCT ... 5f&vxp=mtr
Here is the type battery you will need one should be enough I be-live the parallel battery system was a COLD weather option
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produc ... tery-hp31e
Solenoid
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/MP ... 0223709943
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GEAR-REDUCT ... 5f&vxp=mtr
Here is the type battery you will need one should be enough I be-live the parallel battery system was a COLD weather option
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produc ... tery-hp31e
Solenoid
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/MP ... 0223709943
Last edited by jtrichard on Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Well that was a first when i clicked submit it came back as an error SO I tried again and same thing so tried 2 more times same thing then i thought i wonder if it posted anyway so i opened another window and looked and the it was 4 times ......
Here is what came back when i submitted
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Here is what came back when i submitted
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File : emailer.php
Last edited by jtrichard on Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Hi
Last edited by jtrichard on Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
Hello
I got a starter with solenoid purchased.
Now since the wiring is pretty much all junk on this thing...unfortunately i am going to have to bypass it...even thougj i dont want to really do that.
If that makes noise but doesnt turn over the motor that would tell me the motors stuck right?
Ill get that far into this repair before i start asking about wiring again and such.
Thanks
I got a starter with solenoid purchased.
Now since the wiring is pretty much all junk on this thing...unfortunately i am going to have to bypass it...even thougj i dont want to really do that.
If that makes noise but doesnt turn over the motor that would tell me the motors stuck right?
Ill get that far into this repair before i start asking about wiring again and such.
Thanks
- Al Swearengen
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:01 am
- Location: Sierra Nevadas...Gold Country!
With the starter out, is there no way to get a lever in there and pry on the ring gear to see if it moves?Boren420 wrote:Hello
I got a starter with solenoid purchased.
Now since the wiring is pretty much all junk on this thing...unfortunately i am going to have to bypass it...even thougj i dont want to really do that.
If that makes noise but doesnt turn over the motor that would tell me the motors stuck right?
Ill get that far into this repair before i start asking about wiring again and such.
Thanks
The starter is not out yet so i am not sure.
Depending on when i get off work today, i might go out and try to get the steel panel off to get access to the starter and try to get it off but i may just spray some wd40 type stuff on it to let that soak in before i attempt to pry on rusted bolts.
Im really hoping that the engine is loose and this is all just an electrical issue.
Depending on when i get off work today, i might go out and try to get the steel panel off to get access to the starter and try to get it off but i may just spray some wd40 type stuff on it to let that soak in before i attempt to pry on rusted bolts.
Im really hoping that the engine is loose and this is all just an electrical issue.
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The solenoid is essentially a high power relay. You apply 12v to the solenoid coil and a piston moves inside it to connect the fat power cable to the starter field coils and the armature brushes.
Presuming all those are good, then the starter spins and the bendix moves the pinion gear into the ring gear and we have engine turn over.
Sometimes the solenoids fail. Sometimes the brushes and also the armature wears as well. Far less common is the field coils fail (however, I just went thru a field coil failure).
By replacing the entire starter, you will be addressing all of the above.
So, now you need to rewire it. It is a diesel, so you can ignore the generator and regulator for now. Just do the starter.
You need to run a new positive power cable from the new battery to the new starter. Then, run a wire from that terminal to a new push button on the dash. And, a new wire from the other lug on that button to the start terminal of the starter.
Don't forget to get a new ground cable as well.
Lift that throttle up halfway, and push that button.
Ought to turn right over. Should run if the fuel system is OK.
Stan
The solenoid is essentially a high power relay. You apply 12v to the solenoid coil and a piston moves inside it to connect the fat power cable to the starter field coils and the armature brushes.
Presuming all those are good, then the starter spins and the bendix moves the pinion gear into the ring gear and we have engine turn over.
Sometimes the solenoids fail. Sometimes the brushes and also the armature wears as well. Far less common is the field coils fail (however, I just went thru a field coil failure).
By replacing the entire starter, you will be addressing all of the above.
So, now you need to rewire it. It is a diesel, so you can ignore the generator and regulator for now. Just do the starter.
You need to run a new positive power cable from the new battery to the new starter. Then, run a wire from that terminal to a new push button on the dash. And, a new wire from the other lug on that button to the start terminal of the starter.
Don't forget to get a new ground cable as well.
Lift that throttle up halfway, and push that button.
Ought to turn right over. Should run if the fuel system is OK.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
- Al Swearengen
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:01 am
- Location: Sierra Nevadas...Gold Country!
Hello
So thanks for how to run that wiring. That made it very simple for me. Now i ordered a push button start because from what i could tell is that it had a key to run power but took a button to start it. Well the new key ignition i ordered came with an extra feature....it turns like a car key so i dont think i need the push button...but i would prefer to find a key ignition that didnt run like a car ignition so i dont have a empty hole in my dash where a push button should be. Anyone know where i can find a simple on off key ignition?
The fuel system i am not sure of. The tank was empty but with it sitting for a few years....im not sure if it has gelled up in the lines or grown any algea. But thats another issue to tackle after i get this damn thing started....or trying to start.
I appreciate all the help everyone
So thanks for how to run that wiring. That made it very simple for me. Now i ordered a push button start because from what i could tell is that it had a key to run power but took a button to start it. Well the new key ignition i ordered came with an extra feature....it turns like a car key so i dont think i need the push button...but i would prefer to find a key ignition that didnt run like a car ignition so i dont have a empty hole in my dash where a push button should be. Anyone know where i can find a simple on off key ignition?
The fuel system i am not sure of. The tank was empty but with it sitting for a few years....im not sure if it has gelled up in the lines or grown any algea. But thats another issue to tackle after i get this damn thing started....or trying to start.
I appreciate all the help everyone
(DAMN cap lock i did not want to retype all over again) YES YOU CAN GET KEY SWITCH WITHOUT START POSITION but JUST BECAUSE IT HAS ONE DES NOT MEAN YOU HAVE TO USE IT YOU CAN STILL USE A PUSH BOTTOM HELL YOU COULD HOOKUP BOTH FOR THAT MATTER
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
I want to thank everyone for the help.
I went out to go install the new starter and decided to look around to see how i could get this panel off and thats when i discovered the final drive housing was cleanly split on both sides and had been that way for a long time due to the amount of rust. With all that exposure into the elements for that long and how severe the repairs are, i have talked to the couple who sold it to me and they agreed to do a full refund since neither of us were aware of how bad the repairs were to this machine.
I am still looking around for another crawler because i want to own one and im not gunna give up just cause this one didnt work out.
Hopefully soon i can be back on here talking to all you helpful people about some more repairs.
Thanks
I went out to go install the new starter and decided to look around to see how i could get this panel off and thats when i discovered the final drive housing was cleanly split on both sides and had been that way for a long time due to the amount of rust. With all that exposure into the elements for that long and how severe the repairs are, i have talked to the couple who sold it to me and they agreed to do a full refund since neither of us were aware of how bad the repairs were to this machine.
I am still looking around for another crawler because i want to own one and im not gunna give up just cause this one didnt work out.
Hopefully soon i can be back on here talking to all you helpful people about some more repairs.
Thanks
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